Thinking of gettind some Dia Sharp stomes...

Kentucky

Kentucky

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Dec 13, 2008
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I started making knives several,several years ago:D Ive gotten in the habit of just running out to the shop and getting a shaving sharp edge on my personal knives with belt grinders and leather belt strop..
I honestly miss setting in front of the TV and sharpening on stones..Ive been reading a lot of good about the DMT Dia Sharp stones and was thinking of getting the Course,Fine and extra-Fine..Then stropping..Ive also read second hand that you can use them like waterstones? is this correct? Any tips on selection and use with water? Thanks for your time..
 
Kentucky, I got the 8x2 with the plastic base for Christmas. I really like it. I just keep a little squirt bottle of water next to it and wet it down and sharpen away. Then wipe it of with a rag or paper towel when done. It works great, it is the course 325 grit and fine 600 grit. gets them really sharp quick for hand sharpening. Especially if you are sharpening one of the new super steels. Even faster on 5160 or 52100.

I also use the belt grinder followed by a light buff with some green chrome compound, but there is something threaputic about sharpening on a stone.
 
Thanks, is there any difference in getting a combo stone and a regular stone? Aside from thickness?
 
Those three are good for basic maintenance and to finish a edge started on the belts. Not really coarse enough to do heavy repair or bevel setting though, FYI.

Diamond hones will show best results on stainless or PM steels with average to below average results on carbon steels usually in the 10xx family. It also helps if the steel is at least a 58 Rockwell or burring at the edge becomes a issue. In turn, a steel at 60+ or close to max hardness with a good temper will sharpen to a very crisp and clean edge often lacking burr formation and needing little to no stropping.

Using water with the hones will keep the swarf from clogging the hones and slowing them down. A drop of dish soap is recommended to break the surface tension of the water and also helps to smooth out the feel/feedback from the hone. If sharpening just one blade the use of water is not needed, the diamond hones sharpen fast enough that clogging would only become a issue when sharpening multiple blades.
 
Honestly Im debating on the DMT's and a decent set of Water Stones..Most of the stuff I carry is higher end carbon steel like W2,52100 or 1086M..Maybe some L6..Some of the pocket knives are VG-10,AUS8, maybe S30V but Ive gotten rid of all my S30V stuff..
Thinking of Naniwa superstones in maybe a 400,1000 and 5000..Or possibly a Norton 220/1000 and a 4000/8000...Im plenty satisfied with the edge I can get with good micron belts and loaded leather belts but Im just wanting to freehand for myself..
Not an expert on waterstones but would like to give them a try..Im a good freehand sharpener, just havent used waterstones..Or the DMT's..I can do any repair or setting of bevels on one of the grinders..Thats not an issue..I like to maintain and edge and not let it get to the repair stage if i can help it..
 
Nothing wrong with the Norton or naniwa but there are many options. My personal recommendations would be to the 1k and 6k Arashiyama stones, excellent feel (much like a natural stone) and strong cutting ability to get the job done quickly.
 
There is no difference in combo or single other than thickness, but they will both work on the plastic base they sell. I suppose the price would be different. The larger DMT stones are not cheap.

Looks like you want water stones which is a good bit different method than the diamond stones.
 
To be honest Im still not sure..In the end may end up with both but I still may do with the DMT's right now..Most of the steel I use personally is higher Vanadium stuff.Not super steels but still a lot higher than the 10xx stuff..I also tend to leave my own knives 60RC. Ive never had problems with chipping on W2,1086M or 52100 for that matter..Even when testing the edge on seasoned hardwood..Though that is not my normal use..I tend to just cut with my knives..I leave the chopping and chopping to an axe:D
 
Added vanadium and high vanadium in steel plays two separate roles. Unless it contains 3-4% vanadium I wouldn't even factor wear resistance from vanadium carbides into it. A steel such as W2 with .25% vanadium uses it as a grain refiner and should not be considered as a factor of wear resistance.

I still think you would be best served by waterstones :)
 
Well what about say a course/fine DMT dia stone(I do occasionally use CPM steels) and then finish with waterstones? or am I really off? As far as flattening waterstones what about my granite surface plate and wet/dry paper?
 
Re-thinking things you should probably go with the DMT's. It sounds as if the steels you will be sharpening will be hard enough or wear resistant enough and compared to other stones you will get consistent results quickly. The C/F/EF is a solid set, finish on some horse hide or your fav compounded strop and you will have some very sharp edges.

As for the waterstones, wait until you want to make a set of them. Mixing and matching is ok but making sets as in a set of diamonds, a set of waterstones, and so on, used as needed for steels or grind types causes fewer headaches.
 
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