The Trinity of Essential Bonded Abrasives

FortyTwoBlades

Baryonyx walkeri
Dealer / Materials Provider
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We're all familiar with bonded abrasives--synthetic stones usually made of aluminum oxide or silicon carbide. Despite the prevalence of natural, diamond, and ceramic stones, bonded abrasives remain the humble workhorses of manual sharpening equipment. The familiar old dual grit rectangular "crystolon" or "India" stones are obviously the most widely known, but there are three relatively unsung heroes that deserve much more attention. At least one you have almost certainly at least heard of, another you might or might not have seen before, and the last you more likely than not haven't seen at all. I present them all below:

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The Puck

This is the fellow you probably know well. Most commonly found in a coarse/medium dual grit, though single grit and natural versions exist, the puck stone is a highly portable grinding stone you can hold in the palm of your hand. Usually used in a circular "scrubbing" motion, these stones will rapidly form and shape flat or convex bevels on a variety of tools, and their compact form and short strokes allows them to reach low angles without experiencing clearance issues on edged tools that have any sort of raised lip to them behind the edge. Often referred to as an axe stone due to their common usage in beveling and sharpening the tool, they are also useful for applying bevels and rough edges to machetes, cleavers, shovels, hoes, mattocks, and more, as well as repairing heavy damage on the edges of finer-edged tools before progressing to more refined grits.

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The Canoe Stone

Also known as a "lawn & garden" stone or a scythe stone, you may or may not have seen these fellows before. My preferred stone for general sharpening tasks, the broad flats may be used for upwept (conventional) and straight-edged blade forms and to produce flat or convex edges while the curved, tapered edges may be used with a rolling stroke to produce hollow bevels, and is particularly well-suited to forward-curving blades like pruning knives, scythes, sickles, and billhooks as well as recurved blades like kukris. Also found in fine natural stones, though sometimes only the curved edges will be worked smooth. The shape of these stones can be understood as the intersection of two circles, like the center overlap of a Venn diagram. As such, each curved edge is like a small section cut from the edge of a large diameter grinding wheel. The reason for the use of a rolling stroke is to keep the angle constant in spite of the curve, mimicking the rotation of a grinding wheel in action. This also provides good clearance in the case of raised lips on blades in spite of the long stroke of the stone, allowing a lower angle of approach than a flat stone of equal length could otherwise produce or maintain. An extremely versatile stone shape.

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The Cigar Stone

Some of you might have seen these before, but I reckon if you have you're the exception to the majority. These stones, also known as American pattern scythe stones, have almost disappeared from the market. The lenticular (lentil or lens shaped) cross section allows it to be used for both upswept and forward-swept blade profiles, and produces flat or convex bevels. The ability to be used on both forward and rearward curving blades without having to modify your hold on the stone or roll the wrist allows the user to rapidly develop proficiency in holding a consistent angle or for the experienced user to be able to sharpen a tool with little attention given to the task beyond getting the angle where they want it. A stone of great convenience.

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Lansky makes both the puck and canoe stone shone here. The cigar stone is a circa 1940's stone made by the Carborundum Company, which was bought out by Norton/Saint Gobain in 1990. Lansky makes a VERY coarse cigar stone with a ridged surface that makes it suitable only for very rough forming. Norton makes a smooth cigar stone in a coarse 120 grit but can make them to custom order 320 grit. I plan on carrying them in the near future, as I only recently discovered that anyone still made them in an untextured form. :)
 
Opinel also markets one of the 'canoe' stones (not bonded abrasive, but a natural stone from the so-called 'Lombardi' quarry of Italy). Described as a "uniform balance of quartz and carbonates", they recommend using it with water. They also have a rectangular stone of the same natural origin. Haven't tried either, but the canoe stone looks interesting:

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David
 
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Most scythe stones in Europe right now come from Bergamo, Italy from a single maker. Funny that Opinel should opt for an Italian stone, though, as France does have a good source of scythe stones. Pierre a Aiguisere produces several models of canoe stones and is, in fact, the only maker of a fine natural cigar stone that I've seen.
 
Most scythe stones in Europe right now come from Bergamo, Italy from a single maker. Funny that Opinel should opt for an Italian stone, though, as France does have a good source of scythe stones. Pierre a Aiguisere produces several models of canoe stones and is, in fact, the only maker of a fine natural cigar stone that I've seen.

I scratched my head over that, too. But I'll give them credit for at least sticking to 'old school' with this natural stone, as with the character of their knives. :)


David
 
Never tried the latter two but I have a well used puck in my truck just in case.

Edit: Hey that rhymes:)
 
Water with the canoe and cigar stones. Many will tell you the puck stone is an oil stone, but I use water with it as well with good results. I never use oil--if I need to break surface tension I just add a drop of dish soap to the water.
 
Water with the canoe and cigar stones. Many will tell you the puck stone is an oil stone, but I use water with it as well with good results. I never use oil--if I need to break surface tension I just add a drop of dish soap to the water.

Stones like this that are intended to be brought to the tool don't work well with oil, even if it would normally be a good idea considering the type of abrasive and how its bonded. I normally use them dry or with a splash of water and just give them a good scrub when they load up. Will try to get a pick of the cigar-type stone I made by cutting one of my bench stones lengthwise with a diamond sawsall blade and shaping the halves a bit.

This thread already had me dig up my Norton puck - is pretty thin compared to other brands.
 
I have an old ceramic puck from "Japan Woodworker" that I use for flattening water stones. I suppose that it could be used for a sharpening stone in emergency.
 
Stones like this that are intended to be brought to the tool don't work well with oil, even if it would normally be a good idea considering the type of abrasive and how its bonded. I normally use them dry or with a splash of water and just give them a good scrub when they load up. Will try to get a pick of the cigar-type stone I made by cutting one of my bench stones lengthwise with a diamond sawsall blade and shaping the halves a bit.

This thread already had me dig up my Norton puck - is pretty thin compared to other brands.

Yeah I carry the canoe or cigar stones in the field in a horn whetstone holder clipped on my belt filled half way with water. You can see it on my hip here:

[video=youtube;VPGvy1TM3YA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPGvy1TM3YA[/video]
 
Sadly, I found my (neglected) homemade "canoe" stone. Was originally one half of an inexpensive aluminum oxide combination stone. I cut it down the middle and then ground it into shape on a large machine stone, approx 60 grit. Worked well on machetes, honestly never used it that much. Should've wrapped it up better...

On the plus side, my Norton puck is still around and in great shape. These are a bit thinner than many of the other brands out there, also a combination stone and a perfect fit to use my coffee cup for a stand. Had to put an edge on one of the beater knives at work, finished by 'steeling' it on the rim of the cup and turned out very sharp - is a perfect combo, Norton should sell this as a kit with a logo'd coffee cup.

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That looks a bit more similar to an English pattern scythe stone (what I like to refer to as a "torpedo" stone) without any taper to it. They're basically what you would get if you took a canoe stone and gave it a round cross section instead of rectangular.
 
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