Tenacious Sharpening Trouble

Q

Quapukulu

Joined
Feb 13, 2014
Messages
237
I am new at sharpening. I've never owned an guiding system, Spyderco Sharpmaker or anything like that. I've decided to learn freehand right from the beginning. Here's my system...

1. Just some course and medium stone I picked up at Ace Hardware.
2. 1000 grit sharpening (JIS)
3. 6000 grit (JIS)
4. 12000 grit (JIS)
5. Leather strop with CrO if necessary.

I have absolutely no problem doing my Mora's, Opinels, Schrades, Boker trees... those are all fairly low angle. They are all mirror edges and I can make it to step 5 with no problem. What is killing me is my Spyderco Tenacious. I was told it was supposed to be done at 35 degrees? It can shred/rip paper after the 1000 grit, but the 6000 grit completely destroys the edge. What am I doing wrong? I've been using all King's, because I don't want to wear out my Shapton's on my stubborn Tenacious. Can anyone just throw up thoughts? I am aware this has probably been answered millions of times...
 
35 inclusive?

Unless you sharpen straight razors there is no reason for the 12k.

After the 1k use edge trailing strokes on the 6k until sharp. From the 6k stone you should be able to easily shave hair from your arm, if not you did something incorrectly. Use your better stones too, it will make sharpening easier.
 
Its your technique.

Invest in a Spyderco Sharpmaker .

My tenacious is shaving sharp because of it.


I learned freehand in the 70s and practiced alot on swapmeet knives.
As time progressed I got real good but then I found a Sharp Marker in the late 80s
and havent looked back.

Get one. Be happy.
 
Thanks Uxo2 for the recommendation. I'll go for it once I can scrap $70. Should it be necessarily that I pick up an 8000 grit and 30,000 Shapton for the fun of it? Or am I just throwing money away?
 
RampageRhino69 said:
Thanks Uxo2 for the recommendation. I'll go for it once I can scrap $70. Should it be necessarily that I pick up an 8000 grit and 30,000 Shapton for the fun of it? Or am I just throwing money away?
Click to expand...

That is entirely up to you.
 
Sharpmaker, wicked edge, edge pro, DMT aligner, lanskys, free hand, etc. Their all roads which lead to the same destination, a sharp knife. Pick the path that works for you, were all different and prefer different things.

For me I started with the DMT Aligner as I wanted to learn free hand and wanted the guided setup as well to help me learn. So I've been using that solely for a few months now and I just recently picked up Norton Economy stones, both silicon carbide and india. My next purchase will be one of three things strop compound, dmt EFF 4in, or 3m wet or dry sandpaper from the lowest to highest grit. I just get what I think will feel right and that my funds allow me to do, I suggest you do the same.

And lets be honest here we were all throwing money away on sharpening equipment (only a few exceptions to this in my opinion for people who require more). A basic combo stone like one of the nortons I have just picked up and a few pieces of paper will get you pretty far. On either stone you could get a knife to easily slice through newspaper which is about as far as you need to go in a practical sense as even that type of edge will be lost rather quickly in use so there isn't too much of a point to go further besides you want to.

But were all enablers here supporters the others bad habits and with that in mind may I suggest working on your technique before adding more steps to the process. Though if you wanted the sharpmaker just know there is a learning curve to that too, but not as much in comparison to normal free hand sharpening. Though I hear it's quite effective in maintaining your edge, not so much in putting one on (reprofiling, or extremely dull).
 
Welcome to the forum!

Please check the FAQ/Sticky thread on this subforum, to give you idea on what each step is meant to do.
1000 grit JWS should result in paper slicing sharpness if done correctly. Going to higher grit is only getting the edge more polished.

You may also want to check knifenut's Youtube (MrEdgy81) and HeavyHanded (Neuman2010). They're both having good videos that provide insight on what a technique/stroke meant to achieve, how to detect burr, etc.

I have a Resilience, and the steel (8Cr13MoV) is not very hard to sharpen. In fact, I have only so far used HeavyHanded's Washboard + compound to maintain it.

Lastly, this thread is also useful: www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/963298
 
Last edited:
Thanks Chris and Bob. I have no problem cutting paper from the yellow-pages... it's just the Tenacious. I'm glad to be learning from y'all.
 
RampageRhino69 said:
Thanks Chris and Bob. I have no problem cutting paper from the yellow-pages... it's just the Tenacious. I'm glad to be learning from y'all.
Click to expand...

In that case it is possible the edge is 'burnt' from factory sharpening. Try sharpen it often, once you reach the good steel it should hold up well.
 
Yes it's a bad picture.
But when yours is ready.
The edge can be polished mirror bright.

Teanacious with G10 Foilage Green scales.

IMG_20140317_141303_zps1f5aebc0.jpg
 
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