The $15 Chopper That Could (MTech?)

inkynate

inkynate

Joined
Sep 4, 2010
Messages
2,900
I have a lot of folders and fixed blades, but didn't have a really large fixed blade apart from a machete. After reading some threads about choppers, I wanted to try one out. I generally don't mind paying for quality and most of my stuff is $100+, but for my first really large knife I decided to test the waters in the ultra cheap class.

I ordered the MTech USA MT-20-08s from my LKS. It was $15.90 out the door.

It dwarfs my RC-4:

28jwcax.jpg


Here are some approx specs:

Blade length: 9 3/4 in
Overall length: 16 in
Stock thickness: .157 in (4mm)
Grind height: 3/4 in
Blade width: 2 in
Weight: 19oz (23 w/ sheath)
Balances just in front of the guard, or right on the logo
Marked "440 Stainless"

In the rear grip, my hand is a full 3in behind the cutting edge.
The tip is very, very close in shape and thickness compared to the Para2.

I have only had this for a few days, but I got right down to business. Only complaint is that the handle scales came loose and started to rattle immediately. This was not unexpected, as even some of the product descriptions mention that "handles are loose," but it appears there is no adhesive at all, just the two pins holding the scales in place. I would have gladly paid an extra dollar or two to have the scales glued on!

Undeterred by a little rattle, I pressed on. I will fix them up later.

Batoning, no issues, even with blows falling on the thin tip:

2dvrgrc.jpg


Chopping on seasoned firewood, no issues. Actually preferred it to a Fiskars X7 hatchet:

w814p0.jpg


Shredded and chopped up a can. Take that, stupid can!:

mhevzk.jpg


I did a fair amount more chopping than I can show. It also worked well on brush and small branches. Apart from the handles, all the grinds on the blade are nicely finished and even. The edges around the guard, choil, and spine were all a little sharp, making it somewhat uncomfortable when I choked up to strip some bark and whittle with it. I fixed that up easily with a file. Only took a few minutes and the knife is much more comfortable now.

So far it's held up fine, excellent really, for a $16 knife. Easily surpassed my expectations. No visible damage to the as-boxed edge during use. It still slices paper just like it did before I started. It was decently sharp out of the box, but below shaving. It should perform even better after some work on the bevels and re-sharpening.

2vknkvp.jpg


Not trying to say it's the greatest thing out there. I suppose the next time I take it out it might fail on the first whack. Still, I feel like it performed well for what it is.

Thanks for reading.
 
Thanks for the informative review. I've been looking at MTech blades and wondering about the quality. They specify "Stainless Steel" but I didn't see a specific grade alloy. Affixing the handle slabs securely should present no problem. I'd actually prefer to do it myself and know it's done strongly.
 
I feel like BF can always use thorough reviews on cheap knives. Good job TC. :thumbup:
 
Glad you guys found it useful, thanks.

Vorpal or anyone else,

I figure it won't be too difficult to secure the scales, but I haven't ever had to handle a job like this before. If you want to share how you'd approach it, I'd be glad to listen.

Assume it goes something like:

Punch out pins
Apply (X?) type glue/epoxy
Put back together quickly
Clamp until dry

...but I'm sketchy on the details.
 
I have very little faith in "off brand" folding knives, but by eliminating moving parts from the equation, I think it's possible for most manufacturers to produce pretty decent fixed blades. I figure my MTech "Outlander" machete can't be any worse than the Gerber Gator Jr. that I've been using up to this point for general yard use.
 
To affix the scales:

I'd buy some 1/8" stainless steel rod. With the original pins and scales in place, I'd drill two 1/8" holes to each side and ahead of the pin closest to the guard and two more holes to each side and behind the original rear pin. Cobalt alloy bits would probably work best.

Since I don't have a drill press and would be drilling free-hand, I'd start with the smallest bits possible and work up to 1/8". Clamping the knife down or using a padded vise would help a lot.

After the holes are drilled, measure insert an uncut rod through one scale. Push it through the tang until it's flush with the surface of the opposite scale. Then mark the rod where you inserted it. Cut the rod. Ending up with a little too long is probably better than too short. Do this with all four holes.

Remove slabs, all pins and apply a degreaser.

Using a generous quantity of good quality, slow hardening paste epoxy, glue the scales to the tang and replace all the pins coated with epoxy. I would put glue on the pins and in the holes too. Clamp together (spring clamps are good) and let harden. Then sand off all the excess glue and grind any excess pin length flat as you want it.

I once put G10 scales on an old knife for a friend, using the above method. That knife is still going strong.

=========================================================================

The strength of the glue bond with the handle slabs depends on what kind of plastic or wood they are made of. If they are polypropylene, polyethylene, or oily hardwood, epoxy won't work well. I would check by removing a slab, applying a small dab of epoxy on the inside. If it sticks fast, which would be great, you can easily whittle it flat again before proceeding with the job.

I might or might not place the pins differently if I could physically examine the knife. I know others will have different methods which would work. I hope this helps or gives you other ideas which might be useful.
 
Last edited:
That's a great summary, I appreciate you taking the time to write it up. Thank you.

I didn't even think about adding pins. Seems like the way to go though, considering the intended uses for the knife. Guess I should've mentioned above that the handles are listed as Pakkawood, which is basically a hardwood micarta (phenolic resin).
 
vorpalblade said:
To affix the scales:

I'd buy some 1/8" stainless steel rod. With the original pins and scales in place, I'd drill two 1/8" holes to each side and ahead of the pin closest to the guard and two more holes to each side and behind the original rear pin. Cobalt alloy bits would probably work best.

