The lazy route sharpening

D

drebs

Joined
Dec 6, 2014
Messages
86
So I have a really nice hapstone, an apex , and a full set of venev stones I’ve never used. I have a alot of Spyderco’s custom knives ..

S90v 62 Hrc
Cmp-20v
Magna cut 63 hrc
Para 3’s - Rex 45, cruwear, magnacut, s90v
CT’s-xhp

Long story short I’m too busy with reloading, work, other hobbies to sit down and sharpen my knives.

I’ve gotten quite adapt and good with the Ken onion worksharp, I’ve never wanted to run my Spyderco’s or customs because of the slight convex edge it puts on them. However know I can’t remember why I was so adverse to a convex edge in the first place.

They are know making diamond and silicone carbine belts for them some from workshop some 3rd party..

2 questions , drawbacks, I’m trying to remember why I looked down on convex edges in the first place ? I know that the edge ultimately isn’t as refined as an Apex pro Haston or TS pro type system. But I’ll take the trade off for my time. I know one drawback is not being able to touch up without a convex / electric Ken onion on me. Where in the grit progression do I need diamond and when do I need silicone carbide I’ll obviously have to re-profile these edges.
 
I have a KOWS as well I use it mostly on the older kitchen knives, and a pocket knife or two. Touch up can be done with some 1000 grit wetdry mounted to something like a mouse pad. Personally I use that 1" wide self stick foam moulding. stick the sandpaper to the foam and trim. A light touch is usually all it takes to refine the edge. To me convex edges seem a little slippery compared to a bevel, but usually I can't tell a difference when using the knives. Convex may stay sharper longer, maybe??
 
In regards to powered sharpening;
Diamond is favored for supersteels and creating a mirrored or semi-mirrored edge, or in the case of a diamond wheel it creates a unique sheen. If I am honing or stropping, most of the time I find Tormek’s honing compound works for most steels very well. A Diamond or Cbn 1x30 would be interesting… If possible I do supersteels on the Tormek with CBN wheels.
I almost never use silicone carbide for grinding on ferrous or non-ferrous metal although it does polish fairly well. As I understand it, the crystals are too fragile for metal. There would be health concerns breathing silicone carbide as well.
 
drebs said:
So I have a really nice hapstone, an apex , and a full set of venev stones I’ve never used. I have a alot of Spyderco’s custom knives ..

S90v 62 Hrc
Cmp-20v
Magna cut 63 hrc
Para 3’s - Rex 45, cruwear, magnacut, s90v
CT’s-xhp

Long story short I’m too busy with reloading, work, other hobbies to sit down and sharpen my knives.

I’ve gotten quite adapt and good with the Ken onion worksharp, I’ve never wanted to run my Spyderco’s or customs because of the slight convex edge it puts on them. However know I can’t remember why I was so adverse to a convex edge in the first place.

They are know making diamond and silicone carbine belts for them some from workshop some 3rd party..

2 questions , drawbacks, I’m trying to remember why I looked down on convex edges in the first place ? I know that the edge ultimately isn’t as refined as an Apex pro Haston or TS pro type system. But I’ll take the trade off for my time. I know one drawback is not being able to touch up without a convex / electric Ken onion on me. Where in the grit progression do I need diamond and when do I need silicone carbide I’ll obviously have to re-profile these edges.
Click to expand...
I'm just a free hand guy but can touch up convex edges no problem, simply be sure the apex is making contact with the stone. Convex edges are thinner behind the edge so they cut better. I approximate convex edges free hand and there is no down side that I am aware of.
 
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