Thanks Kismet

[TomFetter]

The sheath for my Sarge arrived in yesterday's mail, and is pretty much exactly what I want for a hard-use knife. The fit is a little tight 'round the guard, but nothing that some judicious tweaking won't relieve.

As my friend's now found some antler, I've got no excuse for not moving forwards on the Sarge re-handling job ... aside of course, from the various house renovations my wife wants me to spend quality time on first!

t.

 

[Kismet]

Tom?

If you saturate the leather with some oil (or even stain) during your customization process, and slip the knife in fully a few times, it will stretch the fibers and form to your Sarge. It will hold it securely. This is not a fast-draw tool.

Good luck with the handling.


You are most welcome. Left-handed sheath HAD to have been made for you. Let's call it kismet...er...fate. Yeah, fate.

 

[Steely_Gunz]

Think of all the "personal gain" Kismet could have amassed if he wasn't being so gul-dern nice to everyone I'm there's a lesson in there somewhere...or is it a song...maybe a joke...bumper sticker?..maybe a..

Good form, Kis:thumbup:

Jake

 

[Fiddleback]

My sarge knife is a little snug in the sheath. I love it. I took off the frog and carry the knife in the sheath in my jacket pocket. It wont fall out, and its easier to carry that way. Before that I was wondering how I was going to carry it. The frog on the belt loop thing is just not doable for me.

 

[TomFetter]

Did I mention that I've already trued up the bevels of the knife, making the main cutting edge into a Scandi grind? Honed and stropped, it cuts like a dream. Not unlike on the Corporal knife, I've also changed the profile of the back of the knife a bit, reducing the raised false edge to only about 1 1/2" near the tip. Wanted to have enough flat on the back of the knife to use a baton, while keeping some false edge for joint separation as in your original thinking. Once the new handle's on, I may add some filework to the back, to give my thumb some traction. But we'll see ... I'll let the knife decide.

T.

 

[Dave Rishar]

Don't be afraid to wet form those suckers with water, either. Cover your knife's blade with plastic wrap, briefly run water over the sheath from the faucet, insert the knife and press everything into place. Use a bone folder or your thumb to mold the leather to the knife's contours. Give it at least a few hours to dry before removing the knife.

Rough leather gets fairly waterproof and looks great after soaking up some Ballistol. (Hint, hint.)

 

[45-70]

Wet the sheath slightly, then gently insert the blade to where you want it to ride in the sheath. (I wrapped my blade in plastic wrap first).

Press the leather with your fingers to mold around the junction of blade and handle. Some people "bone" the leather at this point, hush bruise, they use a blunt tool to press the leather into the complex curves and funny joints to make it lock into the sheath better.

let it dry.

Another forum turned me onto snowseal, warm the leather sheath (I left the knife in to have a handle to turn it back and forth) with a blowdrier or a heat gun. Remember you aren't cooking a steak, the sheath should be warm to the touch. Use something to rub the snowseal into the sheath. I used a polishing bonnet, a rag wadded into a ball prehaps an inch in diameter, and rub the crap into the leather. When it quits absorbing warm the leather again. Continue until you have a uniform russet color.

Do not do as I did my first one and use paraffin wax. Do not do as I did and use said wax and continue using it until the leather would absorb no more. Do not do as I did and make an ugle sheath as above. It is hard to sheath the knife. It is hard to remove it. The leather itself is hard. It is noisy, but it will last forever I think, at least until I try to use it for a candle.

 

[Sylvrfalcn]

I treasure my Kismet made sheath, IMHO the only proper way to carry the knife he designed. Being a tinkerer, I modified mine, not externally, but internally. I cut out a good piece of raw hide, wet it, folded it over, and inserted it into the sheath as a blade guard/stiffener. Once everything was molded and dried back nice and stiff, I dyed and sealed the leather. Good mod, the sheath now acts like kydex, and I can unsheath/re-sheath the knife without having to take my eyes off of what I'm doing.

Sarge

 

[hollowdweller]

Bottom Line:

Kismet Rocks!!

:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

 

[Kismet]

turns out to be vegetable-tanned leather. Who knew?

They should be named "bugly sheaths," but they fit the purpose of the knife. The rivets are not only easier to use for construction, but reassure me that I won't slice through the sewn threads and damage my massive musculature.

All except mine, the original, have a belt sheath on them. Any one use it? I prefer the dangle hang, mostly because in season I want to be able to reach the sheath without lifting up my coat. It is also easier for me to clip/unclip a caribiner when I'm going out to hunt than to thread a sheath on my belt.

I'd imagine that's why the scandi/saami knives are dangle sheaths. Too many layers to mess with a belt mount.

Of course, the frog, used properly, is made to allow the user to slip out the scabbord out of it for convenience.

On the knife, as least one I've seen had a flimsy finger guard (a villager, I think), one which I could bend in my fingers. In snow, and with blood on my hands or the blade, I want protection from sliding into the cutting edge.

Wacherass.