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Strobengh

Joined
Dec 15, 2006
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Well, after our ice storms, we had some tree limbs that needed to be taken care of.
So out came my 16.5" WWII.

The only tree that really needed attention was my apple tree.
Any one ever tried to cut apple wood? I've been very impressed with it's strength.

Anyway, cutting through 4" branches of FROZEN applewood, and 1" of ice covering the apple wood, it only took 6 chops to get through it.
And those were tired, gloved handed chops.
After chopping through the ice-applewood, the blade sliced through paper like it did when I first got it.

I am thoroughly impressed with how the blade performed.

The only problem is the horn handle . . . I oiled the horn handle on my WWII and BAS, but they are all cracking. The WWII developed a new hairline crack while I was outside (granted, it is 10 degrees outside . . .).
Does Horn usually crack during winter? Is it best to epoxy it, or replace the handles?

And sorry, no pics . . . I know, I know . . . but it was almost dark when I finally got outside.

Overall, the blade on the knife is absolutely incredible, but I'm not sold on horn handles for heavy users.
2 :thumbup:
 
Superglue does wonders on horn and chandan. Let it seep way into the crack. May take multiple applications (and then I have to hide the evidence that I've glued my fingers together again before my wife makes fun of me:p ) When the final application is almost dry, a superficial sanding sets some powdered handle material into the superglue to hide the repair.

As for cracking in the first place - It gets extremely dry here during the winter so I seal all my handles soon after receiving them. I have always used Ballistol on everything, but have been converted to Watco for most handles as I like the idea of the varnish permanently sealing the pores beneath the surface of the handle. I strip the surface wax and polishing rouge and lightly sand when needed. I apply the Watco thinned to 50% the first couple hours and then at full strength for another ten (overkill but I want to give it every opportunity to soak in deep). Then in a few days to a couple weeks I wet it down again with the Watco for a couple hours. Seems to work.
Lloyd
 
I'm in dry Colorado. I have problems with horn cracking, but like westfork, superglue does wonders.
 
I use 4 coats of Watco, and don't bother to thin it. I let the first few coats soak through for a longer time than the instructions suggest.
Be sure to wipe off any excess.

I have used this to prevent cracking on all horn handled khukuris. It works.
I have had handles treated like this for years without cracking. You can use the stuff on wood, and it will work as well. If you want a more durable finish for wood, you can top off with Watco wipe on poly. I originally posted my results with Watco some time ago.

The original suggestion about Watco came from a bladesmith - Erik Estus....if I recall his name correctly. He uses it on all types of horn.
 
Sometimes the stress of chopping will crack the handle.

Where is it cracking?

If it stress cracking it will be on the top of the handle near the bolser on the side near the spine.
 
hollowdweller said:
Sometimes the stress of chopping will crack the handle.

Where is it cracking?

If it stress cracking it will be on the top of the handle near the bolser on the side near the spine.
Click to expand...

My BAS cracked at the top of the handle, near the bolster.
But, it has never been used.

My WWII cracked along the length of the inside of the handle before I used it, and after using it a 1/2" crack formed near the bolster.
 
Yes, Hollow, and one of the horn handles you gave up on is in my compound and beloved by my sons. Superglue stopped it dead in its tracks. It was a BAS Hollow had lost patience with. A really neat blade too.

But Horn can get away from you. I hope we're not seeing a return of improperly cured horn. That would not be a good thing.

Normal horn will last and last. In Eastern Montana the air gets very dry. I use lanolin on horn. Some use olive oil, or mineral oil. I've had some cracks, but no failures. (knock on wood) I like horn and I like wood too.


munk
 
So, what is the going rate to put a micarta handle on a WWII and/or BAS?

My WWII has 6 different cracks, all over 1". I think it's time to get a new handle on it . . . I'd like stabilized wood, Micarta, or something else that won't crack/shrink.
 
My BAS has about 6 cracks- but I filled them with superglue, and everything stopped. Works fine. You keep refilling them till they are level or shut.


If I were replacing a grip I'd go wood, because that is doable to my craft level.


munk
 
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