Recommendation? The best Dulo knife for nordic use

K

Knifegrabber

Joined
Apr 3, 2020
Messages
28
Hello,

I am looking to buy knife for outdoor use in the nordics. I have so far heard of Dulo and while I am fully open to other makers, I focus this question around Dulo steels. Please do make suggestions for other choices as well.

My wish list:
-13cm full-tang stainless steel blade, 6mm thick. I could go 5mm too.
-convex geometry like in MZ A1 (or I just soften the scandi edges)
-handle fully covered, no steel in contact with the hand.
-metallic fingerguard (cold as f but I rather have it)
-blade extruded out the back of the handle (makes for a very good fire steel striker)

So that out of the way, here are few questions:

Which steel should I pick? My main focus to get is the best stainless steel that takes batoning at below freezing temps. Stainless is my choice because it does not rust. I have a carbon knife that I am able to usually keep spotless but it really is kind of tricky sometimes.

Which handle material makes the best thermal insulator?
Should I go for Micarta or stabilized wood? Or something other?

I talked about these with Svetlozar but he is a busy man and could not give me definitive answers and I cannot really interpret them to make them more useful to me.

Here are the steels offered by Dulo:
ZJPLavi.png

oycjLU3.png
 
I love cpm3v.

I jave not had any staining issues what so ever on mine, and it is not a polishes finish.

Micarta for the handle if you are planning on batoning. It is very very tough.

I would recommend reading up on the steels.

Knifesteelnerds.com is possibly the best, most scientific information wirh regards to steel properties, hardness levels, strength, edge retention etc.




Steel you did not mention that is very strong in stainless is AEBL.

I have a hunter and a neck knife in this steel from cusrom makers and love it. Extremely easy to sharpen, decent edge retention, while still being strong!!
 
Thanks a thousand times for the comments.

But what about harder steels, as if the blade thickness is enough, does it really have to be a particularly strong steel? If done right the force applies to the whole height of the blade. Thickness of course makes it not bend as not to give up and give out a weak point for the force to concentrate on.

I have tried learning about different steels but it is a long journey.

I too pondered on cpm3v, I have read pretty much only good about it. And understood that a custom maker can bring out the best out of that steel with good HT.
I now strongly think of taking it. According to youtube reviews it develops rust but it never lets rust to penetrate it. So it can really take moisture without much concern. To say it, good enough for me.

I will order the blade with these specs:
-blade length of 13cm, MZ A1 style (saber convex grind. Finish - satin)
-metallic fingerguard that extends on the handle not much at all (so that the index finger is not pressed onto it when gripped by default, so more like a metallic cover on the finger guard to cover it from possible minor blows)
-full tang, extruded. I noticed the extruded tang makes excellent sparks, so please keep the corner the way it suits for it the best.
-Micarta grips, Olive drab colored or near it, and so that the tang is completely hidden inside of it.

I went to knifesteelnerds also, but I watched this video representing different knife steels and it seems AEBL and CPM3V are very close.

.....Few minutes passed
I have already chosen Dulo as I have inspected that guy's work and talked to him, knowing he knows what I want.
I just sent my order for the knife to him!

Thanks again everybody!
 
Never heard of Dulo Knives.
They look cool and I especially like how many steel options they have for their blades.
 
I’ve never heard of this maker. I’ll have to check them out. Thanks.

To your question about the harder stainless steels. At the length and thickness of blade you’re looking at, none of the steels you listed will likely break in half or anything in normal use if made by someone who knows how to make good knives. The issue is what’s going on at the edge. Hard stainless steels can tend to be less stable under rough use at lower edge angles then non-stainless steels. That’s one of the reasons people tend to shy away from them. There’s been a few threads here and there on the topic of there not being a stainless out there that can compete in toughness to the higher end non-stainless like 3v.

