- Joined
- Oct 28, 1999
- Messages
- 1,563
This past weekend I built a Combat Special strictly for testing. No final finish, etc....just wanted to test blade strength and handle construction. The handle and guard are all one piece of Micarta, held together with Corby screws and Acraglas.
The 1084 edge was up to shaving sharp and I pounded thru some 2X4's with no perceptible difference in the edge. I chopped thru a few other pieces of wood to test for sore spots on the handle. Cut some rope, leather, cardboard and did some stab testing too. It did real well.
This knife has a medium to fine tip...so I wanted to see if the tip would fail. I stabbed the blade into an old hard 2X4 about 1/2 deep. Gave it a few twists and it did okay so I repeated a stab to the same depth and gave it a sideways pry and lost about 1/8 of the tip. Examination of the break revealed a fine grain stucture....so I figure it was the geometry of the tip that caused it to fail. A tanto it is not.
I figured what the heck so I gave it some more abuse. Chopping into nails on the old 2X4. I expected to see chips but it did not....which I consider a pretty good sucess. The edge was not completely folding over either. Just slight deformation that sharpened out nicely.
I pounded with the spine of the knife against an old metal pole to see if I could damage the handle attachment by shock. Came thru fine here except for dings in the spine (blade is edge quenched so the spine is dead soft.
About 10 minutes on the grinder repaired the tip and I gave the knife the old Bagwell trick of drawing the tip, about 1/4 to 3/8", to a nice blue color with a torch. The result was the the tip held okay when I tested it again, although I cannot fully attribute the success as the temper draw....the tip was slightly thicker. That small section of the tip is also not too hateful on its edge...being softer and all.
Sorry for the lengthy post but I figured ya'll might like to share some info.
Greg Covington
Bladesmith
The 1084 edge was up to shaving sharp and I pounded thru some 2X4's with no perceptible difference in the edge. I chopped thru a few other pieces of wood to test for sore spots on the handle. Cut some rope, leather, cardboard and did some stab testing too. It did real well.
This knife has a medium to fine tip...so I wanted to see if the tip would fail. I stabbed the blade into an old hard 2X4 about 1/2 deep. Gave it a few twists and it did okay so I repeated a stab to the same depth and gave it a sideways pry and lost about 1/8 of the tip. Examination of the break revealed a fine grain stucture....so I figure it was the geometry of the tip that caused it to fail. A tanto it is not.
I figured what the heck so I gave it some more abuse. Chopping into nails on the old 2X4. I expected to see chips but it did not....which I consider a pretty good sucess. The edge was not completely folding over either. Just slight deformation that sharpened out nicely.
I pounded with the spine of the knife against an old metal pole to see if I could damage the handle attachment by shock. Came thru fine here except for dings in the spine (blade is edge quenched so the spine is dead soft.
About 10 minutes on the grinder repaired the tip and I gave the knife the old Bagwell trick of drawing the tip, about 1/4 to 3/8", to a nice blue color with a torch. The result was the the tip held okay when I tested it again, although I cannot fully attribute the success as the temper draw....the tip was slightly thicker. That small section of the tip is also not too hateful on its edge...being softer and all.
Sorry for the lengthy post but I figured ya'll might like to share some info.
Greg Covington
Bladesmith