The most basic of KMG set up question

Core Knife Co.

Core Knife Co.

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Apr 8, 2009
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I'm looking at different configurations for the KMG and I keep coming away with more questions than I do answers. I know I'm interested in the platen grinder at this moment in time. to this point, all I've ever done is flat, convex and scandi grinds so I think the platen model will be perfect.

I think this would be the most basic set up for my needs.

KMG Platen Model: $750
1-1/2 HP Single Speed Motor: $318
Work Rest: $42
Switch/Wires: $38
Base Plate: $115
3 Speed Motor Pulley: $42
3 Speed Grinder Pulley: $42
Drive Belt: $9.50

That would total $1356.50 without any shipping costs.

I would really like to have a 2" contact wheel for the inside curves of handles.

Contact Wheel: $65
Spindle: $16
Tooling Arm: $80

That would put me at $1517.50 without shipping.

I'd also like a slack belt option, but that's going to have to wait for sure.

My question is, would this be my best option at this point? I purchased the plans for the No Weld Grinder. I just don't know If I have the experience to assemble it. Any other suggestions?
 
Be aware that the platen is removable (2 bolts) and then you can do slack belt work. Less convenient, but doable. Also, the work rest is included with the basic machine. Motors can be purchased for less. I bought my 2HP TEFC on a well known auction site for $125. Variable speed is incredibly useful, especially for sharpening, but it is more expensive. I love my KMG. -Doug
 
I might also add that you can get a VFD and TEFC motor from Wayne Coe for around $750 and that's a 2 hp motor with the variable speed. I second the slack belt option using the bolts to drop the platen out. You can for a small extra charge, have Rob replace the wheels on the platen with larger diameter rubber wheels and skip the extra spindle and tooling arm.

www.waynecoeartistblacksmith.com
 
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I bought the GIB. It's not too hard to assemble... Getting the correct bushing washers, and nuts and bolts takes time.
My costs were GIB 250, Motor and VFD from Wayne Coe(1.5Hp 3Ph 1725RPM w/VFD set to 2x speed) was 750ish, contact wheels, drive and tension wheels from Tracy was another 250ish. (don't forget to buy your ceramic platen liner). Bolt's, nut's, and 1-1/2" tube steel was another 100 or so... Forgetting some things, but it ended up being under $1,500 for the basic setup. I went with Blaze belts and "gator" belts for another 75 to start.

As far as the assembly. I bought a cheap Ryobi drill press, but bought good Cobalt drill bits. Slow speed drilling with cutting fluid worked. I only had troubles with drilling one part on the tracking mechanism. Other than that, it was a 6 hour build, with another 6 running around getting nuts, bolts, and steel....

Why I went with the GIB.... I could buy the parts over two months, for the same price I now have a variable speed grinder, I am now ordering another 1.5HP motor and a 9" disc to run off the same VFD....

I'd rather have spent my time working on knives, but the build time was worth the sacrifice.

I bought the flat platen and the Multi platen both, if I had it to do again, I'd buy the multi only, with an 8"(or larger) contact wheel on one side, a 3" on the other.

BTW, I've seen some people struggle with some of the tapping that's required on the GIB, I just had a friend weld the base to the main upright, and saved a lot of work there....The other items to tap were easy(based upon advice given here recently on how to tap properly)....

PS, I also chose the GIB because of Unky's WIP and all of his research and build questions... It was a tutorial already done for me....
 
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Yeah, I have a lot of different options I need to look at. Money is a big issue right now so I am trying to find the most economical options. See what options I have. I know a variable speed option would be the best in the end, but I am not opposed to adjusting pulleys either. Having some contact wheels installed on the platen is a good alternative to buying additional tooling arms.
 
You can replace the lower wheel on the flat platen with a 2" contact wheel and save some money on buying a separate spindle and tool arm.
 
MHill said:
Yeah, I have a lot of different options I need to look at. Money is a big issue right now so I am trying to find the most economical options. See what options I have. I know a variable speed option would be the best in the end, but I am not opposed to adjusting pulleys either. Having some contact wheels installed on the platen is a good alternative to buying additional tooling arms.
Click to expand...

