Thermal Oxidation of Model 42 Bali-Songs

Joined
Nov 25, 1999
Messages
45
As a knife maker I have worked in many different materials and tried different processes in the manufactuer of knives.

One of the areas that I experimented in was thermal colorization of metals, with Titanium being one of the metals that I used.

Thermal colorization of metal will go deeper into the metal, but can be polished off readly. Start with a highly polished set of handles and you can get a better picture of the colors as you heat the handles

Let me say that it is very difficult to melt Ti. It is not something that can be done with a propane torch, let alone a cigerette lighter. Neither one can get hot enough.

Remember the SR-71 BlackBird spy plane had an outter skin made completely of Titanium. And when it flew, the outer skin would glow red from the air friction.

Ti is an excellent conductor of heat and what will happen before you hurt the Ti is that you will ruin your knife, first by taking all of the temper out of the blade screws and the tang portion of the blade and eventiually the blade itself.

If you are going to experiment with thermal colorization of the Ti handles, I recommend that you first remove the blade from the handles if possible.

If that can't be done, then wrap the blade and tang portion of the handles in a wet cloth or better yet, suspend the knife blade over and down into a metal container filled with water and ice. Old coffee cans work well.

You can then use a propane torch to work on the colors.

When you heat the Ti, hold the heat source in one spot on the handles, (the latch area )

The colors will gradually move straight up the handles from the heat source changing colors slowly and then speeding up rather quickly as the heat in the handles increases.

To freeze a color, the handles must be cooled immediately when the desired color is reached or the color will continue to change even
after the heat source is removed.

(Knock the knife into the cooling bath)

The great thing about this is that if you don't get the colors that you want the first time, you can always do it over and over until you get the right colors.
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Good Luck

ChuckG

BTW, Deep Red is not a color that can be obtained in thermal colorization.

I have been told by the people that are doing my anodizing that it is extremely difficult to obtain a red color with anodizing. About the best that can be obtained is a pinkish red.

By the heat method, you will get for the most part a rainbow effect of colors, not one solid color.

[This message has been edited by ChuckG (edited 10-05-2000).]
 
Thanks for all the info. I just got done oxidizing mine, turned out better than I expected. Mostly purples and blues. I filled up a mountain dew bottle that I cut the top off of and filled it up with water to cover the blade and the pivot pins. The sides of the handles with the most surface area proved to be the most difficult part to color, not only in time, but the formation of the color was not uniform.
 
Now there is an informative post. Thank you.

With a butane ligher, I was able to get some small patches of color, but it was apparently not very deep as it wore off fairly quickly. I didn't expect much from the lighter as it really isn't a very powerful heat source. But, it was an interesting experiment.

I am told that you can start to get some red by using oxygen/acetelyne (sp?) torch. After the piece is very hot, turn off the gas and just let the pure oxygen hit the piece and it will oxidize it very fast and very deeply.

This probably has to be done with the handle removed as the piece has to be very hot, probably hotter than you can safely get it with the blade still attached.

BTW, pure oxygen is very dangerous stuff (it seems very safe since we breath oxygen all the time, but pure oxygen oxygen really promotes combustion. It can litterally just cause otherwise stable objects to burst into flames.) So, don't play with this if you don't know how to handle the equipment safely and, as always, be careful.

The other way to thermally oxidize the handles would be in an oven. Your kitchen oven should do the trick (though, again, the handles must be removed from the blade to avoid ruining the blade). An even better option would be the sort of oven that bladesmiths use to heat-treat blades.

The real enabler that we're missing is someone who can disassemble the knife and reassemble it for a modest fee.

Benchmade has told me that they have decided not to offer this service. They don't want to offer disassembly service for the rest of their products and they don't really feel that they can offer it for just the 42 without disappointing all of their other customers. That's understandable.



------------------
Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
WHAT!!! No way...back when I was looking into getting a BRIGHT yellow anodization Benchmade told me that they would dissasemble the knife and then reassemble it when I was done as to not void the warranty...


Anyone know how to get the chicago screwes out??
 
It's gonna be really hard to get a solid color with a torch since getting an even color requires evenly heating the piece and that's hard to do with a torch. Also, you can't get to close to the tang with your heating, so getting the whole handle colored will require disassembly.

Now, please don't be disturbed that BM had elected not to offer this service. That decision is very understandable. I'm still looking around to find someone who can do this as a service and even looking into buying the punch myself, but the best deal I've been able to find is over $500. Something will come up. Disassembly and reassembly is the key to really opening up a world of custom mods to the basic 42 platform. Once we get this basic step covered, you're gonna see a world of modified 42s.

------------------
Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com

[This message has been edited by Gollnick (edited 10-05-2000).]
 
Very nice - official post there ChuckG-- (BTW thanks for the heads up)
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As Chuck (not G)
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Would say... I am the Edison of Thermal Oxidation (of 42)!!!

You don't know how much I appreciate that and take it as a compliment!

Cam-(your black and dark blood red are unattainable -- sorry) You can try to get a solid color -- Get a wide flame on the torch and work your way over it -- keep it moving--and brush over it. Keep your eyes on what you are doing and if one part gets done then move to another part. It wont be all the same but it will be similar. (I did this when I first started to color mine-I went over the entire knife and got a nice gold color--gold would probably be the easiest because it is the first color that is created)

How bright of a yellow do you want?

Every one can see what I did here:
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http://www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum47/HTML/000721.html

And if anyone has questions feel free to ask me. Thanks-
mmtmatrix
 
Uh-oh. I know just enough to make me dangerous now. Thanks ChuckG and all.

[This message has been edited by Steve Harvey (edited 10-09-2000).]
 
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