I wish I could help you with the steel choice. I haven’t used any of the higher hardness stainless steels. I’m solidly in the sandvik steel camp for my outdoor knife. Edge holding and high hardness aren’t something I like in that role as I already carry a high hardness non-stainless edc. For me a more easily sharpened and tough knock around blade is a better paring. Currently that’s a 12c27 mora companion.

Enjoy the new knife.
 
I am very pleased with the Dulo Knives, I have. Steel treatment and finitions are excellent and almost everything can be asked to Dulo: A knife (DBK model) with a 13.5 cm scandivex blade, Vanadis 4 extra, 63 hrc . The V4E is tough and wear resistant (quite similar to cpm-4v). Sharpening can be made with diamond and ceramic rods. Another knife, a puuko with a blade of 11.5 cm, K390 steel, 64 hrc. This blade (saber) is agressive and stays sharp for a very long time, but a diamond stone is absolutely necessary for sharpening. I am considering now a Dulo OKK model with a blade of 14.5 cm in cpm-3v, flat grind, which will be easier to sharpen with ceramic.
 
Thanks. I feel the CPM3V is the best steel for the knife I need but would really like some harder steel for edge.

That said, in nature most things are much softer than steel so a very hard blade might not show much better cutting ability anyways.

A hybrid / layered steel would be very cool, with CPM3V sandwiching some very hard stainless metal.
 
Knifegrabber said:
Hello,

I am looking to buy knife for outdoor use in the nordics. I have so far heard of Dulo and while I am fully open to other makers, I focus this question around Dulo steels. Please do make suggestions for other choices as well.

My wish list:
-13cm full-tang stainless steel blade, 6mm thick. I could go 5mm too.
-convex geometry like in MZ A1 (or I just soften the scandi edges)
-handle fully covered, no steel in contact with the hand.
-metallic fingerguard (cold as f but I rather have it)
-blade extruded out the back of the handle (makes for a very good fire steel striker)

So that out of the way, here are few questions:

Which steel should I pick? My main focus to get is the best stainless steel that takes batoning at below freezing temps. Stainless is my choice because it does not rust. I have a carbon knife that I am able to usually keep spotless but it really is kind of tricky sometimes.

Which handle material makes the best thermal insulator?
Should I go for Micarta or stabilized wood? Or something other?

I talked about these with Svetlozar but he is a busy man and could not give me definitive answers and I cannot really interpret them to make them more useful to me.

Here are the steels offered by Dulo:
ZJPLavi.png

oycjLU3.png
Click to expand...
Personally I would go with Elmax all day long !! Ridiculous impact strength and in cold weather, this is important !!
 
I hope this is not an unwanted necro, but felt like I needed to finish this thread which was started a year ago.

Because Dulo informed me that the knife is ready!!!

My order specifications:
-blade length of 13cm, CPM3V, MZ A1 style; saber convex grind. Finish: satin for body, the edge part mirrored.
-metallic fingerguard that extends on the handle not much at all (so that the index finger is not pressed onto it when gripped by default, so more like a metallic cover on the finger guard to cover it from possible minor blows)
-full tang, extruded. I noticed the extruded tang makes excellent sparks, so please keep the corner the way it suits for it the best. (no need to round any corners there)
-Micarta grips, Olive drab colored or near it, and so that the tang is completely hidden inside of it to increase insulation from cold.

Video:

Pictures:
1drv.ms

MZ A13

Folder
1drv.ms
 
dulo did a wonderful job on that - it looks great

and as for necro... lol, it was only a month or 2, which can hardly even be called necro when the usual is 10 years ;)
 
He will be mailing it on Monday, dying to try it out.. Pretty stoked about it, just said to Dulo that I have never thought of collecting knives (I have just few but they are in regular use) but his works could truly be something to gather more of, just for show, being both functional (quality steel, useful blade geometry) and stellar-looking esthetics which hits the bullseye for me.
I imagine this one will not be so beautiful for long but for sure it will never be neither dull or broken :)
 
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