Think I've got kydex figured out! Some final questions!

D

drjones

Joined
Sep 6, 2000
Messages
913
OK.

I've given up on trying to find someone to make me a kydex sheath. I think I have it pretty well figured out how to make my own, but have some questions.

1. I plan on getting kydex from www.knifekits.com They have it for $4.10/sq. foot. Is that a good price? Seems pretty cheap to me, but are there places that have it for even less?

2. They have two thicknesses: .6 and .8. I'd like to use the .6, to keep the bulk down as much as possible. Is there any problem with that? I plan on making sheaths for some knives (folders probably, maybe a fixed blade) and depending how well I do, some flashlights and firearms. I had a holster from www.fist-inc.com that used ultra-thin kydex. I mean, this stuff was about as thin as 10 sheets of paper! That is THIN!!! It worked well, so .6 should be ok, right?

3. I'd like to make the belt loop attachment similar to this: http://www.fist-inc.com/holsters/k1/K4.htm (That is the model of holster I had from them, BTW.) Though you can't tell from that pic, the part that sits on your pants was very tight, so it was more of a "clip," and then you had the J-hook which obviously caught on to your belt. Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to do something similar?

4. Knifekits.com also has a special foam pad for making kydex. I plan on buying two of those and creating a "sandwich." What works better; using clamps or standing on it? How long do you have to press it for?

5. What is best to use; rivets or Chicago screws? Are there any special tools required for either? The screws look simpler, so I'm most interested in those.

6. How do you polish off the edges? I've got a dremel...

EDIT: 7. What temp is best for kydex, specifically the .6 thickness I'm interested in? Can I use just a heat gun, or do I have to use an oven? How long do you heat it for?


Thanks and any other tips would be much appreciated!!!

Drjones
 
drjones,

While I usually detest plastics where knives are concerned, I do have a couple nifty sheaths made with kydex (or something) that are very practical and user friendy.

Running Dog Knives (now kaput?) made some very good sheaths for their knives, I hope that Michael Murphy is still around (and Del and the dog too!).

These guys made a sheath that was omni-directional...you could configure it from IWB SOB to SS OH. Email me if you don't know the terminology. Both of the knives I have from then have .8 kydex, I do not think it is needed for the actual sheath, the 'clip' is another matter.

Both sheaths look like they were pre-molded; molded to an original 'universal' form and then adjusted to the final shape...probably heatesd again. I have a couple other sheaths that are .6"....pretty flimsey.

As far as rivets go, unless you plan on making your sheaths adjustable, you don't need the Chicago, the two RD sheaths that came with the knives are as good today as they were when they were made, form fit, friction hold, and as long as you keep them clean...no mar.

I do NOT know how they were made, but mine have held up at over 140 degrees F, and still work at -15 degrees. One has loosened up about .125", but it would never fail. (Michael?)

Great way to go for a straight knife, even one that isn't stainless.

Hope this helps,



Steve-O
 
Go to the shop talk forum and do a search on kydex. There are some good tutorials. $4.10 per foot is an average price. Get enough to make a couple of sheaths just for practice.

I recently started working kydex. I made a press with foam glued to plywood and stood on it. NowI use bar clamps from the hardware store.

A heat gun works fine. Heat it til soft. Reheat again if you don't like the way it came out.

Use rivets or Chicago screws, your preference. You can also use PVC glue on it.

Good luck with your project/ new hobby.
 
Check out multi-adjust Tek-Lok's from Blade Tech. I think they are 8 bucks! I think going from .6mm to .8 adds up to a total of 1/8" in a sheath. I'd get rivets and screws for different apps, and I'd guess that clamps are to standing on it what knives are to knawing through it.
 
1. I plan on getting kydex from www.knifekits.com They have it for $4.10/sq. foot. Is that a good price? Seems pretty cheap to me, but are there places that have it for even less?

A good price for small quantities. You'll probably have to buy big sheets to get it cheaper. Alex and those folks are good people.