So... Money wasn't too much of an issue overall for me... But, if it is for you, I just found an 1800 RPM 3 PH TEFC new in box motor for 169 online. You could but that motor, get the GIB, contact wheels,nuts, bolts, washers and tube and angle steel for 900 bucks or less total cost... Add the VFD when money allows and you'll be set. The steel can be scrounged pretty easilyto save money too... I actually got most all my bolts from work from the boss and saved fifteen or twenty bucks there...
I also went with contact wheels on the platen to save money...

Edited to add... Duh... You need the VFD for the 3Ph motor.....can't add it later....
 
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I need to get more serious about this No Weld Grinder. I'm going to get the plans out one more time and start making a material list and see what I come up with. I appreciate the replies.
 
I can totally put this No Weld Grinder together. I just finished pricing the steel on 2 online steel sites. Come Monday I plan on hitting some of the local steel shops and then pricing the nuts and bolts.

I'm going to also price the swivel arm multi tool attachment, so I'll need an 8" contact wheel and a 2" contact wheel to go along with the tracking wheel and drive wheel. I'm sure it will just be cheaper to use the 2" contact wheel on the flat platen.
 
My friend Ben just put his new KMG together over here at my shop. I like this smaller base plate (cheaper too) with the motor mounted on top. Really compact. The KMG is a great grinder. It runs so good and quiet and rock solid.

MarkStraussmostly004.jpg


MarkStraussmostly006.jpg
 
Bruce, that is exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have any clue what he is all in for? Did you two make that mounting plate and what size motor did he use on that pulley setup?

Thank you,
 
He did make the plate that bolts to the back and the 1/4" plate hinges. The 1 1/2 hp motor sits on its own plate. He was originally going to mount the motor on the side as usual but the motor couldnt be wired in reverse rotation. Some dont I guess.
MHill said:
Bruce, that is exactly what I'm looking for. Do you have any clue what he is all in for? Did you two make that mounting plate and what size motor did he use on that pulley setup?

Thank you,
Click to expand...
 
I think this will make me change how mine is set up...Thanks for the pics Bruce...great idea!
 
Mhill,

you've made some pretty good knives, I have faith you can put this GIB together no prob... save you some cash, and kinda work at leisure gathering parts..

but in my mind a grinder appears extremely easy to weld together (though I've never done one), what exactly is the benefit to the GIB?? other then its no weld..... do you really save that much on flat stock opposed to square??

thank God (for work) at the moment I don't have time to fool with a grinder but I've been trying to gather enough stock for a build.. it just takes time, time I don't have..

go with a 14" serrated contact :D

take care,
 
If all your doing is flat and convex grinding the base model with the platen would be the one for you. I'm not sure what the platen roller diameter is, but I've used them to make curves on handles. I've got the base platen model, with a large wheel for some operations but hardly ever use the wheel, I mostly flat and convex grind too. The best bang for the buck is a Coote and I dearly love mine and still use it, but there's no comparison with the KMG. It's built like a tank and has enough mass to quite down vibrations and the tracking on a good three wheel machine is generally better than the best two wheel machine. Either build or buy a KMG, you won't be sorry. And I'd suggest at least a 2 horse motor. I never did see the need for expensive variable speed control, step pulleys work pretty well for me and are a heck of a lot cheaper.
 
I like my coated 2" contact wheel, I think it is a change worth making.

I use my small wheel on a lot of my knives, I really like it.

I don't think a slack belt attachment is really necessary, I just use the top of mine for slack belt grinding or remove the platen, it only takes a second to remove it.

Get your nuts and bolts ready to bolt it to the base plate and table as well as bolts for the motor, they don't come with any.
 
i built a no-weld grinder 3years ago. it works great!! and the plans are very easy to understand and follow. i use itfor many things other than knife related. it has certainly earned its rightful place in my shop. i got all the square tube steel from fastenal pre-cut to the required lengths for about 75 bucks. it works great!!! i dont regret a dime.
 
I started my No Weld Grinder this afternoon. Money is tight, so I was only able to pick up the steel today, but that should be enough to keep me busy while I scrounge around for some wheels and a motor. Bruce's picture of that nice, shiny KMG isn't helping my motivation any, but you gotta do what you gotta do. Who knew the residential construction market was going to crash and take my life style with it? :D

DSCN2157.jpg
 
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