The Stabilization Process??

meako

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Just out of interest can anyone briefly and in simpletons terms explain "stabilization" to me .
I ask because I have some antler and I'm thinking about one of those RR DIY knife kits and swap the wood scales for the antler.

cheers
 
whatever your stabilizing goes into a vacuum chamber. then once all the air is removed stabilization resin (epoxy type stuff) is pumped in. then the pressure is brought to like 10 times or atmosphere's pressure and the resin is forced into the material.
 
There's no need to stabilize antler, just cut and install, although you might want to give it a year or so indoors to cure.

Eric
 
Yes EA42 is correct it does need to be dry or it will shrink a little a year is just long enough longer would be better
 
whatever your stabilizing goes into a vacuum chamber. then once all the air is removed stabilization resin (epoxy type stuff) is pumped in. then the pressure is brought to like 10 times or atmosphere's pressure and the resin is forced into the material.

Wow, didn't know that.

There's no need to stabilize antler, just cut and install, although you might want to give it a year or so indoors to cure.

Eric

:thumbup:

Nice project Meako :)
 
thanks guys-the antler pieces should be well dried out by now I think.
 
Hope it wasn't poached off a pub wall! :D ;)

Jack

:D

:confused::

jobtwins001.jpg


jobtwins002.jpg

;)

~ P.
 
There's a pub at King's Cross in London with a vast stag's head on the wall. Problem is that it's only about 5ft off the ground! I dare say it has to listen to a lot of drunken conversation! :D
 
Strictly speaking stabilisation doesn't require the vacuum process, but vacuum and pressure aids deeper penetration of the resin before it cures.
You can home stabilise with dry rot wood hardener, but it has a tendency to leak on hot days.
 
Strictly speaking stabilisation doesn't require the vacuum process, but vacuum and pressure aids deeper penetration of the resin before it cures.
You can home stabilise with dry rot wood hardener, but it has a tendency to leak on hot days.
Hmmm... I would have said the opposite, that stabilization does not require the high-pressure process. I used to have a job where we would remove air bubbles from epoxy in molds by putting them in a vaccuum chamber. When the air was removed, there was nothing to keep the epoxy from flowing into every nook and cranny.
I can see where the high pressure could force the resin in deeper into the holes in the wood fibers. But again, removing the air allows the resin to flow through capillary action. Not sure about structure of antler.
 
Hope it wasn't poached off a pub wall! :D ;)

Jack
Well one I found just lying around after it had dropped off the stags head(not a pub name btw). It is smooth ,white and I'd say very stable.
A fresh set came from a traffic victim up on the mountain-very popcorny only just finished growing before he got knocked off I reckon.I'm keeping them though.
I've got some other offcuts which I think will do the job.They are over 2 years old .Nothing to lose really.
I'll give it a go.
 
If you're doing a Rough rider slippie you'll be cutting the scales very thin from the surface of the antler where it's dense, you won't need to stabilize unless it's very fresh antler. Crazy glue works great for small fill ins. The picture shows a sheath I just made from very porous Moose antler that I pretty much drenched in crazy glue.

Have fun
Best regards

Robin
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Robin that looks AWESOME what a great job! I don't think I've ever seen one I like better..WOW even
 
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The RR kit is fun project. I did one sometimes ago. I used snakewood instead the wired material they add as scales.
Mike
 
There's a pub at King's Cross in London with a vast stag's head on the wall. Problem is that it's only about 5ft off the ground! I dare say it has to listen to a lot of drunken conversation! :D

Now Jack, that is funny :D:D:D

Paul
 
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