The perfect Sharpmaker technique?

I

Ilikesharpstuff

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Jan 19, 2009
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I've had my Sharpmaker for a while, and the UF stones for the past few months, so I'd like to think I know what I'm doing.

I hear a lot of guys talking about getting tree topping, hair whittling edges from their FINE rods, much less the UF that I shelled out $34 for. Now, this is not to say that my knives don't get sharp, as I can shave easily when I get done with a knife, but shaving is where it ends.

I follow the technique that Sal teaches in the Sharpmaker video, and when I move on to the UF rods I just use the flat side until I'm satisfied.

So, what's the secret? How do you get the perfect edge with the Sharpmaker?
 
I think the secret is: thin, even edge bevels. If they're not thin enough, then you'll just end up with nicely polished thicker edge bevels which will still cut, but not as well.

I'm sure you'll get more elaborate and expert opinions shortly.
 
Not an expert, and not elaborate :) ... IMO the biggest 'secret' is to use very little pressure. Especially when finishing, you want to go just about as light as possible.
 
Dog of War said:
Not an expert, and not elaborate :) ... IMO the biggest 'secret' is to use very little pressure. Especially when finishing, you want to go just about as light as possible.
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That's it. :thumbup:

With light (knife weight only) pressure and even smooth strokes you will get hair splitting levels of sharpness.
 
My advice, before you go for that final molecule splitting edge give the UF rods a good cleaning.
 
I clean whenever they're visibly dirty.

Anybody got anything else, or is light pressure the only difference?
 
Light pressure at the end and getting the most out of every stone are some of the biggest factors when sharpening to a extreme level. If you are only doing 20 or 30 strokes with each stone set then that's not enough try 100-200. Starting with the brown stones your edge should be hair popping sharp and only get better from their, you should also be watching your scratch pattern on the bevel. After 5 or so strokes stop and inspect to make sure you are still grinding the same point and that the new finer scratch pattern you are creating is removing the old one.
 
if you do not have honing oil for your stones what else can be used? its an arkansas stone.
 
I have not used one yet (soon will though), but I take the secret to be what was mentioned above already. Use as little pressure as possible. I'd say to let gravity do it's work and only hold on to the blade so it doesn't just fall from your hands and stabs you on your big toe.
 
Like everyone else is saying light pressure is the key with the SM, especially if you are using the corners of the rods. On a non-recurve/hawkbill/SE I use only the flats, as you are spreading the pressure over a larger section of the edge. In fact, this is why I went to benchstones, as they offer a greater contact area to lessen the pressure and unwanted burring. If you have to use the corners, like I do with my Superhawk and SE Endura, just go super light and do like Knifenut said by looking at the scratch pattern often. I also have been sticking lapping film to my rods to get a super polished edge with the most minimal burr I can achieve (not visible under 100x) for finishing, so for those wanting more pop to their edges than the UF rods provide #m lapping film in 1 micron and les are nice to use.

Mike
 
Ilikesharpstuff said:
Where do you get lapping film?
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I got my 1 micron and .3 micron (they have coarser grits as well) from tools For Working Wood. It is about $10 for 5-8 1/2" by 11" sheets in each grit for the PSA backed stuff (that means it sticks to things). I get my .05 micron stuff from PSI Dragon. They rip you off on shipping, but it is the only place to get the lapping film that fine that I have found. It is $4 a sheet for the PSA backed stuff (when I ordered last time it wasn't available with the PSA backing), which you would need for the Sharpmaker. I only have the non-PSA stuff now, but an order of the PSA backed stuff is on it's way to me now. I usually use my lapping film on a 3" by 11" glass plate, but found that my left overs from that stuck nicely on the sharpmaker rods.

Mike
 
I'll say it again. Light pressure on the 30-degree setting.

You can go even sharper if you reprofile to less than 30-degrees. All you have to do is tilt the spine a bit toward the stone instead of vertical. I did this with one of my paring knives, (Bos-treated CPM154), and it will shave my face comfortably.
 
As I remember from record thread, some people who were able to do hair whitteling with sharpmaker did hold it in the air by one hand when sharpening by another. This prevents too much pressure on the edge. I did not try it myself, but you may look at that thread for yourself.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
nozh2002 said:
As I remember from record thread, some people who were able to do hair whitteling with sharpmaker did hold it in the air by one hand when sharpening by another. This prevents too much pressure on the edge. I did not try it myself, but you may look at that thread for yourself.

Thanks, Vassili.
Click to expand...

It also prevents a consistent angle from being achieved.
 
I don't know why, but there is a world of difference in sharpness when I prep the edge on a DMT and then go to the SharpMaker rods.
 
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