2. They have two thicknesses: .6 and .8. I'd like to use the .6, to keep the bulk down as much as possible. Is there any problem with that? I plan on making sheaths for some knives (folders probably, maybe a fixed blade) and depending how well I do, some flashlights and firearms. I had a holster from www.fist-inc.com that used ultra-thin kydex. I mean, this stuff was about as thin as 10 sheets of paper! That is THIN!!! It worked well, so .6 should be ok, right?

I like .06 for small stuff and .08 for big stuff. I haven't had good luck with the thicker sheets.

3. I'd like to make the belt loop attachment similar to this: http://www.fist-inc.com/holsters/k1/K4.htm (That is the model of holster I had from them, BTW.) Though you can't tell from that pic, the part that sits on your pants was very tight, so it was more of a "clip," and then you had the J-hook which obviously caught on to your belt. Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to do something similar?

I like g-clips made form strips of Kydex for most apps and for IWB the rubber BladeTech straps.

4. Knifekits.com also has a special foam pad for making kydex. I plan on buying two of those and creating a "sandwich." What works better; using clamps or standing on it? How long do you have to press it for?

I use the blue sleeping pad foam (2 thicknesses per side) glued to some scrap lumber. I use clamps so I can do other stuff while the sheath is cooling.

5. What is best to use; rivets or Chicago screws? Are there any special tools required for either? The screws look simpler, so I'm most interested in those.

I like rivets. You can buy a cup/anvil setup for setting rivets or a press if you are gonna do a bunch.

6. How do you polish off the edges? I've got a dremel...

A Dremel will work, sandpaper, belt sander, scothbritepad, you can almost work it like any softwood. Just don't get it too hot.

7. What temp is best for kydex, specifically the .6 thickness I'm interested in? Can I use just a heat gun, or do I have to use an oven? How long do you heat it for?

I lay it on a baking sheet, run the heatgun over it for a short bit till the edges start to curve, then snatch it up with cotton gloves. Too much heat will distort the sheet and pattern. I toast mine in the garage as it can get a bit of smell to it.

Good luck with your projects.

Stay Safe,
Clyde
 
Thanks all for the informative replies, particularly rawhide.

I'm pretty sure I'm going to give this a try, as I desperately need a sheath because my Strider Tac GB is ripping my suit pockets to shreds! :(

Depending on how well it goes, I'll probably make some kydex for other toys, and maybe even offer to make some for forumites on a limited basis!

We'll see....

Also: Since most people recommend the rivets, a couple questions:

1) Do they require any special tools to fasten, or can I just hammer them in?

2) Would they work for a firearm holster, or would the screws be a better idea? I think screws might be ideal in order to provide some level of tension adjustment...

One last thing: knifekits.com has the "carbon-fiber" patterned kydex. Does this act exactly the same as standard black kydex, or is it a bit different?

Thanks!
Drjones
 
has anyone tried embedding cheesecloth or some other material on the interior sides of the kydex, to protect the blade from scratching? Once I saw a kydex sheath that had some sort of fake-velvet interior, which was very cool but I'm not sure how it was attached to the kydex - obviously not glue since the heat would melt it. Any ideas?

Oh, also, I like rivets better than chicago screws for holding the sheath together, or you can even use thick nylon thread to "sew" from hole to hole. Chicago screws are better for attaching to sheath to belt-loops, etc.
 
Originally posted by fishface5
has anyone tried embedding cheesecloth or some other material on the interior sides of the kydex, to protect the blade from scratching? Once I saw a kydex sheath that had some sort of fake-velvet interior, which was very cool but I'm not sure how it was attached to the kydex - obviously not glue since the heat would melt it. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

I apologise I cannot provide a link, as I've read so many threads on "how to make kydex" lately that my head is spinning, however, it can be done.

I recall reading threads and other webpages that noted success in creating kydex covered with leather and other materials.

IIRC, Safariland makes a suede-covered kydex holster.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top