The Order of Strop

[OutdoorsFamilyMan4]

When it comes to the stropping stage, thats where I get lost (who am I kidding, I am lost from the moment my knife goes dull)--Could someone please put in order from first stage to last stage the order of stropping (I know that all these steps dont need to be taken I just want to know where they are in relation to the rest of the steps)

Bare leather (rough side)
Bare leather (smooth side)
green compound (applied to rough side, right?)
black compound (ditto)
white compound(ditto)
any other steps involving stropping that I missed

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

When it comes to the stropping stage, thats where I get lost (who am I kidding, I am lost from the moment my knife goes dull)--Could someone please put in order from first stage to last stage the order of stropping (I know that all these steps dont need to be taken I just want to know where they are in relation to the rest of the steps)

Bare leather (rough side)
Bare leather (smooth side)
green compound (applied to rough side, right?)
black compound (ditto)
white compound(ditto)
any other steps involving stropping that I missed

For compounds, the green will almost always come after either the black or white, but before the bare leather; green is almost always chromium oxide at smaller particle size (often ~1 micron or less, down to about ~0.5 micron). Unfortunately, the 'black' and 'white' descriptors can imply a very wide range of possibilities, in terms of abrasive type (silicon carbide, corundum are usually 'black'/dark; aluminum oxide, tin oxide, talc and probably others can all be 'white'). They both will also be found in a large array of grit size. It's best to at least get all your compounds from one maker/vendor, who should also specify the order in which they should be used. There's no guarantee of a correct sequence based only on the color, especially if bought from a variety of makers/vendors.

Oftentimes though, you'll frequently see a sequence of black > white > green > bare leather. The 'bare leather' can be either smooth or rough side; that usually is a preference issue, and one doesn't necesarily need to use both in a sequence (but you can if you want to). I think most who use bare leather as a finishing step, usually do so on the smooth side.


David

 

[OutdoorsFamilyMan4]

Thanks for your thoroughness, David. So if I was going to make a double sided strop, what would you recommend? Side 1: Green compound on rough side of leather
Side 2: Bare leather smooth side?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thanks for your thoroughness, David. So if I was going to make a double sided strop, what would you recommend? Side 1: Green compound on rough side of leather
Side 2: Bare leather smooth side?

That's a pretty common configuration. Regarding doublesided strops, there's some additional risk of contaminating one side or the other during use. If used on a bench or table, the 'down' side will usually pick up stray particles of dirt/stone abrasive/etc, which might eventually compromise the effectiveness of the strop, especially with very fine compounds and/or bare leather. The detrimental effects of the dirt & other grit are more noticeable when they interfere with the very fine polishing done at the finishing stages.

Most of the 'experts' prefer to use a single-sided strop for this reason. When making your own, the materials are cheap anyway. So, there's not much to be lost, and more to be gained, by making separate strops each with their own dedicated compound.


David

 

[Jason B.]

The rough side is the back side, you don't use that.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

The rough side is the back side, you don't use that.

Some of us do, with compound in particular. Not as often used bare (for me). To each his own.

For me, a lot of that 'option' comes down to how uniform the back side is, in texture. It oftentimes is too rough and/or irregular in texture, and I'll avoid it. But sometimes, depending on the individual piece of leather, I do like the 'rough' side, especially if it has a somewhat softer nap to it (which holds compound very well). I have a leather belt that I use with green compound on the inside face (rough side, which is still relatively soft/nappy in texture). I then will occasionally use the smooth side after that, though not always (this has more to do with avoiding scratching/cutting the smooth side of my belt ).


David

 

[stitchawl]

The rough side is the back side, you don't use that.

If the back side is smooth enough (naturally or sanded,) and firm, there is no reason not to use it. It will function the same way as an interrupted diamond plate; the spaces between the raised areas just don't contact the blade. You have to take double the number of strokes to achieve the final result. No harm, just more work.

Personally, I 'prefer' to use the smooth side when stropping, and as leather is certainly cheap enough ($12-$15 for enough for 4 strops) there is no reason not to. This is only a personal and cosmetic preference. When stropping, the 'action' is taking place at a microscopic level. The compound or natural silicates are found in contact with the blade on the higher points of the strop rather than making full 100% contact with the edge. Unless one is using Johanssan Blocks as a base, it's these high points that will make the difference. The more there are, the more efficient the stropping. The 'smoothness' of the strop isn't adding or taking away from the grit size.


Stitchawl

 

[Brisket]

I use the smooth side in most cases. With leather belts for a sander I like to use the rough side for compound so that I can flip the belt over and use the smooth side without compound. I do the same thing with small but thick piece of leather I use for a compact hand held field strop.