Thinking of taking a Buck 112 apart just to see the lockup

Bungwrench

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Dec 21, 2006
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I've been wondering for a while now how well my 112 locks up. It seems that there is not a lot of metal locking the blade open. I guess the only way for me to know is to cut it open to look.

Has anyone else done this? Does anyone have any pictures of how much of the lock bar and blade overlap when locked up?

It just seems that if I barely depress the lockbar that the blade unlocks. This is why I'm wondering about the lockup.

Thing is the knife is only about 4 months old. Maybe tonight I'll get busy with the dremel to check out the lockup and take pictures.
 
there are pleanty of images of both 110 and 112 apart...
if you do it that to it the warenty is void ..
i would not take it apart...
maby goose can find the picts for you ...
if you realy dont want it you can send it to me before you cut it apart !:D
 
Well, I do want it but I also want to see how well it locks up. I realize that I will void the warranty. I'm not concerned with that.

If I do take it apart I would gladly give the disassembled knife to someone if they want it. I really want to just judge the lockup.
 
Here is a picture of the 112.
112110001.jpg
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112110002.jpg
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Seems like there is not a lot of lockup there, or the two meeting faces are pretty rounded.

I will probably grind my pins out later tonight and see what I find. Curiosity is just getting the best of me.
 
Well, I do want it but I also want to see how well it locks up. I realize that I will void the warranty. I'm not concerned with that.
If I do take it apart I would gladly give the disassembled knife to someone if they want it. I really want to just judge the lockup.

ahh i jest happen to run a home for forgoten an discarded bucks:)
... formanly a establishment for the 110 amonst us
it was expanded 2 years ago to inclueds
any thing with zhe BucK names on its side is most welcomes!
...
will send addy later! :p
 
LOL @ 334dave. :)

If I end up taking it apart, I will send it to you when I'm done. I'm still not sure if I will do it or not.

:)
 
I just bought a brand nw 112 at walmart,it survived some serious spine whacks today(I usually never do those stupid tests)and the lock never budged......good n nuff' 4 me!!!!!!
 
:cool: ...I wouldn't mess up that 112 Bungwrench...You'll see just what heng em posted that picture of. It's a tough lock just the way it's made. Tear apart a 112 or a 110 or a 500 or a 501 and they all look the same. They've been around a long time and they all work fine. Then again Decaf is always lookin' for wayward Bucks to care for...LMBO...:p
 
I've been wondering for a while now how well my 112 locks up. It seems that there is not a lot of metal locking the blade open. I guess the only way for me to know is to cut it open to look. ... Maybe tonight I'll get busy with the dremel to check out the lockup and take pictures.

:jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit: :jerkit:
 
Dr. Mudd,

Why so much masterbation? I'm not being a goof, I was just honestly wondering. Have you never had the desire to take apart a knife just because you felt like it? I can afford to buy a new 112 if I really want to take this one apart. ;)

I however will most likely take the advice of DarrylS.
 
Maybe tonight I'll get busy with the dremel to check out the lockup and take pictures.

Dremel, hacksaw, cold chisel, whatever...Mess it up real good!!! :D

Hell, DarrylS took his first one apart with a BMFH and a nail!!! :eek: :p

(Or was that me???) :confused:
 
:cool: ...Actually Trax is not too far from the truth on my first disassembly experience with a 112...LOL...It was a .093 diameter pin punch and a BMFH...:eek: ...That damn punch was so long that it flexed like a fishin' pole as I tried to beat the rivets outa that frame...I think the rivet holes eventually got big enough to drop a bowling ball through ( slight exaggeration :rolleyes: )by the time I was done...it sorta looked kine like heng em's picture but it was destined to never look like a 112 again...LMBO...:eek: :D :p
 
Compared to other lock-backs I've taken apart, there is less metal meeting at the lock-up on the 110 / 112. The lockbar face also is rounded, which eases closing but makes it less secure I would imagine. On paper it doesn't look like the best design, but in use I've had no problems at all with a Buck lockback.
 
I decided to not cut it apart. I just cannot. It's in my pocket right now and it's been doing fine. I don't want to ruin a good friend just because I'm curious.

Well, thanks for the ideas and suggestions. :)
 
I decided to not cut it apart. I just cannot. It's in my pocket right now and it's been doing fine. I don't want to ruin a good friend just because I'm curious.

Well, thanks for the ideas and suggestions. :)

I am glad you decided not to dissect the poor 112, Bungwrench, I just cringed at the thought. :(
 
I decided to not cut it apart.

It's not necessary to "cut" anything. Just press or drive the blade pivot pin out and the blade will fall out. The rockerbar will swivel so you can see and 'adjust' the blade notch/rockerbar tooth. I've had to 'adjust' both of these areas when swapping blades; sometimes the tooth needs narrowing, sometimes the notch needs crimping, etc.

A vise can be used in lieu of a press, with a 3/8" drive Allen socket as a pin, and another socket to hold the bolster against. Or, if you're steady, a drift and a hammer. According to Joe Houser, his people use a wedge to pop the bolsters apart...

Putting it back together is much easier. 1/8" brass rod (*not* brazing rod!) cut a bit longer than needed and squashed into place will do it. Then just file/sand/buff the ends and bolsters, and Bob's your uncle!!! :D :thumbup:
 
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