Since I don't have a drill press and would be drilling free-hand, I'd start with the smallest bits possible and work up to 1/8". Clamping the knife down or using a padded vise would help a lot.

After the holes are drilled, measure insert an uncut rod through one scale. Push it through the tang until it's flush with the surface of the opposite scale. Then mark the rod where you inserted it. Cut the rod. Ending up with a little too long is probably better than too short. Do this with all four holes.

Remove slabs, all pins and apply a degreaser.

Using a generous quantity of good quality, slow hardening paste epoxy, glue the scales to the tang and replace all the pins coated with epoxy. I would put glue on the pins and in the holes too. Clamp together (spring clamps are good) and let harden. Then sand off all the excess glue and grind any excess pin length flat as you want it.

I once put G10 scales on an old knife for a friend, using the above method. That knife is still going strong.

=========================================================================

The strength of the glue bond with the handle slabs depends on what kind of plastic or wood they are made of. If they are polypropylene, polyethylene, or oily hardwood, epoxy won't work well. I would check by removing a slab, applying a small dab of epoxy on the inside. If it sticks fast, which would be great, you can easily whittle it flat again before proceeding with the job.

I might or might not place the pins differently if I could physically examine the knife. I know others will have different methods which would work. I hope this helps or gives you other ideas which might be useful.
Click to expand...

Other than glue, what would keep the pins in place? The reason I ask is because you indicated that putting glue on the pins is just your preference, and as such, makes it sound like it's not really necessary.
 
jac_solar said:
Other than glue, what would keep the pins in place? The reason I ask is because you indicated that putting glue on the pins is just your preference, and as such, makes it sound like it's not really necessary.
Click to expand...

Putting glue on the pins and in the pin holes is essential because it holds the pins in permanently. Epoxy adheres well to Pakkawood handle slabs and the steel tang. The ones I put in on a friend's knife show no sign of coming loose. That knife has been used hard.
 
You can get a drill press stand for cheap that will let you your drill like a press and keep your drilling perpendicular to the tang. If you use 1/8" pinstock your holes need to be slightly over 1/8" Texas knifemakers supply used to have a nice shop chart of drill and tap sizes. Search "glue wars" here on BF for couple of threads on glue selection....
 
Thanks for the tips. I have access to a full shop with a drill press. I will go that route since I'm planning to add pins now, rather than just epoxy the existing stuff together.

Should be educational and a good knife to get some practice on. I was also thinking about making some custom scales for a BK-15 I have.
 
The drill press is your friend:) I like the holes to be tight enough that I have to lightly tap the pins in with a hammer. I feel the glue bond grips even tighter that way.
 
Apophis:-- Thanks again for the great review and photos. I would enjoy seeing a photo after you fasten the handle together.
 
Absolutely. I'll get a few shots of the process too if I can. I plan to update this thread as I use it more as well, good or bad.

It's fun to be the first person to do a write up of something, even if it's nothing spectacular. All of my others knives had lots of reviews and commentary about them on the forums already, so I didn't have much motivation before.
 
I took a couple more pics to show how similar the tip on the MTech is to my Para2. I think this is an interesting part of the design. Provided that it holds up, the fine tip should allow the knife to be pretty versatile.

Nearly identical over the last inch or so:

351d5jd.jpg


MTech on the right:

2mw9pqt.jpg
 
Yes. Tapered and very pointy for a large wilderness blade. More versatile for the times when that shape is needed but also more fragile than a stouter design.

If MTech mentions they use 440 blade steel it is probably 440B or 440A. Each lower in carbon than the more highly touted 440C. Properly heat treated 440B (and 440A even more so) should be a little softer and tougher than 440C but would need sharpening more frequently. Not necessarily a bad thing if edge holding is not a priority. Randall uses 440B, presumably for the extra toughness.
 
I agree that is is probably A or B, rather than 440C. In a blade this size though, it seems like most people would put toughness and ease of sharpening over edge holding. There was still less blunting than expected though during the couple of hours that I was hacking away.

Jeepster,

I ordered this through my local knife shop. Can't name them as they are not a paid dealer here. The MT2008s isn't hard to find online, but shipping will probably add at least $10 to the price since it's so heavy. I try to support my LKS anyway, but on this one it was definitely the way to go. Not that $10 is a lot of money, but I didn't want to pay 67% more to have it delivered when I could just pick it up a few miles from my house.
 
Back when I was a teen aside from my USMC Kabar my most abused knife (and when I say abused, think of an immature 14yr old and a knife and you'll get an idea) was a cheap $10-$20 Made in Pakistan W49 style bowie. Blade itself could not take much of an edge but it chopped like a mutha and survived being used as a throwing knife as well as other stuff I wouldn't dare put even my best knives through today. While nowdays I tend to stay away from cheap no name brand knives I cant deny occasionally you do find a diamond among the junk knives. Wish I still had that old bowie.
 
Apophis:-- You may have thought of this already but it might be easier to clean and glue the original scales and pins and add the new holes and pins afterwards. Once the epoxy hardens and the original scales and pins are locked in place, positioning the holes for the new pins could be done with more precision.... Just a thought.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top