Thickness behind the edge

[Destroyer 666]

I've heard a bit about this in terms of how it relates to cutting performance. But what about in terms of scandi grinds? You have a substantially sharper edge angle, but the thickness behind the edge is literally the entire thickness of the blade stock. What does this equate to?

 

[miso2]

I'm interested in this topic, too.
Especially, the impact of the primary bevel angle on sliceyness.
Mora seems to put 22 degree scandi bevel and tiny microbevel at 30 degree (all inclusive angles) on their outdoor models.
So, they can be viewed as a blade with a very thin edge and steep primary bevel.
Most of my knives (mostly folders) have primary bevels at <10 degree.
Which one would slice better, one with 7 degree primary bevel with a 0.01" BTE edge or one with 22 degree primary bevel with a 0.0005" BTE edge?

 

[EatingSarma]

Scandi grind is s big "No no" for me.

1. I hope you won't chop or stab with scandi grind knife, as you could experience some damage to the edge or tip (unless you have some kind of really tough steel like 3V)
2. If you do have 3V knife with scandi grind or something else that's highly wear resistant, sharpening it will be a day job
3. Scandi grind knives with thicker stock often aren't as good slicer as for example full flat grind or saber grind knife. It will wedge the apple instead of slicing it for example.

 

[insta9ves]

TBE is the new youtuber fad. Also, it seems the people who cares more about TBE tends to use their knife less. Either that or they just test cutting cardbox all day. Probably the same person that tells you using knife for anything other than slicing tomatoes is considered an abuse.
People have been using scandi grind for a very long time and they seemed fine with it. I suspect people who spent their life doing a lot of cutting couldn’t care less about BTE thickness.

 

[soc_monki]

TBE is the new youtuber fad. Also, it seems the people who cares more about TBE tends to use their knife less. Either that or they just test cutting cardbox all day. Probably the same person that tells you using knife for anything other than slicing tomatoes is considered an abuse.
People have been using scandi grind for a very long time and they seemed fine with it. I suspect people who spent their life doing a lot of cutting couldn’t care less about BTE thickness.

I don't. All my knives cut, some slice tomatoes better than others, some slice apples better than others, some slice cardboard better than others. They can all do the jobs. If I need something that is super thin behind the edge I have a razor knife. For me, I want my knives to be able to do what I need them to do, like when I trimmed branches with my Ritter RSK the other day. Today I cut a tomato and jalapeños with the same knife. It did both jobs admirably, but it's considered a bit thick behind the edge.

Just use the knife... As long as it's not a Medford it will perform just fine.

 

[Dr Heelhook]

A Scandi grind knife is mainly meant for cutting wood, more particularly cutting shavings of wood similar to how a chisel or a plane cuts, which is why it has only a zero ground, single bevel, just like a chisel or a plane.

Also the kind of wood that we cut in Scandinavian forests are mainly not very hard woods like birch and pine, which is why we can have a sharper angle on the edge with less risk of edge damage.

 

[Karl H]

If you have a scandi grind and you feel it is too thick behind the edge, you can always grind down the shoulder (convexing) or grind the faces down to thin the blade.

Unfortunately, there is no mathematical model that I am aware of that will accurately calculate required cutting force, as a function of both edge angle and thickness behind the edge.

 

[me2]

I wouldn't want a Scandi ground blade with a spine thicker than 3/32" or so. The loss in cutting ability isn't worth the gain in strength. Maybe a Leuku would benefit.