Although framelocks look very simple and easy to make, there is a lot going on there and not everyone, or every manufacture can do them in the correct way so that the lock functions as it should. Whenever I get a knife that I've never tried before, and it is a framelock, I always worry that I might get one that has poor lockup and/or sloppy action, with sloppy action being a weak spring. I have had a couple of custom framelocks, and one had great fit and function, while the other had a lock bar that did not have the correct bend as pressure on the blade would cause the lock to move. At the same time I've had good and I have had not so good factory framelocks. All this said to set the stage and to lead up to the Kershaw framelock. I've only got one Kershaw framelock and that is the Tyrade. Now I know I have been "preaching" the Tyrade every chance I get, but when you have as fine a piece of cutlery in your hand as the Tyrade, you can not help it! The absolute best framelock I have felt, and the one that I consider to be the framelock all other framelocks should strive to be like, is the CRK Sebenza. Any surprise? Anyway, the Tyrade framelock is the first to remind me of the Sebenza framelock, and possibly surpasses it! To me that is saying something. The Tyrade lock bar comes over to cover the left half of the bladetang, and with a bladetang at .156" thick, you have plenty of wear room. The lock bar also has the stiffness I desire in a framelock, the stiffness that lets you know that this lock is not going to slide over by itself. And finally, when the lock is engaged, you CAN NOT push the bar over any further than where it locked at. Now you might be able to take a pair of pliers and force it over, but in the end what would that prove? Nothing! So what are some feelings about the other framelocks that Kershaw produces? Are they all as perfect as the Tyrade?
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The Kershaw framelock
- Thread starter cutter17
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Yes and if you look closely at the Tyrade its flipper is also a lock stabalizer. Look in under the locks long cut when you have the blade opened. You can see that unlike the JYDII frame lock and others the Tyrade has the flipper tolerances so close the the blade itself sits precisely right under the lock to effectively block the lock from excessively vertical movement while the pocket clip effectively prevents hyperextension of the lock bar.
Combine this with the super edge keeping of that beautiful composite blade, speed safe operation, and a frame that is capable of the taking the heaviest tasks and laughing it off and you have a real winner of a folder.
STR
Combine this with the super edge keeping of that beautiful composite blade, speed safe operation, and a frame that is capable of the taking the heaviest tasks and laughing it off and you have a real winner of a folder.
STR
Yes, I have mentioned the way the frame lock and blade tang engage and that takes some fine engineering to get the tightest fit possible, and the Tyrade has accomplished that. No matter how tight you grasp the knife, that lockbar will not be moving up! STR, I believe we both have the same "jones" for the Tyrade!
As I've stated in some earlier posts, I sold Kershaws long before I ever owned one. At the time I was more willing to spend larger amounts on a fixed bladed knife than I was for a folding pocket knife. A few years ago, I was staring at my shelf of knives thinking, my expensive knives just sit there whilst my everyday knives are cheap. That just seamed illogical to me. That is why now I am more focused on a better knife, and why I only carry a Kershaw. Even in the lesser expensive models, Kershaw tends to put more attention to their knives than the brands I was use to purchasing. Honestly, if I could afford to be a knife dealer, I would specialize in Kershaw for my line of folding knives. That is how much I admire them.
razorburn
Gold Member
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I can easily push the titanium frame lock of my Zdp-189 Mini-cyclone all the way till it touch the other piece of titanium.Then just by releasing the lock,it will slowly spring to the mid point of the blade. On the other hand,the frame lock on the ZT 301 is just in another class.It's frame lock has more spring tension and a more solid lockup.
Hello All,
New to this forum and knives. I just picked up a Kershaw Shallot yesterday with the combo blade. I must say that it is a nice piece of steel.
Since I'm all new to this I didn't know what the differences were with the locks and such.
When I'm "practicing' with the Shallot trying to get used to the frame lock mechanism I find it hard to push it to the side to unlock the open blade with my thumb and then fold the blade into the handle with my index finger (seems a bit snug). Is this normal? Will it get easier as time goes by?
TIA
New to this forum and knives. I just picked up a Kershaw Shallot yesterday with the combo blade. I must say that it is a nice piece of steel.
Since I'm all new to this I didn't know what the differences were with the locks and such.
When I'm "practicing' with the Shallot trying to get used to the frame lock mechanism I find it hard to push it to the side to unlock the open blade with my thumb and then fold the blade into the handle with my index finger (seems a bit snug). Is this normal? Will it get easier as time goes by?
TIA
- Joined
- Aug 13, 2005
- Messages
- 1,283
off the top of my head, I've had 3 that are in that quality range.
1. Tyrade- all 4 I've owned have been perfect
2. Ti Mini Cyclone- Just one but it was perfect
3. JYD TISG2- Lock up was good but I found the lock bar to be a little too flexy... meaning that I don't like bars that flex beyond the handle (outside the knife) when unlocking.
There are other knives like Leeks etc... and those are all fine too. In fact you can swap blades on those without much difference at all in lock up. Kershaw's tolerances are that good.
GOOD QUESTION
1. Tyrade- all 4 I've owned have been perfect
2. Ti Mini Cyclone- Just one but it was perfect
3. JYD TISG2- Lock up was good but I found the lock bar to be a little too flexy... meaning that I don't like bars that flex beyond the handle (outside the knife) when unlocking.
There are other knives like Leeks etc... and those are all fine too. In fact you can swap blades on those without much difference at all in lock up. Kershaw's tolerances are that good.
GOOD QUESTION
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
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I like my rainbow leek framelock--solid as ever with perfect lockup. When I flicked a ZT 0301 though I knew that I was going to get one of those.
