The best USMC Pattern Knife?

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Portholes

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Dec 19, 2009
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Getting a USMC Ka-Bar has been lingering in the back of my mind for a while. I always assumed the old brown leather Ka-Bar would be the way to go but I now realize that other makes produce equally authentic Marine knifes. I would like to know other's opinions on the Case USMC knife and the Ontario military knives versus the Ka-Bar before I make a final purchase. I know the Ka-Bar leather sheath is inferior. Also the black epoxy finish seems less classy than black oxide. Can anyone tell me if Ka-Bars always came with the epoxy finish or is that a modern counterpart to the oxide? Is the black oxide more or less durable than the epoxy? I assume the Case comes with black oxide. Am I right? Ka-Bar makes the d2 extreme. I assume d2 steel is harder than 1095. How does it compare in terms of strength and toughness? It is quite hard to sharpen as well, right? One of Ontario's bayonets is made of a "proprietary steel" rated between 53 and 58 rockwells. Seems like a pretty wide margin of hardness those are held to. Does anyone have any experience with this steel? What do you recommend for the handle material. I know a Ka-Bar's leather gives good grip wet or dry. Ontario has a knife with a "weather-proofed" black leather handle. Is that noticeably better in any way than the brown leather? Ontario also has "Dynaflex" handles. I have no Idea what that is. Then of course there is also Kraton. I assume there is nothing wrong with that but leather has more old fashioned class. Finally, is there any difference between the the quality of the different 1095 blades by Case, Ka-Bar, and Ontario? Heat treating standards? I am purchasing a Marine pattern knife not only to expand my collection (not really a collection yet, only have a Spyderco Police 3 that I carry daily) but also to have a quality fixed blade that I could use in a deployment or MEU, so my purposes for this knife are quite broad. I would love to have a knife that can hold a hair-popping edge, but my main interest is having a knife that can go through hell and back.
Thank you,
PFC, Osborn
 
I bought a classic Ka-Bar at MCT, and wore it everyday during my only tour in Iraq. The leather washer handle got fairly beat up and turned a darker shade of brown. The tip of the blade eventually wore through the sheath. I guess what I'm getting at is that it looks like it was taken to war, and that is what I like about it. I haven't used it since I came back from that deployment and I'm looking forward to passing it on to my son some day. The worn look of the leather only adds to its value for me.
 
I have nothing against the "space age plastics" that they use in the new models, but i'm glad I decided to get the model that was made to the original specs. Plastic just looks cheap, and leather does its job today as well as it did 60 years ago.
 
Don't forget the Israeli commando knife from Sheffield. It's closer to the original pattern that Ka-Bar ripped off, the Marble's 7" Ideal.
 
I have a Case USMC knife and like it but I have not used it one single time. It has some personal meanings to me and that's why I got it. I've had and used Kabar USMC knives and they work great. The difference I see between the two is the Case leather handle is a rough compared to the smooth leather handle on the Kabar. The Case blade does look to me like it's parkerized. My first Kabar seemed the same but some newer ones I've seen have a black coating on the blade. The sheaths a very similar. I haven't put my hands on any of the plastic handle ones.

I think you would be happy with either the Case or the Kabar for general field use. If you like "old fashioned class", then I think you would prefer the Case because of the looks of the blade and rough leather handle. It's a very nice knife. Send me your email address and I'll send you some pics in the next day or two of my Case and a Kabar for comparison.
 
Don't rule out Camillus. The company went under but they made the MkII for a very long time. There must be more than a few floating around for a fair price.

Frank
 
I don't know if Ka-bars always had the epoxy finish. Mine doesn't and it it was my grandfather's from WWII. Of course he could have taken it off. He replaced the handle during the war with some kinda resin. Alternating between clear and red resins. I have no idea what the stuff is, but it makes a nice handle. Hmm. I should go take some pics of it later.
 
I only have experience with the Kabar and the Ontario. I used the Kabar very lightly just enough to test the steel's cutting and sharpening. I've used my Ontario not hard but more then the Kabar. I can't tell no difference in the two different brands 1095. The Kabar had a much better fit and finish. That is the main reason I sold it. It was just to dog on pretty to use hard and possibly beat the snot out of! The sheaths are not good on any of these in my humble opinion. I recommed an after market sheath. I've read a lot of bad things on BF about the Ontario, but I couldn't be happier with mine!
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That Ontario looks great peter.
I had seen a Case in person but I only have experience with the Ka-Bar versions. I have two, a big one and a little one. Both are great knives that are well worth the money, they have alot of history if you get the original spec with the leather handle, 1095, and leather sheath, those are my favorites.

If you plan on really working the knife, cant beat 1095 for toughness. D2 will hold an edge longer, but will be easier to break, and also harder to field sharpen. Also, I think the D2 only come with rubber handles, the leather has a traditional feel most all of here can appreciate. Hope that helped.
 
MegaHelmet said:
I don't know if Ka-bars always had the epoxy finish. Mine doesn't and it it was my grandfather's from WWII. Of course he could have taken it off. He replaced the handle during the war with some kinda resin. Alternating between clear and red resins. I have no idea what the stuff is, but it makes a nice handle. Hmm. I should go take some pics of it later.
Click to expand...

I spoke with a lady from Kabar this morning. She stated that the finish on them now is different than what they were. I didn't get an exact date of the change. Prior to that she stated they were parkerized. The web site says its a epoxy powder coating.
 
Most of the Ka-Bar models are available with a Kydex sheath, so if the leather bothers you, you have other options. They also make it in desert tan colors if that helps.
 
A Kabar is a great knife, but there are many companies producing knives in this style and blade size.

You might look into the SOG company also. Particularly the Agency or Tech Bowies.
 
SilverFoxKnows said:
Don't rule out Camillus. The company went under but they made the MkII for a very long time. There must be more than a few floating around for a fair price.

Frank
Click to expand...

I have also had mine for 35 years.
Used it well for stationary camping in the woods of the Eastern Seaboard in the US

Don't use it much here now
Too much knife for the area!!!
 
glocktenman said:
I spoke with a lady from Kabar this morning. She stated that the finish on them now is different than what they were. I didn't get an exact date of the change. Prior to that she stated they were parkerized. The web site says its a epoxy powder coating.
Click to expand...

It's an epoxy powder coat that is well nigh impossible to remove, is what it is.

I have a Ka-Bar Short I converted from a small fighter to a slightly oversize hunting knife. First to go was the double guard, then I bent the remaining guard slightly to better fit my hand.

Next was the coating. Paint thinner was useless. Sandpaper skates off. Industrial-strength epoxy remover that I use at work, specifically for epoxy powder coats? Not a twitch.

All that worked was a run with a sander, though now it's an excellent hunter/utility.
 
Sword and Shield said:
It's an epoxy powder coat that is well nigh impossible to remove, is what it is.

I have a Ka-Bar Short I converted from a small fighter to a slightly oversize hunting knife. First to go was the double guard, then I bent the remaining guard slightly to better fit my hand.

Next was the coating. Paint thinner was useless. Sandpaper skates off. Industrial-strength epoxy remover that I use at work, specifically for epoxy powder coats? Not a twitch.

All that worked was a run with a sander, though now it's an excellent hunter/utility.
Click to expand...

Wow, thats some tough stuff.
 
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