Recommendation? the best/right way to peen a slot closed

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I've got a slot that I milled out but I'm a hair off and that won't give me the journeyman class fit I want. What is the best way to peen this closed a few thousands?

I've tried peening before but never really been happy with the results.
I've used a rounded punch in the past when needed.

thanks

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I am having the same issue with a knife i am currently making. I was thinking silver solder?
 
I don't like to use a punch for that, I find that a small ball peen hammer with a polished ball end will do a nice job of planishing the sides of the slot back in a little, then drive the guard back on, then grind the face clean again. Too small a radius on your tool will give you little deep dents, when what you want is smooth well-overlapping planishing that develops a fairly thick mushroom over into the slot, without needing to grind so deep upon cleanup that the sought effect is negated.
Also it helps to begin the process a little away from the slot, and then encroach upon the edge of the slot with another pass of strikes. This will help to push a bit more metal where you want it to go. Beginning right on the edge of the slot all the way around can promote only a thin rim of metal that might not be enough, or may grind away when re-flattening the face.
 
I rounded the head of a finish nail punch and use that to "chase" (I think that is the right term) along the edge of the slot. This works but can be a pita because you will obviously put divots in the guard and have to resand it flat. When you do that you can sand past the part you peened and the slot is too wide again. I've got it to work but it can take a couple of tries. I learned this from Kevin Cashen, though when I watched him do it, he did it once then sanded it down and it fit perfectly... Go figure.

In the end I think the best way is just cut the slot perfect the first time. Easy right? :)

-Clint
 
I use a punch but it's not real round. I generally mill it flat after to keep it square and parallel also I find it easier to just tickle the bottom of the deepest mark in the mill and if you notice when milling you're losing your expanded surface you can peen some more right in the mill vise.
 
The first step is to anneal the guard.

Then either whack it from the sides to close the gap, or peen/planish the surface around the slot to close it up. Always go a tad too tight then either drive it on or carefully file it to a snug fit. Once fitted, flatten the front and back.
 
If you plan on cleaning up that blade, The gap is going to be even worse. You might just want to start over,
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The first step is to anneal the guard.
Click to expand...

Stacy I've discussed this with a few Mastersmiths and you are the first person to bring up annealing. I think that is a good idea, especially if you are using a punch or doing a lot of peening.

Something else Kevin did on a guard was he turned it on its side and hammered the slot more narrow by squishing it together. That was quick and worked real well, but is only useful if doing so wont ruin your guard design.

-Clint
 
Augus7us said:
Something else Kevin did on a guard was he turned it on its side and hammered the slot more narrow by squishing it together. That was quick and worked real well, but is only useful if doing so wont ruin your guard design.

-Clint
Click to expand...

That is the whack it from the sides we are talking about.

People who work in metal shaping everyday usually think of annealing as part of any task. It often isn't mentioned by the old timers. New makers are not used to this, and need to be reminded. Annealing is especially important in working non-ferrous metals. They can harden quickly from hammering, sanding/filing, and polishing. Heat to dull red and quench in water ... then carry on with the task.
 
Your problem may be that you have already cut the octagonal facets.
 
I've found many copper and brass rivets need to be annealed before using !

If you are soldering or brazing, remember that the ideal gap is 0.003" for both ideal capillary action and strength !
 
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