The Axe Gauge in Relation to High Centreline

[Chignecto Woodsman]

I'm making a new axe gauge and I noticed how the middle portion of the edge conforms exactly to the Forest Service axe gauge. However, the heel and toe portions only conform for the first quarter inch or so. This tapering occurs around the 1" mark from the heel and toe. I assume this is normal (that the first 1/4" to 1/2" is the most important for strength) but would like to hear your thoughts on it.

The gauge has the FS standard and the straight angles used in Cook's The Ax Book. I'm starting to cut wood now for the season but will mostly be working with frozen wood. I know Tuatahi recommends the chisel grind for frozen woods, and that's mainly what I've used in the past.

Any thoughts on grinds? This axe seems a little thinner than some of my others on one edge, and pretty similar to my other Maine axes but with perhaps slightly wider taper at the toe and heel (ie. the taper to toe and heel starts earlier).

 

[awestib]

I don't know too much about axes yet but repeatedly I have seen/heard that there should be a convex grid towards the edge all along as well as a convex taper from heel to toe meaning the thickest and heaviest part of the axe edge should be the point that is furthest away from the user.

 

[Square_peg]

I leave the heel and toe at a slightly wider bevel than the center. Those areas take the most abuse and are most prone to damage. It cuts a little less efficiently this way but it saves the axes from repeated sharpenings.

 

[Chignecto Woodsman]

I guess chisel isn't the right term, since it implies 'flat' as in knives. I just mean that it is convexed but relatively uniform in width across the bevel from heel to toe. Not like a banana grind where you take down a lot of centre material behind the bevel, and I guess extend the bevel in a moon shape.

Square_peg, do you think this area of the bevel is primarily what causes or prevents chipping? As in the chip would not likely develop from being thin behind the bevel, but rather from the edge itself; a 30 degree bevel at 1/8" and 15 at half an inch (if I remember correctly). I think this makes sense.

Now that I look closer the bevel is slightly thicker at the toe, but about the same as the centre at the heel.

 

[Square_peg]

I think what you're talking about, a chisel grind is also sometimes called a radial grind. Uniform across the edge unlike a banana grind.

http://www.tuatahiaxes.com/axegrinds.html

What Tuatahi calls 'chisel' I call radial. Within the radial set of grinds you can have it either Scandi or rolled. Scandi is better for wood carving and rolled is more durable for chopping or splitting.

Square_peg, do you think this area of the bevel is primarily what causes or prevents chipping? As in the chip would not likely develop from being thin behind the bevel, but rather from the edge itself; a 30 degree bevel at 1/8" and 15 at half an inch (if I remember correctly). I think this makes sense.

Yes. That's what I'm talking about. The toe is especially vulnerable and will most benefit from leaving a little extra meat on it. A point in the center of the axe is supported by steel on both sides of it - toe-ward and heel-ward. A point at the heel or toe is supported only on one side and so is inherently weaker. Plus the toe is often closest to the ground and most likely to strike something other than wood.