Testing Stabilized Wood

Jesse Smith

Jesse Smith

Joined
Dec 2, 2013
Messages
163
Couldn't find anything by searching the site, so here's a question for y'all...

I just got a variety of misc. handle blanks/blocks. Most of which is supposed to be stabilized. However, knowing that it is recommended to get stabilized wood from a reputable source, and having had a bad experienced with a piece of "stabilized" wood from ebay, I'm leery of the quality.

So, I'm wondering exactly what characteristics/qualifications I should be expecting out of stabilized wood of the knife handle variety. Is there any tests I can do to determine it suitableness?

Thanks for your time and the great site!
 
Yeah, I have had the same problem with some ebay "stabilized" wood. I "test" it by finishing it and seeing how it polishes. If not a good finish, furture pieces from the ebay seller in question get sent to K&G for proper restabilizing.
 
Stabilized wood has a unique smell when worked, it does not compress easily and most of the time feels very heavy and dense.
 
WSSI, K&G and a local Texas source are the only three companies that I can say do great unquestionable work.
 
A simple test for stabilized wood is to take a block and saw the ends with a fresh cut in the table saw no need to sand it (you just want to expose fresh end grain).
Weigh the block on a good gram scale.
Put the block in water for an hour ( weight it to stay under).
Take out and dry off. Weigh it again.
Place standing on the end grain on a pile of paper towels or blotter paper. Leave there for an hour.
Remove, wipe off, and weigh the block again.

If stabilized well, it should return to somewhere near the dry weight. If not stabilized, it should still be a good bit heavier. You will also notice that the paper got a big ring of moisture from the stabilized wood as the water drained and wicked out of the sealed wood grain. Unstabilized wood will drain out much less water.

This test isn't perfect for all stabilized woods ( especially heavy and dense woods), but works really well on lighter and looser grained woods.

A test I have not tried, but read about was the "Magic Marker test". Sand a side surface of the block ( not end grain) to 400 grit. Run a wide tip marker across it one stripe. Lightly sand the surface again. If stabilized, the marker will have penetrated only a little bit, and sand away fairly easily. If unsdtabilized, the marker will have gone much deeper into the wood. I would guess that a control piece of unstabilized wood would show how much the difference is.
 
Quick 'n dirty test - put wood in water. If sinks, it's either stabilized or doesn't really need stabilizing. Grind a bit, should have a MUCH different smell than plain wood from the resin in wood.
 
Stacy hit it right on, if it wont absorb moisture it's most likely been stabilized. Key phrase "most likely", there are some woods that are so oily they wont suck water for quite a while, Cocobolo is one is one that comes to mind. I prefer to do my own stabilizing since its relatively easy. There is a product called "Wood Juice" that works rather well and a quart goes a long way if your just using for scales. I also do some turnings and use it on large hardwood blanks. Not a spokesmen just a satisfied customer.
 
In my experience, K&G does a much better job than WSSI. I get a much better polish on the same material with K&G.
 
Ken H> said:
Quick 'n dirty test - put wood in water. If sinks, it's either stabilized or doesn't really need stabilizing. Grind a bit, should have a MUCH different smell than plain wood from the resin in wood.
Click to expand...

I think a lot of stabilized woods will float.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'll definitely try what Stacy suggested.

What about the grain swelling? If a piece of wood is stabilized, will the grain swell if I grind into it a bit then submerged? Or would that be an indication that it just had some sealer soaked into the outside of the block and not really stabilized?
 
Jesse Smith said:
Thanks for the info guys. I'll definitely try what Stacy suggested.

What about the grain swelling? If a piece of wood is stabilized, will the grain swell if I grind into it a bit then submerged? Or would that be an indication that it just had some sealer soaked into the outside of the block and not really stabilized?
Click to expand...

If the piece absorbs moisture it is probably not stabilized or done properly. That's not to say you cant take a piece of stabilized wood and make it suck in moisture. Most of the products used are water based or mixed with water to penetrate the wood. What the process does it to replace the moisture in the cells of the wood with the stabilization product then cure to prohibit the piece from absorbing any more moisture keeping it stable. Here is a good product I use for scales and even large blocks if you want to try some yourself.
 
Well. that is sort of how it works.

In stabilization. the wood needs to be dry to below 10% moisture content. It is better if below 7%. The wood is submersed in the stabilizing resin, and a strong vacuum is drawn and held fo a long time. This boils out any remaining water in the cells and fibers. Then the chamber is put under pressure. Several hundred pounds is the norm. The pressure forces the resin into the fibers and completely through the wood. ASfter that, the wood is taken out and allowed to drain off most of the excess...then the resin is catalyzed. Usually heat is the catalyst. Once catalyzed, the wood fibers are impregnated with the acrylic resin, and won't re-absorb moisture from getting wet or the humidity. This prevents or minimizes swelling and shrinking...which is a big problem with many woods. Holes, eyes, pores, and tubes of the grain are not necessarily filled, but the wood around them won't soak in water.

The acrylic resin in the wood polishes like plastic...because that is pretty much what it is. It makes need of any finish usually unnecessary. Avoid heat, sand to a high grit, buff lightly with matchless white for a glass like shine.
 
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