Over the years I have carried lots of knives and have used them all hard.When I first examined the edge on my Basic#5 I must say I was somewhat hesitant at what its prformance might unvail.I was very pleased after using the knife for a couple of months,it sliced very well and to my surprise it fileted fish very well.One thing I have found interesting is how the edge does not really peak in performance until it has been dulled then resharpened.I do not know if this is the wire edge smoothing off or what but it just seems to be getting better.The only negative and positive point on the edge is its convex grind.At first I didnt like it now I appreciate its ease of resharpening,The one thing I dont like is when cutting into an apple or any large melon the edge pulls itself sideways,this is however a small minus in the fact the knife was never designed for fruit cutting.My favorite point of my #5 and my SJ is their tolerance for lack of care.For years I carried a Randall #1,and whenever I got to deep wading my trout stream or peeling that tater I had to give the damn thing all my attention and care.Do not get me wrong Carbon steel is the only steel to have,and I was very pleased to see a tad bit of rust on the edge of my Satin Jackyl when I had to do a little swimming in a canoeing incident.Try swimming around with a leather handle,sheath Randall and see what you get.MY advice to anyone who is going to purchase a new knife would be to get the SJackyl and save alot of time and money.
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The Busse Edge!
- Thread starter marsupial
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2000
- Messages
- 3,021
I have also come to like the special Busse edge. After its factory resharpening, I used it to do some chopping of variously sized pieces of wood. It barely lost its shaving sharpness after that, but after a few minutes with a strop (on both sides) it was sharper than when I started!
BTW, do you use a leather strop for the convex side of your Busses? If so, do you load it with any kind of paste to act as a light abrasive? I use a house-hold metal polish on mine, and it works relatively well.
BTW, do you use a leather strop for the convex side of your Busses? If so, do you load it with any kind of paste to act as a light abrasive? I use a house-hold metal polish on mine, and it works relatively well.
Eric Isaacson
Pirate
- Joined
- Dec 19, 1999
- Messages
- 12,547
Marsupial,
Thanks for taking the time to give us your impressions. It is nice to hear what others think.
Satin Jackyl, I like that
Thanks for taking the time to give us your impressions. It is nice to hear what others think.
Satin Jackyl, I like that
Lenny
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 1998
- Messages
- 2,487
I could never get the hang of sharpening the compound edge on my Steel Heart E. So, I turned it into a V grind edge on my edge Pro.
It still chops like a Mutha', but it's now much more suited to normal slicing and push cutting tasks. Touch-ups on the Spyderco Sharpmaker are a breeze.
Lenny
It still chops like a Mutha', but it's now much more suited to normal slicing and push cutting tasks. Touch-ups on the Spyderco Sharpmaker are a breeze.
Lenny
Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
marsupial :
I think this just speaks for your high level of sharpening skills. In regards to a polished finish, the job done at Busse Combat is the equal of any I have seen and better than most. Of course there is always the possibility of the odd one coming out less than 100%, but overall the initial sharpness is quite high.
Yes, any asymmetric design will tend to cause that. However since the primary grinds are symmetric this is not really a large effect. You can compensate for it if you want by altering the shoulder of the flat bevel.
Yes, awhile ago I was out with a couple of friends doing some misc. woodwork. One of the blades we were using was my Battle Mistress. After we were finished I packed all the blades away. A couple of weeks later took out the Battle Mistress and it showed only minor surface corrosion. I used a wire brush to scrap off the sap which also removed the light rust. I then passed it 5 times per side on a strop and it smoothly shaved.
Interestingly enough, there is a discussion currently on rec.knives (newsgroup) about Busse Combat knives (specifically vs Cold Steel). The general idea is that while Busse knives are strong they don't hold significant advantages in any other area and that the extra strength is not of any practical use anyway. Both arguments are flawed for many reasons, obvious contridictions being noted in marsupial's post. Note if you do decide to check it out, rec.knives is an unmoderated newsgroup.
-Cliff
I think this just speaks for your high level of sharpening skills. In regards to a polished finish, the job done at Busse Combat is the equal of any I have seen and better than most. Of course there is always the possibility of the odd one coming out less than 100%, but overall the initial sharpness is quite high.
Yes, any asymmetric design will tend to cause that. However since the primary grinds are symmetric this is not really a large effect. You can compensate for it if you want by altering the shoulder of the flat bevel.
Yes, awhile ago I was out with a couple of friends doing some misc. woodwork. One of the blades we were using was my Battle Mistress. After we were finished I packed all the blades away. A couple of weeks later took out the Battle Mistress and it showed only minor surface corrosion. I used a wire brush to scrap off the sap which also removed the light rust. I then passed it 5 times per side on a strop and it smoothly shaved.
Interestingly enough, there is a discussion currently on rec.knives (newsgroup) about Busse Combat knives (specifically vs Cold Steel). The general idea is that while Busse knives are strong they don't hold significant advantages in any other area and that the extra strength is not of any practical use anyway. Both arguments are flawed for many reasons, obvious contridictions being noted in marsupial's post. Note if you do decide to check it out, rec.knives is an unmoderated newsgroup.
-Cliff
When I sharpen either of my Busse's all I usually use is a ceramic rod or in extreme cases a flat sleel,That is all I have ever used on any of my knives and its always been sufficient.What I think alot of peaple do not realize about their blade is that you should not ever use a knife till its dull rather always touch it up occasionally.If you use a knife until you have to file it then its not the knifes fault but the users.Right now unfortunately I am using my Basic#5 sheath for my SJ while I await my kydex and my cordura from Busse.The blade is just a tad to long and I would not want to wrestle with it on,but it is still safe enuff to carry.As far as the comparison to Busse and Cold steel the question arises "what comparison".I own lots of Cold steel knives and they are good knives for the money,but why pay $180.00 for a Recon Scout when I can pay $220.00 For my Jackyl an have twice the knife.Cold steels are good but its obvious Busse has done its homework.I also do not like what cold steel has done by making these BB classics from Taiwan and selling them at a premium price.My busse is American enuff said!