The ongoing project SH (pics)

mogmz

mogmz

Joined
Sep 1, 2002
Messages
977
This is where I left off last time with the fatty SH. The coating has been removed and its been given a symmetrical edge.
SH_before.jpg


Today I added the clip point that Ive been putting off. It took about an hour as I had to keep letting it soak in ice-water after every 20 seconds or so of grinding. This kept the edge cool to the touch throughout the process so that the temper would be unaffected.
SH_after.jpg


Next up is to finish the blade to a nice 600 grit (but I'm in no hurry ;) ).

Ive beat the snot out of this knife since I bought it and it just keeps going strong. Now with the clip point, it is damn near the perfect camp knife for me.
 
I must say, nice work. You got a hell of a knife there. I put an 800 grit finish on my BA3. 3 or 4 sheets, 12 beers, and 2 football games and you're there.:)
 
Nice! I wouldn't have touched that INFI fatty but heh, still very nice :D

Are you gonna remove the scales?
 
Originally posted by Andrew Lynch
Nice! I wouldn't have touched that INFI fatty but heh, still very nice :D

Are you gonna remove the scales?
Click to expand...

That is the question I was going to be asking before I started sanding. I would really like to remove the scales so I can sand down everything, but I didn't know if they are held on by epoxy as well.

Has anyone removed scales held on by the slotted bolts? I know the tube fasteners must be drilled out, but what about the bolts?

Jerry, anyone.. HELP!
 
That looks great. How hard was it to finally put it on the grinder? I'd be afraid that I would screw it up.......Good work, it does look perfect now.

Cerberus
 
Eric,
I like your work. Good job. I don't dare try that on mine because it would end up looking like a serrated Rambo filet knife with a reverse tanto tip:eek:

So in such a case, Jerry, how much does it cost to have a new edge, polished finish and penetrator tip along with the new Fusion scales on an old SH and an old DM. Maybe I should email you on that, let me know.
 
VERY nice Eric! I happen to have that knife's twin, but lack the cajones to try what you did. Hell, it would probably take a case of beer just to work up the courage to put paint remover on the finish. Grinding is just way beyond the pale. I have neither the expertise or the equipment to even think about that. Mainly lack of expertise. But I can hold mine up to the monitor and show it its' handsome twin.:D

Wet
 
Cerberus- once I removed the finish I decided it was going to be a user and I would never sell it. I was most worried about messing up the heat treat, but as long as you take your time, there is nothing to be worried about. Oh, and no, I wouldn't use a regular 'grinder' to do this, I used a belt grinder with a 50 grit belt.

Wet- Pick a user blade that NEEDS something modified to fit you better. Then just get yourself a belt sander(way cheaper then a table belt grinder), some heavy duty canvas backed metal sandpaper, and maybe a file or two. With those you can modify just about anything on a knife. The most important thing is to take your time.

Skunk- Where can I get this 'kroil gun oil solvent' at?
 
I don't think that there would be a problem selling it if you ever decide to do so......I think that there are a few here that would love to have a clip like that on their SH, myself included!:D

Once again...Great work.

Cerberus
 
Kroil-The oil that creeps. Brownells for sure and probably some other places I can't think of off hand. Brownells has the gallon size if you have rusted stuff you need to let soak (bbls,mechanisms and whatnot) Reloading supply companys usually carry it also, but if you order from Brownells you also get the 3 1/2-5lb catalog for free. It's huge if you've never seen one.

Rob
 
why can't you just use break free to loosen the bolts? or some other oil. Will these oils damage the micarta?
 
No it won't damage the micarta but the bolts may be cemented or epoxied. Not sure on these ones.
 
Gotcha. And the oil mentioned is the best oe to use or can other oils be used, like more easily available ones??
 
Originally posted by SpearHead
No it won't damage the micarta but the bolts may be cemented or epoxied. Not sure on these ones.
Click to expand...

This comes up now and again.....I think the official answer from Jerry was that some were set with additional adhesive and some were not.
 
The thing about a drop point on a big all purpose knife is that it doesn't perform very well when it comes to penetration or a 'thrusting action'. If I was to only use it for chopping wood that would be one thing. But should the need arise that I have to stab anything with it, it takes a lot more force to drive that big thick drop point blade into your target (whatever that may be ;) )

I left the clip flat and chose not to put a false edge on it so that the material still remains fairly thick all the way to the tip. Though as I look at it more and more, I might still add a false edge or even a sharpened clip for all that much more of a point. This SH is a 5/16" version so it is still plenty thick at the mid section (half way between the spine and edge), and I have no worries of tip breakage.
 
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