Have got a plain old VaporI Real simple knife, about probably about $20 by now at wal-mart or any big supplier.
There is an ever so slight up/down wiggle of the blade. But it snaps in and stays. It's been my edc for nearly a year now. Never had a problem and have "experimented" with trying to torque it free. I'm left handed so I have an easier time doing this than RH users. My CRKT could easily be talked into freeing up. My Vapor does just fine.
There is an ever so slight up/down wiggle of the blade. But it snaps in and stays. It's been my edc for nearly a year now. Never had a problem and have "experimented" with trying to torque it free. I'm left handed so I have an easier time doing this than RH users. My CRKT could easily be talked into freeing up. My Vapor does just fine.
My Shallot's frame lock performs flawlessly. This is my first frame lock and it seems like a very solid lock. Very easy to operate. I like the smoother edge of the frame compared to the sharper edge on the liner.
I see that the Scallion is switching to a frame lock, I wonder if this is going to be a trend for Kershaw. Switching over to frame locks. It seems like a good idea especially if the production costs are are only very minimally more. Maybe less? Less parts, less labor intensive?
I may switch to buying only frame lock's as opposed to a liner lock's in the future. Not that I have ever had any problems with Kershaw's liner lock"s but it just seems like a more heavy duty lock system compared to the liner lock. It just seems logical to buy a better lock to me if the cost isn't too high.
I have been wanting a ZT knife but just couldn't decide. I just read above that the 300 series are frame lock's, now that seals the deal for me! Now to start saving.
I like the new all black ones.
I see that the Scallion is switching to a frame lock, I wonder if this is going to be a trend for Kershaw. Switching over to frame locks. It seems like a good idea especially if the production costs are are only very minimally more. Maybe less? Less parts, less labor intensive?
I may switch to buying only frame lock's as opposed to a liner lock's in the future. Not that I have ever had any problems with Kershaw's liner lock"s but it just seems like a more heavy duty lock system compared to the liner lock. It just seems logical to buy a better lock to me if the cost isn't too high.
I have been wanting a ZT knife but just couldn't decide. I just read above that the 300 series are frame lock's, now that seals the deal for me! Now to start saving.
I like the new all black ones.
- Joined
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My Shallot's frame lock performs flawlessly. This is my first frame lock and it seems like a very solid lock. Very easy to operate. I like the smoother edge of the frame compared to the sharper edge on the liner.
I see that the Scallion is switching to a frame lock, I wonder if this is going to be a trend for Kershaw. Switching over to frame locks. It seems like a good idea especially if the production costs are are only very minimally more. Maybe less? Less parts, less labor intensive?
I may switch to buying only frame lock's as opposed to a liner lock's in the future. Not that I have ever had any problems with Kershaw's liner lock"s but it just seems like a more heavy duty lock system compared to the liner lock. It just seems logical to buy a better lock to me if the cost isn't too high.
I have been wanting a ZT knife but just couldn't decide. I just read above that the 300 series are frame lock's, now that seals the deal for me! Now to start saving.
Actually, I doubt any switch to frame locks is in progress. I think the frame lock choice follows from the choice of handle material, i.e. solid metal handles (e.g. solid Ti or stainless steel frames) are equipped with frame locks as opposed to handles with full-coverage aluminum or G10 scales (and liners) which are equipped with liner or stud locks.
There are some exceptions like the Groove, which uses a frame lock but still has handle scales (although they're not full-coverage), but the above seems to be the pattern Kershaw follows.
I'd bet that any Scallion still produced with aluminum scales or scales of another material would still be equipped with a liner lock, while Scallions with solid Stainless or Ti frames would be equipped with frame locks.
Just my opinion based on observation...YMMV.
Ray
Actually, I doubt any switch to frame locks is in progress. I think the frame lock choice follows from the choice of handle material, i.e. solid metal handles (e.g. solid Ti or stainless steel frames) are equipped with frame locks as opposed to handles with full-coverage aluminum or G10 scales (and liners) which are equipped with liner or stud locks.
There are some exceptions like the Groove, which uses a frame lock but still has handle scales (although they're not full-coverage), but the above seems to be the pattern Kershaw follows.
I'd bet that any Scallion still produced with aluminum scales or scales of another material would still be equipped with a liner lock, while Scallions with solid Stainless or Ti frames would be equipped with frame locks.
Just my opinion based on observation...YMMV.
Ray
reholli: Yeah, I agree with your assessment of frame locks. I was thinking about it later and the different materials used to make a frame lock probably offset the additional parts and labor used to make a liner lock.
I wonder, is the liner lock equally is as strong as a frame lock?
The frame lock SEEMS to be a simpler design and as good or better than a frame lock. I like simple but efficient/strong. Its the K.I.S.S. principle.
Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
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- 90,915
There isn't much theoretical difference between a framelock and a liner lock at the point of contact, but both need to be carefully fit at the lock-tang juncture of the lock will slip or will move all the way over and jam.
Some of the differences in practice are
1) liner locks often use thinner stock, since all they do is lock. A frame needs to hold the knife together too. But check out the liners on the Retribution folders.
2) since the framelock is not covered by a handle slab, your hand presses directly on it when the blade is open, adding pressure keeping it locked. A weak liner lock can shift when your grip shifts since it can move back and forth inside the handle.
Some of the differences in practice are
1) liner locks often use thinner stock, since all they do is lock. A frame needs to hold the knife together too.
But check out the liners on the Retribution folders.2) since the framelock is not covered by a handle slab, your hand presses directly on it when the blade is open, adding pressure keeping it locked. A weak liner lock can shift when your grip shifts since it can move back and forth inside the handle.