The steepest edge I've ever sharpened.

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Feb 21, 2012
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Here I have a 1917 US Gunners knife that my collector boss sold me a few months ago. The knifes primary intended use was to chop brush in front of a machine gunners position, but during the course of battle, gunners found that it was excellent at quite literally lopping the limbs off your enemies. However, this ones edge had blunted beyond even chipping wood.
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It's got clear and identifiable stamps, and with the added confirmation from my boss, I got the real deal here.
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A couple notable specs is that the blade is 10 inches of quarter inch steel, pictured here at the spine next to my BK2
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And of course, a full tang handle with some sort of spike on the end.
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I'm typically known at my unit for putting an excellent edge on just about every knife, and many guys pay me to sharpen their tools, so I get to handle all sorts of knives and edges. In my 2 years of doing this, I've never had to sharpen a knife with an edge this steep. While it's only steep on the one side, I estimate that it's included angle is somewhere between 60-70 degrees at its belly- which is more than most hatchets and some axes that I've sharpened. I played with idea of using a file to sharpen it, like I do with axes, but I decided there is no way I can hold the knife stiff enough with one hand on the knife and a file on the other to give it a pretty looking edge. So I broke out my 800 grit diamond stone and spent nearly an hour on it. It was a lot of experimenting, and I ended up with a lot of marks that weren't even close to the edge, but I was ok with giving everything about a centimetre from the edge a bit of a polishing as it looked like someone before me had also tried sharpening it, but quickly gave up due to its steepness. The following photo shows roughly how steep I had to put the knife on the stone before the stone met the edge at a good angle.
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And here is how steep the edge itself looks after sharpening.
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After about an hour, I finally made it cut paper. It's obviously a little bit rough, but it gets through paper and that makes me happy at that angle! I can do this with axes as well, but I typically choose to put a much rounder edge on those to prolong effective use since most of my customers are pretty abusive with their tools.
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Satisfied with that, I used one of my brown Spyderco Ceramic stones to clean up the whole edge but keep that rough old used look.
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Obviously those cuts could have been made with any knife, and the Gunners knife stuck in there for the photo, so here's a video of it in action!
[video=youtube;FKttK5H-Ddg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FKttK5H-Ddg[/video]

I'd say it's ready to lop some heads off! And with that angle, I'd reckon it could probably get through quite a few before needing another sharpening.

Thanks for reading! Please share any experiences you may have with steep edges on knives like this.
 
I have one of those with the experimental pressed tin scabbard. The blades on these were convex chisel-ground as a common use for them was as a trowel, and often they bear a distinctive wear pattern on the tip from being repeatedly plunged into the dirt. I'd hate having to sharpen one up, but they're nifty knives.
 
good job. I have had knives that had so much metal at the edge that I spent hours grinding it down to a workable edge.
 
Belt grinder, fellas....it's the answer to your prayers!

If size and portability are a concern, consider a Work Sharp

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
That looks nifty! Could you suggest a dealer in Canada?

They are available all over the web, Amazon has them. I have never seen them in a shop here in the States, so I can't really recommend a dealer, sorry.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
The Harbor Freight 1x30 makes a good beginner option for a light duty belt grinder, too.
 
I don’t have much use for wide bevels on a knife but for my woodworking sometimes it is the only way to roll.

The blades are hand plane blades for making the final finish on a wood surface. In this case on a particularly hard, abrasive and cantankerous wood called bubinga.



The blades are made from A2.
I love my hard Arkansas stone. A translucent stone they call it. See photo with light behind the stone.
In the case of A2 the blade totally dominates the stone and polishes the stone/wears the stone smooth without altering the sharpness of the blade edge. See the shiny place on the hard Ark stone. The whole surface is like that. I had to take that glaze off with a diamond stone.





Special stones are required to even touch the A2. See the colored stones which are Shapton Pro stones. There are blades much, much, much harder than the A2 though. I realize that !


Anyway see the blades laid out on the cloth. I go as wide an angle as 54°. It is put in the tool at an angle of 20° so the effective cutting angle of the edge to the wood is 74°.
Scary huh ?
All these are sharpened in a jig with no stropping and are carve a curl off a hair sharp. Polished to 8000 to 15000 grit. Totally flat back and flat bevel (no convexitude dude).




The results are demonstrated by the mirror finish on the end grain of the two inch thick plank. That is just bare wood; no finish on it yet. I very rarely use the 54° blade and never on end grain but it is easily capable of that mirror finish. The down side is cutting effort required to push the plane. I always use the shallowest angle I can get away with to reduce effort.


How’s that for a shunt out to left field ?
Carry on . . .
 
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