Thanks Robert: Tip for Newbie Makers included

Crayola

Crayola

Joined
Sep 23, 1999
Messages
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Thanks to Robert Dockrell, my Magic Knot Knife project has been saved from sure doom!!!! I thought I found a way to ensure the front part of handle slabs would be identical and line up perfectly... THEY DID NOTHING OF THE SORT!!!! Not to mention that my handle pins were skewed off to an odd angle! I thought I had to scrap my Magic Knot Knife. (Here comes the tip) following Robert's instructions, I grabbed some chisels, a torch and, based on my own experience, I grabbed a hammer too. I locked the handle in a vice and headed the pins. I did this outside as the handle burned and smoked and smelled deadly!!! By the way, the handle is dymondwood. I know it ain't super duper carbon fiber or anything, and no I don't work for Frosts!!! I want it for the color combo with the kmagic knot... Anyways, I heated the pins which melted the epoxy around them and a tap with the hammer got them out. As for the scales, I smacked them with the hammer, and they promptly split!!!! There is NO scale left on the handle, and the blade is unscathed!! So, that is how to get scales off of blades! Oh, Robert told me a better way to make the scales even and line up which is, get this, even SIMPLER than what I tried!! Go figure! So, I'm ready to continue my Magic Knot Knofe project. When it is done you'll be seeing pics! Thanks Robert!

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"Come What May..."
 
To get the front ends of my handles to line up, I just clamp one slab on the tang and drill the holes, then clamp both slabs together and drill the holes thru the second slab. Then I drive pins into the holes and clamp the slabs together and then shape and clean up the front ends. How were you doing it???

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Howdy There....!
"Ditto" on L6steel's answer to your problem. I do the same thing for my handle slabs, drilling and shaping them. Also if you are going to use any spacer material, that is also the time to shape it. I use "super glue" the spacer material to the handle slabs and shape it with the slabs that way you have the perfect fit. Good Luck and keep trying.
"Possum"


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Thomas Clegg
 
Thanks L6 and Possum. I tried clamping both scales together and then the blade ontop of both scales and drilling through the whole lot: That didn't work at all. Robert told me do do something almost exactly as you two described. I must admit that I was just outside attempting this method and I messed up. I haven't got a drill press and I drilled the holes at angles and when I put the pins through I split the wood
frown.gif
I'll try again tomorrow. Oh, do you drill a 1/4" hole for a 1/4" pin, or what?

Thanks for the tips. Hey L6: Once my magic knot knife is done I'll be working on my other knife (the one I said I'd send you a pic of on the chat lines a few weeks ago). I can't wait to finish that one. It is of my own design and all. My Magic Knot Knife is a modification of Bob Engnath's design.

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"Come What May..."
 
I have a electric drill with a level bubble on the handle end. I also mounted a vise to the side of my workbench on one of the 4x4 legs. This one swivels and locks at an angle or horizontal. I used a level on the vise jaws to get them at a 90 deg level and marked the swivel part with a felt marker so I could always get the jaws back to a perfect horizontal level.
I drill my holes in my blade, using the vise in a horizontal position. Being sure to go slow. By keeping the bubble in the middle.
This way I know the drill is level and the blade is level.
I rough out my handle slabs.
Make sure they are flat on at least one side.
Clamp one to the underside of the blade.
Use the hole in the blade as a guide and drill thru the handle material.
Cut some pins and slide 1 or 2 into the holes.
Flip the blade over .
Clamp the other handle slab underneath.
Then use the top slab and blade to guide your drill.
After that remove the slabs and pin them together and rough shape them.
BE SURE to finish the front of the handle slabs before you glue them
biggrin.gif

You will find it next to impossible to finish the front of the handle once it is assembled.
Also finish the area of the blade in front of the handle slabs or you will have the same problemo!
Yes use a 1/4" bit for 1/4" pins.
If they fit too tight just sand them untill they are snug but can still be removed with a good tug.
Hope that helps.
Bob Hankins

[This message has been edited by bobH (edited 08-09-2000).]
 
You should actually use a bit larger drill for a 1/4" hole. I use a "F" drill and find that the fit is perfect and does not require that the pin be sanded.

Marcel
 
I have heard of the "F" bit thing before, however, that is the only letter/size bit correlation that I know. What letter bit goes with a 1/8" hole? 3/32"?

The only drill I have access to with a level is a cordless
frown.gif
I think busting that last pair of handle slabs will actually net me a small drill press from my father!!! It no big floor model, but it will drill a hole a lot straighter than I can!!!!

Thanks for the tips.

Karl

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"Come What May..."
 
Crayola next time you are at your favorite tool store ask them them for a drill bit chart. This displays all the drill bits available in order of size. If you are in Calgary, see Terry Mah at Century Sales. I am not sure but I think he hands them out for free (a promotional thing from a drill bit company).

Good luck,

Hugh

PS; you could do it like I do. Ream out the holes with a needle file/chainsaw file. I never remember to get the "letter" bits.

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President of Knifemakers Anonymous - "The sickness can be cured!" Call 1-800-cutfingers
 
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