The Ultimate Survival Knife

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BowlesKnives

Joined
Jun 10, 2002
Messages
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What would be the perfect (if there is one) survival knife. What style, length, thickness, steel, handle material, ect. What kind of carry method? Kydex or Leather? What kind of grind, Hollow or Flat?


Keep It Sharp,

Chris Bowles
www.bowlesknives.com
 
BowlesKnives,

Chris, welcome to the forums.

This question comes up fairly often. If you do a search under "survival knife" (use the search button on the top bar) you will pull up more information than we can possibly provide you on this thread. The answer to your question depends on who you are and how you like to use your knives; on how and where you plan to survive in; and, on what other equipment and resorces will be available to you. There is no one best knife, but we do have plenty of information.

Enjoy.

n2s
 
Mr.Bowles first let me say I realy like your knives and hope to order one one of these days.
As for your question
I like a blade 9 inches long, reasons, thats what im use to, I can chop and clean game well with a 9 inch blade.
Steel,I like a carbon steel/1095/5160/52100,and the thickness 1/4 2 inches wide.
As for the sheath for me it doesnt matter I like kydex and I also like the way leather looks,for a big blade I feel you can use a leather sheath to strop your blade.
Handle material,I love micarta.
And the grind,Ive used deep hollow grinds and dont find them to chop as good as a flat grind,for me I dont get that deep chop like I do with a flat grind,Also a flat grind it cuts and chops well where the hollow cuts very well but doesnt chop well.
Sorry if I sound like a idiot but I got kicked in the head about 2 hrs ago by a bull and am a little dizzy:confused:
If wondering how I got kicked in the head,im a bullrider and it wasnt the first time ive been kicked:D
 
What would be the perfect (if there is one) survival knife.

I'm of the 'two blades' group.

What style,
for the large knife spear point; for the small knife clip point

length,
large 7 inch; small 2.75 inch

thickness,
large 5/32 inch; small 1/8 inch or even less

steel,
large A2; small S30

handle material,
large canvas micarta; small linen micarta both enclosed if possible; there is a lot of work

What kind of carry method? Kydex or Leather?
Kydex and since I'm a lefty ambi

What kind of grind, Hollow or Flat?

full convex (I love my marbles)

Ben
 
My ideal combo would be a large chopper of 1095 differentially hardened with an edge in the 56 range. Probably 9"-1/4" blade, bow drill divot, wire breaker and paracord wrapped ala Strider. The small knife would have a 2.75" drop point in BG42 or S30V in a removeable sheath to convert to neck knife.
 
A Rinaldi Megiddo with 10" of 3V and an enlarged choil for choking up would just make me quiver!

I really like the looks of your SK-1 and SK-2 (and 3, and 5), btw. Nice shape to the handles, too.
See you're in Reform. I'm about an hour and a half away, in Springville, just north of B'ham.
Welcome to the forums, neighbor!
 
Your SK-2 looks pretty solid to me for areas of mainly woody vegetation. Have you tried it with a handle similar to the SK-1? What is the minimum edge geometry (angle / thickness) you would run for wood work (no bone chopping). What are the hardness specifics - edge/spine ? Is the primary grind full flat?

The SK-3 looks nice for areas of lighter vegetation. Combine which ever one of these (SK3/5) is best suited to your common vegetation, with the HK-3 or HK-5 to save your wrist some strain on lighter work, and you are set. Throw in a small folding saw to make life easier in areas of harder wood.

-Cliff
 
Mr. Cliff,

No I have not switched handles on the SK-2 and SK-1. They both feature a droped handle design. The SK-1 has a much more drop in it though. The SK-1 chops simialar to a small kukri just with more control and less weight. As far as the edge geometry andgles, I have no idea I have never took the time to measure them. I just go by what I know is right. Kind of like when grandma use to say "a shot of this and a pinch of that". The edge thickness before I put the final edge on is 0.030 on small knives and 0.042 on big blades. The spine is 42-48rc and the edge is 58-59Rc I offer two grinds; a tall hollow grind (usually 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" high, most knives only have 3/4 to 1 inch.) Then there is a full flat grind with distal taper and a convex edge similar to what the forging guys do. Yes a big blade does get heavy on the wrist, but it does get the job done quicker. Let me know if you have any more questions and I will be happy to answer them.

