Things to consider when shopping for a Damascus fixed blade?

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I've never really used a Damascus fixed blade knife but, I keep admiring them and find this an itch I must scratch ;)

How is durability of a Damascus knife affected compared to plain old carbon steel knife made in a similar way? Are they sharper, more durable to edge chipping, cut longer, rust easier, etc.? Or, is it just about cosmetics with performance really being so close to the same, the average guy couldn't tell.

Is there a significant difference when different steels are used? I'm thinking of something common along the lines of L6 and 1084 versus L6 and 5160 or anything along a similar line of thought.

What particular things should I look for when inspecting a knife for purchase? What sorts of questions should I ask the maker to ensure I am getting a properly made piece?

Thanks in advance!

must resist the urges that come as Blade West draws near......:D see ya' Monday
 
For the most part damascus is just a combination of different high carbon tool steels. It does have great cutting ability but has to be maintained like high carbon steels or it will rust. A lot of is is just cosmetics. It looks prettier, but the chemical makeup is the same as a tool steel. Some makers who make their own damascus will be able to tell you what's in it and the pros and cons of each material. Other makers who buy damascus might might not be able to tell you what's in it. They rely on the maker of the damascus to use a good mixture. I can say that twist or stacked layer damascus makes for better blades than mosaic damascus, they are stronger. It also comes down to user intent. What are you going to use it for?
 
Thanks for the reply.

Most of my use will be light camping and yard work. Stuff like whacking small limbs off branches to roast marsh mellows, light brush clearing, heavier food prep work (potatoe cutter, meat slicer, etc.).

I have been using a plain old 1095 knife (Newt Livesay air assualt) and a 52100 forged blade with real good results. I really appreciate the superior performance of these blade to the production stainless steel crap I have used in years past. I really like the way carbon steel blades perform (ease of sharpening, strength to accidental impacts, keeness of the edge, etc.).

As I look for something a little bigger and dressier, I have been looking at damascus fixed blades. I am having a hard time discerning performace differences in the steel itself (assuming proper grinds, edge geometery, etc.).

1084 and 5160 seem to be common starting points. These tend to be combined with other materials to make the damascus which I have not used.
 
Hi,

I would only buy a damascus blade, if i know the steels. Along with higher carbon content u can get a harder blade that is better for light cutting work. I am not sure but i think that the carbon content evens out while forging. As i like sharp blades and i would not abuse them i would go for a damascus blade with two steels with carbon content between 1% and 1,5% and 60 or more HRC.
 
Originally posted by Messerpeter
I am not sure but i think that the carbon content evens out while forging.
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I think that mastersmith Howard Clark demonstrated this, indeed.

As i like sharp blades and i would not abuse them i would go for a damascus blade with two steels with carbon content between 1% and 1,5% and 60 or more HRC.
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This is too much C, esp. for a large blade. 1095 get close to 1% C, and it's already a very dicey steel - same thing with 52100. Both can make excellent knives, but they're not for beginners. I don't know any C steel routinely used in bladesmithing with a C content of 1.5% - I think that's borderline cast iron...

I think that overall a damascus blade can only be as good as the steels in it - i.e., you don't get any added advantage. On the other hand, because you add a lot to the complexity of the process, you add more opportunities for deffects to occur. So you want to go with someone experimented...

One of the top choices semm to be 1084 X L6 - L6 will add some toughness to the 1084. Other mixes you will often see are 1084 X 15N20. 15N20 is often refered to as just another type of L6, but it's a simpler alloy, and I'm not sure it'd give you the toughness of the L6.

I don't know if 5160 is very often used in damascus. It has a lower C content than 1084, and so will not have as much contrast with L6. An L6 X 5160 blade would probably be very tough but not as hard as a1084 X L6 one.

JD
 
Ur right Joss; and 1,5% Carbon might be to much.
An example i read about was 1.2008(OCR3) and 1.2516 (OW1); (140Cr3 & 120WV4).

1.2008: C1.43 Si0.23 Mn0.33 Cr0.55
1.2516: C1.20 Si0.23 Mn0.28 Cr0.20 V0.10 W1.00

This will become a sensitive blade with limited applications but very sharp. I would choose two steels according to my application.

The example above would be fine for a sashimi kife not for campknives or hunters. A damascus with around 0,5% carbon will be for heavy application, just the same as with normal steels.

When u know the content of the damascus u can adjust ur tasks, so u can have whatever u want with a damascus blade, too.
 
I really like the performance of equal number of layers of 1084 and 15n20 steels. Both steels are high carbon. I passed my ABS Master Smith performance test with a 300+ layer, random pattern 10" bowie. This knife was every bit as stong and usefull as any single carbon blade I have ever made.
 
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