Think I screwed up

E

et10

Joined
May 18, 2010
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I have a couple axes on new House handles that I ordered without lacquer. I put a couple coats of stain on both after I got the flea market heads hung. Then, in what now seems like a serious mistake, I put a coat of boiled linseed oil on both, just to see what would happen. It seems that the stain won't let the BLO soak in, and after almost a week both are still tacky. Will this dry eventually, or should I try to get it off somehow? Not like I need to use them any time soon, I have others, and I don't heat with wood any more. (Hopefully that changes in the future) If I should try to get it off, what would be the best thing to use to accomplish that? Any help you guys can give me I'd really appreciate.
 
I'm going to guess that you used a "2 in one" stain/sealer, not a regular stain.
soak a rag or scotch brite pad with mineral oil (aka paint thinner) and clean off the sticky mess.
 
I've used boiled linseed oil on a stained front door. I know the stain was stain only, color with a solvent carrier. It took 6 months to completely dry, even facing west, in the summer, with a storm door over it trapping even more heat.

And once it was hardened, it never needed any more attention.

To me, that's what boiled linseed does. Sticky for a long time, but eventually dries to a very tough finish. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Linseed_oil
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. Yeah, it was either minwax or varathane stain and sealer that I used first. I usually use whatever I have laying aroung the place. This time I got a can of BLO and tried that as well. It's been 4 o 5 days now since I put the BLO on top of the cured stain/sealer, and the handles aren't wet, but they are sticky. Looks like I get to do some scrubbing. Live and learn, I guess. If I thought it would dry eventually I'd be tempted to leave it, but it's not looking good.
 
blo over poly is not a good mix.
poly over blo is a good mix except for tool handles.
mineral oil will wipe off the blo, 120 grit sandpaper for the 2 in 1 finish -- or acetone to chemically etch it so it doesn't cause blisters.
 
I'm going to warn you against the mineral oil that 1066vik mentioned. I think he might have meant mineral spirits. I can tell you that lacquer thinner or acetone will take it off and will not leave any residual effects when you go to go to finish it properly. I build custom bass guitars and have a extremely good understanding of finishes for wood. If you're going to use polyurethane make sure you use it all the way through the steps i.e. staining, finishing etc. If you want a rock hard finish that is totally resistant to chemicals, even acetone, stain your handles with acrylic based stains or aniline dye (alcohol based) and then seal the handle with conversion varnish. It will last a lifetime. Oil finishes are easy but not even close to the durability of CV.
 
zeroed4x said:
I'm going to warn you against the mineral oil that 1066vik mentioned. I think he might have meant mineral spirits. I can tell you that lacquer thinner or acetone will take it off and will not leave any residual effects when you go to go to finish it properly. I build custom bass guitars and have a extremely good understanding of finishes for wood. If you're going to use polyurethane make sure you use it all the way through the steps i.e. staining, finishing etc. If you want a rock hard finish that is totally resistant to chemicals, even acetone, stain your handles with acrylic based stains or aniline dye (alcohol based) and then seal the handle with conversion varnish. It will last a lifetime. Oil finishes are easy but not even close to the durability of CV.
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thanks for the correction - you're right.
Mineral SPIRITS thins and strips BLO. Mineral OIL is honing/butcher block oil.
 
Thanks guys. I have a can of mineral spirits down in the shop. Guess I'll be cleaning. I saw 1066vik's post about the mineral oil, and my brain translated that into mineral spirits. Then, this morning when I typed this post I almost referred to what I have as mineral oil myself. Caught the error after I typed it. Again, thanks. I really appreciate your help.
 
Maybe a bit off topic, but check the age on your BLO. New BLO soak in nice and dries fairly quickly (overnight). Old BLO doesn't soak in very well and leaves a very tacky finish. I'm guessing because the prolonged contact with the air partially oxidizes the oil.
 
nickzdon said:
Maybe a bit off topic, but check the age on your BLO. New BLO soak in nice and dries fairly quickly (overnight). Old BLO doesn't soak in very well and leaves a very tacky finish. I'm guessing because the prolonged contact with the air partially oxidizes the oil.
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Yes you are correct on that one, 1/2 finished cans that have sat for a while will do that.
The other issue is if enamel or oil based products are used before the application of the BLO it can most likely have the same effect. It blocks penetration of the BLO and can keep it from curing.
 
zeroed4x said:
Yes you are correct on that one, 1/2 finished cans that have sat for a while will do that.
The other issue is if enamel or oil based products are used before the application of the BLO it can most likely have the same effect. It blocks penetration of the BLO and can keep it from curing.
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Have you tried mixing japan drier with blo?
 
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