thermally oxidizing/anodizing

Waktasz

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just wondering about techniques of thermally ozidizing the titanium handles of my knife.

Can anyone help me with this?

Thanks

Matt
 
"At temperatures as low as 620º F the surface of titanium becomes tarnished, forming an oxide film that ranges in color from blue to gold.3
Starting with this simple statement as a guide, the following procedures will generate a variety of colored effects on prepared titanium.
Throughout these procedures cleanliness is an absolute necessity. Dirt, dust, oil and finger prints will discolor the finish. Refinishing a thermally oxidized piece requires extensive grinding, sanding and repolishing. Heating in air precipitates a hard, dark fire scale just below the color that is frustrating and time-consuming to remove.
At the same time, surface contamination can be used to produce special effects. Metal filings, organic fibers and chemicals can be applied to the surface prior to heating.
Kiln Coloring:
A standard copper enameling kiln may be used to color titanium. The new ceramic fiber-insulated kilns would be best because of their smooth, clean interior. Standard enameling kiln furniture should also be used. Firing at a temperature of 1200º F will yield approxi-mately the following results:
3 minutes - medium to dark gold
5 minutes - purple to dark blue
7 minutes - dark to medium blue
Lowering the temperature will extend the time necessary to reach a specific color. As this time factor is extended the chance for contamination on the surface is greatly increased. If the temperature is elevated, the oxidation will occur rapidly and all sense of control is lost.
The first order of colors (gold, purple, blue) can easily be achieved during kiln firing. An even, smooth color can be generated with the workpiece centered in a preheated kiln. Some variations can be produced by positioning the workpiece off-center and near a hot surface. Variations can also be achieved by coating areas of the workpiece with clay (Scalex) or chemicals to reduce the oxidation.
Flame coloring:
Here a torch becomes the artist’s brush. A free painterly approach to the work is necessary as precise effects and color control are not possible. But free, softly shaded washes of color can be generated with a little practice. Almost any jeweler’s torch will do, as the tem-peratures are not high. First-, second- and even third- order colors can be generated dependent on the surface finish of the titanium. Large soft flames can produce areas of even color while a small hot point will produce rainbows of color radiating out from the source.
Cleanliness of the work space and the titanium is abso-lutely necessary. The time and difficulty required to grind off an error and repolish the surface make the effort a good investment.
Note: Titanium filings and dust will burn like magnes-ium. The fumes are toxic and should not be inhaled.. When using a power grinder care should also be taken, as the fumes from flying sparks are also toxic."


Not my words, this was taken from a technical paper on the coloring of Ti.
 
If you do a search you will probably find a ton of information on the subjects of Thermal and electrolytic oxidation (anodizing).

Here is one that I recently replied to, there is also a number of threads on the balisong forum (there is info there from when I did my 42) and the shop talk forum:


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=168895


Let me know if you have any questions or if I can help you out on something, the new titanium handled BM Balisongs look kinda cool anodized, as well as the bolsters on the LCC. :)
mmtmatrix
 
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