The compromise

R

robe280

Joined
May 16, 2005
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10
Hello all
Was impressed with content of forum and would respect/appreciate your comments.
I am currently researching knives for my next purchase. This will be a 3 1/2 to 4 inch drop point folder.

THE COMPROMISE being $$ for blade steel. HAve been researching blade steels and am going round in circles chasing grind, blade thickness and steel used in the blade for an indication of the best blade for me. Am not sure at what $ or brand my requirements will be met and anything above this becomes extravagent or below a waste of money.

I want a blade that I can sharpen razor sharp with oil stone, diamond file and leather strap. That done it has to hold this long enough to feild dress 2+ deer.
Buck, Gerber and Puma have all been respected brands but am just getting an indication that there is a whole world of less expensive knives using compareable steels.

What steel should I set as my minimum?

What commercial knife makers are producing good blades using this steel?

(customs cost more and after attempting my first last year am going to wait and make my own 'beautiful' custom later :D . The knife above is a working knife to tide me over)
 
For a folder used for skinning game, I think you'd probably be served pretty well by Queen Cutlery's Folding Hunter model with D2 blades. D2 can be sharpened fairly easily and will hold an edge for a long time.

Perhaps a Ka-Bar Dozier Hunter or Skinner it's quite a bit cheaper than the Queen and Aus-8, while not the best is certainly one of the better low end steels out there.

I don't know if there are any less expensive brands than Buck and Gerber, that could be considered good quality. They're actually at the lower end of most spectrums, however they both offer good knives. The classic Buck 110 comes to mind.

If you've got a price you've settled on the best thing to do is look for a knife that fits well within your requirement profile and compromise. For reference, in a field knife, I would probably prefer something stainless, a minimum of 440C and a price tag of around $50(U.S.). If you can provide us with some basic specifications we'll be able to give you suggestions until the cows come home.

The trouble with compromise is that it makes logical sense, but once you see this knife...or that knife...or that knife, you're thinking, "All of these choices, I'll just buy them all!" :D

Oh and welcome to BF and sorry there is no 12 step program. :D

-Rob
 
Queen Model 4180. Under $40 brand new, and once you thin out the edge, I wouldn't doubt you could skin 5 or more deer. It's in D2, and they got the heat treat right...
 
sodak said:
Queen Model 4180. Under $40 brand new, and once you thin out the edge, I wouldn't doubt you could skin 5 or more deer. It's in D2, and they got the heat treat right...
Click to expand...
That was to be my suggestion also, but I saw he wants one that bends in the middle :)
 
Thanks RandomMan
Yes compromising is not conducive to the most fun. I would also love a Beretta folding knife for wildfowling to match my shotgun. Have deliberatley not been looking as it one of those things I won't want to compromise and couldn't care less if there were more 'logical' options. Which means I best avoid this while I don't have the money, infavour of more practical necessities.

Yes I am on the wrong side of the 12 step program to becomming a knife expert. Am hoping everyone else out there can start me on my way and also offer a bit of hindsight so I can avoid getting it the expensive way.

I have up to $150 Aus to spend which from pricing around only seems to be $60 US for a Knife of the counter in Australia. I can probably do better than this shopping around though.

Specs
3.5 to 4 inch drop point blade in folder with locking mechanism, <$60US (will be in the US in JAN 06 so could wait and have $110 US)

What is the best blade I can get for $60 US and who makes it.
Will appreciate all suggestions and am patient so I can wait for all the cows to come home :D
 
Very nice knife. 5 + deer. Wanted a folder as I have to belly crawl a fair bit to get the deer and the folders are nice and compac.
Compromise fixed in D2 or folder in Aus-8 :confused:
 
I think many steels will hold up better than you suspect. People have dressed game for a long time with Buck fixed blades and others.

AUS8 will probably do the trick. Once you get the hang of sharpening well, it'll hold an edge longer than you'd think (as evident by my Cold Steel Voyager folder), easily for a couple of deer.

Also, I highly reccomend you check out some fixed blade customs here on the Knifemaker's forums. I'm a big proponent of buying here, because the fixed blade knives are of great quality and reasonable prices.
Here's one I found in the last 10 seconds...



Getting back to your immediate topic: AUS8 will probably cut the mustard with a nice 30-35 degree edge. Above this, S30V, VG-10, 154CM, ATS-34, ATS-55, D2, M2, A2, 440C, O1, W1, 420V, 440V, BG42, CPM-3V, and any number of steels I've forgotten here (and more obscure varieties I left out) will probably do what you want.
Among steels, 440C, O1, W1, 5160, 1095, and AUS8 are probably the "bottom line." Just about everything above that will do your job and more.


If you want more than just edge retention (rust resistance, toughness (not easy to snap)), then S30V is a compromise of all of them, with others filling in other combinations of these characteristics, along with price.




Most knives you find by Spyderco, Benchmade, some Buck and Gerber, and other popular brands will have a good steel, so try and choose on fit and function over materials if you can help it.

Good luck, hope that helps.

_z

EDIT: Google up "knife steels" and "knife steel guide," sometimes with the steel type included in the search, to get on your way. There are a lot of good links out there that'll help you understand all of these letter and number designations. You'll know 85% of what everybody here knows in no time (beyond that, it's just showin off :p). :)
 
dullone said:
That was to be my suggestion also, but I saw he wants one that bends in the middle :)
Click to expand...

Dang it, I hate it when I don't read through all the way! Sorry guys! :footinmou :eek:

Most of the folders I have that can do the job don't have a great deal of belly. If you get a Buck 110, though, for around $70 you can order one in BG-42 from the Buck Custom shop. This will do what you are asking, many have had good experience in this steel. I would also second the suggestion of a Queen folder. They also make a large stockman in D2 that will keep an edge for a very long time, and it is light, and won't take up much room.

Good luck with your search!
 
Have googled my way around the internet and have come across a lot of infomation on knife steels. Not all of it agrees. Agree with z537z that in the end it will come down to feel but I want to narrow my search down to the best blades I can afford.

The most user friendly steel guide I found
http://www.bkcg.co.uk/guide/steels.html

listed ATS - 34 as not easy to sharpen

Aus-8, BG-42, CPM-440V as Premium stainless steels

440C as Surgical grade stainless steel

and 440A and D2 as tool steel as it is not easy to sharpen, not very sharp and not very rust resistant.

I only intend to use an oil stone, diamond file and leather strap to sharpen. Can any of these steel be ruled out as to hard to sharpen with out power or grinding wheel.

I have a hollow ground 440C knife that has been great but doesn't hold an edge all that long with normal use 2 inch blade dull after 1 deer. Could someone try and rate the steels in order above and below 440C.

I don't want to start an argument over which is better but would greatly appreciate other people recommendations based on personal experience or metal science.
 
That chart looks a little iffy. D2 is a well liked and respected cutlery steel that can be sharpened to resemble a scalpel.

It can be a dog to sharpen from scratch but it holds an edge for a long time. Besides, a quick touch up to keep it optimum is easy to do as you arn't removing much metal. Its a semi-stainless and unless you never care for your things then rust shouldnt be a problem.

I sell knives on your side of the world. email me if you would like to talk about a narrowed down choice.
 
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