The next step in the Arete - made by Fiddleback.

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Mar 19, 2007
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I am not sure if any of you remember the project that Andy, Rotte, and I have been involved in.

For the full story check out this thread:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682848

Andy made a prototype, I had it for a while and thought it about it for a time. I changed some of the specs a little and I am sure it will change more before it is done.

But here is my drawing:

arete0001.jpg


I think it is about as right as I can think of it right now - I am anxious to see what Andy does in its execution.

TF
 
looks like a great design TF...:thumbup: looking forward to seeing Andy's finished product...
 
This is odd. I actually just read that thread all the way through yesterday. It sounds like it has come a long way thus far. Very nice.
 
A solid design. I like the fact that it is still, definitely an Andy Roy knife.:)

What can I say? I'm a fan.:D
 
G'day TF

I like the look of this one.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product :thumbup:




Kind regards
Mick
 
Okay - I had some advice from Andy and TonyM (I ignored Tony's advice - mostly because that guy is a tool) - and did a slight redraw:

Arete0002.jpg


I think this is final.

TF
 
Okay - I had some advice from Andy and TonyM (I ignored Tony's advice - mostly because that guy is a tool) - and did a slight redraw:

I think this is final.

TF

You have the design skill of a blind, crackhead, with genital worts:thumbdn:
 
If you are going to comment about Tony's face looking like a box full of smashed assholes - we all know that.

But please, feel free to comment on the knife.

TF
 
Well, the lover's fight aside... : )

I like the knife, in just about every way.

I like the contours of the handle, I like the proportions, I like the edge proportions (curved vs flat), I like the minimal guard.

I would mirror what as been said by others (at other times), that you may want a bit more space between the front of the scale and where the edge starts. Ease of sharpening.

And, it looks like you used the same curve from the tip to the ricasso on the edge as on the spine, so you have a real spear point shape. I would suggest for the type of knife it is, that you might want a more acute point (a pointier point), which you can accomplish by having less drop in the spine to the point. Maybe use a slower curve that starts a bit farther back.

I hope that makes sense, I don't have a professional language for it, I just make it up as I go...

Best,
Marion
 
Looks good! It's been through quite an evolution! Looking forward to the finished product!:thumbup:


To give a little input, and these are only minor details based on my preference, I would move the lanyard just a hair in and up, giving a little more metal around it at the pommel, equidistant, for a little more strength if ever striking there, as it seems a bit thin.
And I don't see a need to taper the swell so thin towards the pommel, I like the extra handle meat there good for grip and spreading fingers on different grips, as deep concaves cause fingers to bunch up somewhat at the lowest point, making it feel a little crowded... I find generally, exaggerated swells and contours make for less comfort, than subtle contours do...

As for more space between grind and ricasso for ease of sharpening, from my experience I find close shaving work as with fuzzsticks and other to be much better done with an edge such as the one you have designed. The BHK Boat Tail goes almost all the way to the scales, and it is one of the aspects of the blade that I find practical and very useful... I don't really find it to be an issue when sharpening/honing...
 
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To give a little input, and these are only minor details based on my preference, I would move the lanyard just a hair in and up, giving a little more metal around it at the pommel, equidistant, for a little more strength if ever striking there, as it seems a bit thin.
And I don't see a need to taper the swell so thin towards the pommel, I like the extra handle meat there good for grip and spreading fingers on different grips, as deep concaves cause fingers to bunch up somewhat at the lowest point, making it feel a little crowded... I find generally, exaggerated swells and contours make for less comfort, than subtle contours do...
g...


Absolutely PJ!!!:thumbup::thumbup:

That is what I have been telling the knucklehead!!

He has seen the light and is going to again redraw it:)
 
It is kind of neat to read the collaboration as the knife design develops. The jibes between Tal and TonyM just add to the sense of being in the shop as the work progresses.

So much of the knifemaker talk I recall is technical and professionally-polished, it is refreshing to read the comments of friends having fun designing a blade, handle, and construct.

I like fun.
 
Already redrawn. Thanks for the comments PJ - I was redrawing the swells last night and saw them getting less deep and worried about that detail - but I think you are right.

Marion,

I redrew that tip a few times - and I think the way I have it is right. I like a pointy spear point too - but I think with the wider blade that it just looks funky on this blade. The Aurora is very pointy - but it is .5 inches longer and can taper over a longer distance.

I will look at it again.

Thanks to everyone besides Tony for the advice.

TF
 
OKay - last adjustments made. It is off to Andy Tomorrow!

Arete0003.jpg


I misdrew one dimension at the tip - it should start at the 2.5 inch line - not be 3.5 inches wide! ;)

TF
 
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