the woodsmans pal

Joined
Mar 28, 2001
Messages
814
i bought the model with the wood handle, came with good edge and with leather sheath. made in america same factory and family since the 1930's.

took it out to my woodlot, and i will say it preforms as advertized. went to an old fence row and took down a 4 inch cherry tree without much trouble. proceeded to clean up some brush around the base fo a maple tree, the safety tip on the long edge works to avoid dinging the edge if you hit the ground while using it. brush was 1/2 to 2 1/2 inch stuff.
walked down one of the trails i maintain on the property and a 9 inch hemlock had fallen across the trail, i parted that log in about 5-10 minutes with the tool. after this work, the edge was still sharp, no dents, no dings, no rollover. the hook tip will prune 1 inch and under branches with a single pull.

the ergonomics of the tool are friendly, the handle was comfortable, although i always wear gloves, the slight curve of the blade and the tip heavyness add considerabley to the chopping ability of the tool. it is short light and quick, but with enough weight forward to make it very good at chopping woody type vegatation. i have no idea what it does on green vegatation, as there is none now. and one plus the military has a manual on how to fight with the woodsmans pal. just do a woodsmans pal web search.

alex
 
Is there any primary grind on the stock, or is the blade full thickness behind the edge bevel? How does it compare in utility to a simple decent simpler machete patern?

-Cliff
 
What do you guys think about the grip that they advocate in the fighting manual? Looks like a variation of a sabre grip. I'm not sure it would be secure enough for a weapon of that weight.
 
Does anybody else use the Woodsmans Pal? A search on the archive only produced a few hits...

Looks like you could sharpen the blunt end and turn it into an expedient shovel. Seems they sell for about $60.

Cheers,
 
cliff,
there is only the primary grind, the blade is full stock thickness. the hook is made with a chisel bevel on the blade.

alex
 
i forgot, the tool is more blade heavy than a martindale machete that i have, and blade is thicker. as far as handling characteristics there is a lot of mass, and i think this tool relies on speed and mass for its effective chopping power versus the machete which relies more on speed. as more fo the mass is on the tip of the blade it gets some good help in the weight department.the grind is more of a cross between an axe type edge and a machete. i dont know how well this will work on grassy material, but it does respectabley well on woody growth. then again that is what it was developed for-- a forestry tool.

the notch on the hook side of the blade is left over from WWII as a gripping notch so it could be used as a digging tool. it is very sturdily built, and there is not much flex if any at all in the blade.much unlike a machete.


alex
 
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