Thin-layered damascus

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Sep 13, 1999
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In his book "The Pattern Welded Blade",p.17, Jim HRISOULAS writes that very thin (0.003 to 0.005 inch) high carbon shim stock can be welded to either low-carbon or pure nickel shim to form a damascus billet. He says he started with as much as 250-350 layers.
Among others, the advantages of this method are a reduced need for folding and welding, and a more even pattern in the finished blade.
I thought I could try this method when I found some used and/or broken large metal saw blades about 0.004 inch in thickness that could make a nice billet whith either low-carbon steel or nickel.
Then my questions:
1) Has anyone an experience with thin layered damascus?
2) What kind of steel are these metal saw blades made of?
3) Jim HRISOULAS says that high-carbon shim stocks can be welde with low-carbon shim stocks OR pure nickel. Does he mean that you can alternate high-carbon and nickel in a, say, 50 layers billet? Isn'it too much nickel?
Thank for answering...
Claude
 
You found a saw blade only .004 thick? ( aprox the thickness of a human hair) I want to know more!!!

I have used lumber mill saw blades about.04 thick cut into strips and mixed with 1095 or 1085 with good luck. I start with 16 to 20 layers!

It is my understanding the saw mill saw blades are made of L-6 or 15n20 most likly 15n20. I think the ones I use are 15n20 and treat them as such!

I think every other layer of nickel is to much. It would be to flashy for me. I prefure nickel to be used in small doses! I also think it might degrade cutting ability!

Try you saw blade with 1085 and see if you don,t like the contrast, it waters up nicely!

Let us know how you are doing!!

Doug
 
Darrel:

You state that nickel "should" be used every other layer. Is there a techical reason? Or should you use it to taste?

Thanks!
Doug
 
I remember reading in one of Jim Hrisoulas' books that nickel will not weld to itself. So when using nickel, every other layer must be a carbon steel.

I also remember reading that nickel will make for very bright watering of the pattern, but will not impart any favorable metal properties into the finished blade (i.e. hardness, toughness, edge holding ability.)

Hope this helps!

 
I've been away for a few days and I didn't read the answers to my subject until now.
Thanks to all those who sent an answer. Every information is useful building up my experience.
Take care.
Claude
 
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