Mr. Owen feel free to come on up to the shop oneday and we will see what we can make and tear up.

Keep It Sharp,

Chris Bowles
www.bowlesknives.com
 
My opinions on the best survival knife...... For ocean travel or sea travel A stainless 4-5 inch blade in a spear point design.For desert travel a relatively thicker blade in the 5-7 inch range for digging or prying and ocasional chopping.This would be carbon,1095 or infi,or 01,or even D2.For jungle travel I would prefer a 6-9 inch blade in coated carbon or possibly stainless.Once again in the above carbons or aus-6a,but not 440c I just dont like 440,.For your average climate woodlands anything in the 5-7 inch range in any good carbon steel,coated or uncoated.For arctic travel I would like a bigger knife for expedient "shoveling" or for wood chopping for heat,something in the 9-10 inch range.Of course whatever you have with you at the time is better than nothing,and there are of course exceptions to all of these choices such as a machete would be better in the jungle and an axe in the arctic would be ideal.But generally I feel that the best side carry survival knife is a 6 or 7 inch blade,in coated carbon steel with a spear point design.The handle should be of full tang construction with micarta slabs and at least one thong hole for lashing.No hollow handles unless its a Reeve.The sheath should be cordura with an accessory pouch and have multiple lashing points.These are just mt humble opinions.
 
I checked your website and your knives look good. There are a lot of very thick surivival knives out there and they are fine for what they do, but I agree thinner blades are actually more useful. You might want to look into using L-6 steel for the big blades. They are tougher and have identical heat treat temps as O-1.

Personally I like Kydex sheaths, especially the rare ones with a thin cordura lining on the inside for quietness.
 
Originally posted by BowlesKnives
Mr. Owen feel free to come on up to the shop oneday and we will see what we can make and tear up.
Click to expand...
I'm not down that way too often, but I'd love to. Thanks for the invite.
I'm probably better at tearing up than making, though:)
 
Thanks for the details Chris, it is nice to see some knives in that size range and stock thickness.

-Cliff
 
I'd prefer it to be sharp and in hand!

Survival is about adaptation and never is it by apointment. So do you carry this 'ultimate survival knife' daily?
Everything in the 'Wilds' can be done with a small folder.
 
I don't know if there is a perfect survival knife, but this is what I like...

*5-7 inch blade
*G-10 or Canvas Micarta handle
*Drop Point, or Slight Clip Point
*Preferably Flat Grind
*Comfortable Handle(but still very secure)
*Good Steel(I like INFI, ATS-34, 3V, and S30V)

Jeff
 
Wow Chris, your SK-3 would look great in my machete collection, and the other knives look really nice too. I am curious about why you choose 5/32" stock for the smaller knives? Have you had problems with thinner stock?
 
Mr. Rapaport,

Thanks for looking at the website and the kind words. My personal experience has taught me that the 5/32 is the best thickness for cutting and general toughness. Actually when I say 5/32 it actually ends up being a little less by the time I start with a blank of steel and machine, drill, and grind away the uneeded parts in order to make a well balenced knife. It takes that thickness in order for me to get the balence I desire for my knives to have. The 5/32 performs as good as the 1/8 stock but it has more spine to it. If you go up to 3/16 in a small knife you start picking up alot of weight and the angle on the grind starts getting thick quick (by no way am I saying this is the best thickness and I am not "trashing" another makers or manufacures knives or way they make there knives. I just feel as this is the best way for me to make my knives:) ) Each knife in my shop is custom made by me for each customer, so I will use 1/8-1/4 on any knife if that is what the customer request.
I have never had any problems with 1/8 in the past, since I use zone heat treating on all of my carbon blades. If anyone has any more questions or comments feel free to contact me or post a thread. Thanks

Keep It Sharp,

Chris Bowles
www.bowlesknives.com
 
Is the one in my pocket when I need a blade.


Stryver, who still votes for a pot and a firestarter over a knife
 
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