Thinking of buying a sword

C

CaptInsano

Joined
Apr 11, 2007
Messages
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I'd like to stay around $150. I don't want a wallhanger. It doesn't have to be the greatest sword, I just don't want it to self-destruct if I hack on a 2x4 or something. Here's what I'm looking at.

http://www.strongblade.com/prod/sba-vikingraider.html

http://www.swordsdirect.com/swords-norseman-sword.html

http://www.swordsdirect.com/viking-swords-battle-ready.html

http://kriscutlery.com/documents/sale.html

I've heard some bad things about the Paul Chen line of viking swords. Feel free to add suggestions
 
CaptInsano said:
I'd like to stay around $150. I don't want a wallhanger. It doesn't have to be the greatest sword, I just don't want it to self-destruct if I hack on a 2x4 or something. Here's what I'm looking at.

http://www.strongblade.com/prod/sba-vikingraider.html

http://www.swordsdirect.com/swords-norseman-sword.html

http://www.swordsdirect.com/viking-swords-battle-ready.html

http://kriscutlery.com/documents/sale.html

I've heard some bad things about the Paul Chen line of viking swords. Feel free to add suggestions
Click to expand...

I think...

1) If that is your ceiling go with Kris Cutlery
2) I think your sword from Kris Cutlery has already been sold
3) I think I would save more money rather then buying any of those others... :)
 
Real swords are designed to cut flesh, and quickly wear out or worse when used to chop wood and such. Often in a dangerous manner.

That's why lumberjacks use axes. :D
Get one of those.
 
I have lots of axes. :)

I don't mind if it wears out, I just don't want catastrophic QVC type failure.
 
I asked a similar question awhile back and a couple folks sent me to

kultofathena.com to checkout blades by windlass...

I think the little spartan and gladiator they have looked pretty cool. If you see one you like, cut and paste and maybe someone here can give you some advice
 
CaptInsano said:
I have lots of axes. :)

I don't mind if it wears out, I just don't want catastrophic QVC type failure.
Click to expand...

Even a great sword can break if you decide to cut improper targets.

Go with Cold Steel. They are thick and overbuilt, specifically geared toward nonpractitioners who are more likely to use the sword on something a real sword should NOT be used on.

They are a bit more expensive than your budget, though. Windlass is pretty much the only company within your budget that I would trust. Their products are decent for the price. They are mostly geared toward rennfair-goers who want a functional piece for their costumes, and beginner practitioners who can't afford better training implements. The balance is generally not great, but good enough. The durability is good enough if you stick to proper targets (water bottles, tatami mats, pool noodles, fresh carcasses, etc).
 
HolyRoller said:
Even a great sword can break if you decide to cut improper targets.

Go with Cold Steel. They are thick and overbuilt, specifically geared toward nonpractitioners who are more likely to use the sword on something a real sword should NOT be used on.

They are a bit more expensive than your budget, though. Windlass is pretty much the only company within your budget that I would trust. Their products are decent for the price. They are mostly geared toward rennfair-goers who want a functional piece for their costumes, and beginner practitioners who can't afford better training implements. The balance is generally not great, but good enough. The durability is good enough if you stick to proper targets (water bottles, tatami mats, pool noodles, fresh carcasses, etc).
Click to expand...

I would agree. CS is probably what I would go with if I wanted to spend twice my budget. I think their stuff is geared toward screwing around in the yard rather than meticulous historical detail or masterful craftsmanship. I just don't want to spend that much on it right now. I will look at some more windlass blades.
 
CaptInsano said:
This one looks great, but with shipping it could be a little pricier than what I'm looking to get into.

http://www.kultofathena.com/product~item~500670~name~Sticklestad+Viking+Sword.htm
Click to expand...
That one will not take any form of cruel and unusual punishment. It can probably handle soft targets though. After sharpening. :)

If you're willing to pay a little more you might want to consider a Cheness katana with a 9260 steel blade.
I easily took down a 2"+ thick sapling with one of those.
Without damaging the sword.

However, that's really axe territory. Doing things like that too often will destroy the sword. Any sword.
 
cheness.jpg


:D
 
2" saplings are a lot easier on a sword. They are green wood, as oppose to a 2x4, which is seasoned and harder.

That said, yeah, you don't want to overdue it. Especially with a cheap sword.

Either save up more money and buy something decent, or live with the fact that you want to purposely mishandle a sword and it's going to eventually fail on you (well, faster than a better-made sword, anyway).
 
HolyRoller said:
2" saplings are a lot easier on a sword.
Click to expand...
My Albion didn't like them and took a bit of a set. Bent the tip. (Common problem with XVa type blades in general btw, not just the Albions)

Gotta admit I did two saplings in a single stroke though. Cut better than the Cheness but that's no surprise as it was sharper and it's heavier too.

Wasn't really serious: I managed to more or less straighten it out.

Albion offered to swap the blade but I refused as I felt I exceeded the performance envelope.

"Axe territory" hehehe. :p
 
I really like the Cheness' steel. It's almost as tough as the old katanas of lore, which btw real historical katanas were not.
Those were prone to breaking, chipping and failing lamination.

If I had my way Albion would use 9260 for their Next Gen lineup.
That's not gonna happen. It's probably too hard on their CNC machine.
And they supposedly want to use a "historically plausible" type of steel, and 9260 is a silicon steel alloy and definitely not historical.

9260 takes a nice edge too.
With a bit (more than a bit actually) of practice I managed to make it so sharp that it actually cuts my arm when I attempt to shave the hairs off.
Ieuw.

Anyway back on topic: Windlass and similar swords should never be used as "beater" swords. They'll fail quickly and probably on the first attempt.
It's not about the money: a sword that dies may very well take its owner or an innocent bystander with it. Oops.
Be extremely careful.
It's best to get an experienced instructor. No shit.

Read the horror stories on swordforum.com.

Oops Satan I mean wine turned my post into a rant. I apologize. Sorry. :D
 
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