The Flats The Flats

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Not The plane The Plane(Fantasy Island) but the Flats
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Help I am having a real problem getting the flats FLAT. Sounds dumb huh. I am using 5160 bar stock and while removing the scale I keep winding up with the end too skinny or a wavy surface where the scales will be attached. I have tried using my platen instead of the contact wheel to debark the sides no luck.

Try to match up the scales and GAP CITY. I am thinking of getting a 12" Disk sander will that work better? HELP!
 
I've had similar problems Bob and I've had a bit of success getting around it. First, I can't imagine the contact wheel working well. I have a 9" resversible disc that works fairly well. The only problem I've had with it is that it tends to torque (twist) the work a bit, leaving corners or edges a bit low. I'm going to switch to variable drive pulleys for the belt and I think that slowing it down will help there.

With either platen or disc, it is almost impossible to touch the entire surface simultaneously. This is bound to leave a few 'dings' in the edges or corners. I haven't tried it but I've read that you can get around this by holding the work against the platen (Magnets?) before you turn on the grinder (using a foot switch). This last method should be a piece of cake for removing scale on a 6x48.



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Rob Ridley
Ranger Original Handcrafted Knives
 
As Rob suggested, use a magnet. I had a few blades that I had a similar probem with. Get a fairly powerful magnet, use it lengthwise, and it will work nicely. You don't have to worry about it slipping, and don't have to start and stop the grinder.

Stiletto
 
Bobh,
A few suggestions:
  • Grind your blade to shape, e.g. profile, bevels to 50 grit and then remove the bark.
  • Put a light hollow grind down the center of your tang, this helps with getting the flats flatter. You don't need to grind the hollow out afterwards either. Allignment of the scales is much better, as they are resting on, lets say 5/16", of metal around the perimeter of the tang.
  • To avoid the nicks and dings Rob! was talking about, you need a foot controlled switch ($2.00, dryer door switch) for your grinder and you need to slow the grinder down. With the higher speeds it is extremly difficult to hold a blade flat at startup, even with magnets.

    Hope this helps,

    Thomas



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    Haslinger Handcrafted Custom Knives
    http://members.home.net/thknives
    thknives@home.com
 
Put what Rob and Thomas said together and you'll not have a problem. I also find it useful to face the point of the blade into the belt so the back of the tang that I want flat will be on the bottom end of the belt. That makes it easier to lay the blade down on the belt while it is running (with said magnet of course) without nicking the tang. The point end of the blade will be ground away anyway so if you get that a little rounded, no problem.

You might also check to see if your platen is true. Even if it is, it is not a bad idea to surface it with some hardened steel. I use a 1/4" piece of Rc62 D2.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
I use wet and dry sandpaper, that I have spray glued with 3m 777 spray adhesive on
a granite plate. You can also use a 1/4" of plate glass as a surface plate. If the steel
is really pitted, I have had to start with 80 grit, but usually I start with 360.

If you mirror polish your blades, this will not only get your edges real sharp and professional looking, it will show a nice contrast.


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A.T.
http://www.customknives.com
AKTI #476


 
12 disc is good but expensive....9 inch can be cut out of regular sheets....MUCH cheaper. I have a reversible variable speed, very nice for not only getting things flat but also for taking it down to 600 grit and almost a mirror polish...never had much luch with the platen thing..although its good for getting the bark off and rough work in my opinion.....other resort.....hand sanding with rough w/d and a FLAT piece of bar stock.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Am I the only knifenut that uses a 6 by 48 to sand the flats nice and flat??

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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
Thanks guys
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I had forgotten about doing the hollow grind thing for the tang. I am going to try that along with the magnet. Already ordered the 12" disc sandpaper from GL Pearce so as soon as I set up the sander I will try it out.
HEY TOM!!!
What Horse power is your disc sander?
All I have right now is a 1/2hp 1725rpm.
 
Michael,
You and I must be the only two. I really like the nice wide surface, even I have trouble messing things up! One thing I do as well is to use a magnet. I place a piece of paper between the magnet and the blade to keep the blade from getting scratched when I take it off of the magnet.

One thing thats kind of funny. I was doing this one time and wondered, "What's that smell? Is something burning?" Uh, the paper was on fire...imagine that!

C Wilkins
 
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