Thinking of having a "war cleaver" made

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Nov 1, 2005
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So I have been looking through the forums and wanting to have a unique blade built.... something like a "war cleaver"
I have a blade to start the process with,,, was wondering what maker you all thought would be a good candidate here in the states that might take on this job...

here is a pic of the cleaver/splitter I currently own and am thinking of using as the "raw material"... it's a 1949 Foster brothers model 16 cleaver/splitter, two hand model with a 16 inch blade and 34 inches overall...

fosterbrossplitter3_zps4139c3ae.jpg
 
i woudl rather buy you the steel to make a war cleaver and trade it to you for the old butchers tools (i hate seeing cool old tools destoryed )
 
i woudl rather buy you the steel to make a war cleaver and trade it to you for the old butchers tools (i hate seeing cool old tools destoryed )

I understand,,, I am currently in negotiations to get a second cleaver almost identical to the one in the pic...
 
Matt Lamey makes an awesome tactical cleaver and is reasonably priced for a full custom piece.
 
i woudl rather buy you the steel to make a war cleaver and trade it to you for the old butchers tools (i hate seeing cool old tools destoryed )

This!

If you pick a decent steel, like a 5160, or other common, but tough, tool steel it should not blow the budget. Steel is pretty cheap, as long as it is not super steel.


If you are trying to save materials cost, just sell that one, and use the money from the sale to fund the materials.


It would be a shame to see that big old hunk of history turned into a modern monstrosity. Not that I would not like to see your take on a modern war cleaver, but really, I would rather have that cleaver, and see it preserved.
 
So I have been looking through the forums and wanting to have a unique blade built.... something like a "war cleaver"
I have a blade to start the process with,,, was wondering what maker you all thought would be a good candidate here in the states that might take on this job...

here is a pic of the cleaver/splitter I currently own and am thinking of using as the "raw material"... it's a 1949 Foster brothers model 16 cleaver/splitter, two hand model with a 16 inch blade and 34 inches overall...

fosterbrossplitter3_zps4139c3ae.jpg

I've got one of those too, but in a lot rougher shape. I was thinking of maybe using a wire wheel to knock off the rust but people have been telling me to keep it as-is and hang it in the kitchen or something.

2012-11-18_09-42-20_873.jpg
 
You want to look into Wnease.

On a side note, can you swing that thing?

Lol,,, good question,,,, yep,, I am 6'1'' and 230 lbs,, 43 years old worked construction and machinery most my life so the Good Lord has blessed me with good health,, and yep I can swing that thing pretty wicked!!
 
I've got one of those too, but in a lot rougher shape. I was thinking of maybe using a wire wheel to knock off the rust but people have been telling me to keep it as-is and hang it in the kitchen or something.

2012-11-18_09-42-20_873.jpg
that one is in ruff shape and i think that maybe not much of collectors shape i woudl clean it up (but not too much ) and get a historical proper bit of wood to rehandle it
 
ya I have a pile of leaf springs in my garage,, as I am just starting to mess around in knife making, but I want this war cleaver to be done by a pro...
 
ya I have a pile of leaf springs in my garage,, as I am just starting to mess around in knife making, but I want this war cleaver to be done by a pro...

A pro would likely prefer to start with his own steel. But it's your project.
 
Like Roger said, I would think that most makers would want to use their own steel for a project like that. Most guys are pretty familiar with the steel in their shops and know exactly how to treat it to get the best performance out of it. That original cleaver is FAR too cool to bust up and use for a new piece...just my 2 cents
 
^^^ This. And I think having a vintage piece AND a ground-up contemporary rendition would make for a WAY cool set.
 
Steel choice is a bit of a tough call...I guess it really depends on how often you'll be using it. 5160 would have some extreme shock resistance, so for a heavily used blade, it would be my go-to. On the other hand, 1095 or W2 could produce an absolutely WICKED hamon on the blade, which would make me more inclined to keep it on permanent display instead of heading off into the bush and cutting a fire lane down with it. Keep in mind that these are just personal preferences. There's absolutely nothing that suggests 1095 won't make an exceptional hard-use chopper...I'm just never in a hurry to scuff up a kick ass hamon!
 
well in all honesty, will be more of a wall hanger but I want the capability there if I ever have to use it,,, thus thinking the 1095,,, thinking it would take a wicked hamon myself!!
 
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