Thinking of upgrading my tools - could use some suggestions on what to buy...

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Mar 19, 2007
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I would like to upgrade the tools I use the most. As a list I would like to upgrade my

#1 and #2 Edge Beveler.
Overstitching Wheels 5, 7, and 9 TPI for instance.
A set of round punches perhaps up to 3/8th inch.
A V-Gouger and perhaps a French Beveler


Who do you think makes tools better than the Craftool tools I have and fit a person who uses these tools every day?

Thanks for your suggestions.

TF
 
I have had good luck and service from Weaver's master craftsman grade edge bevelers and punches. I believe you will find that the number 3 and number 7 punches will be the most used and the number 2 edge beveler for sheaths etc., and the number 1 for lighter goods. If you decide to get a creaser, the number five is probably all you will ever really use. I have a couple of V gougers that I rarely use any more. I don't make many note books and folders and that was my main use for the gouges. Overstitch wheels are all pretty much the same so whatever you have is probably good to go.

The better grade Osborne tools might be worth looking at also, but I prefer the Weaver Master grade for my use. The main thing is don't fall into the trap of thinking you need a full set of any of them. There are specific sizes in each of these tool "sets" that you will use constantly and other sizes you will rarely touch. Use the money saved to pick up other tools such as oblong (or "bag punches") punches, and other specialty tools once again in specific sizes. 1/2", 3/4" 1" and 1 1/2" oblongs will see quite a bit of use.

Paul
 
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If you want bespoke bevelers take a look at Barry Kings website. A few very nice looking tools there. I don't own them, so cannot recommend them directly, but if you're using Tandy stuff I think it's safe to assume the best.

Speaking of Tandy and French skivers. I went through a full peg of them and finally settled on the furthest back. This was around 10 tools. I'm fairly taken aback at how bad the quality is. I mean this tool should cost $5 and I would *highly* recommend against buying one sight unseen. Mine is barely sufficient and all of the ones before it fell even lower with piss poor uneven grinds.

Another idea for quality tools is Goods Japan. I've purchased a stitch groover from them and it is the highest quality I've seen in this type of tool. I did a thread about it and it has recommendations for their bevelers from another member. Might be worth a look.

Jason, have a look here-

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1203358

Pay the $3 or whatever it is for expedited shipping. Very much worth the money.
 
I would like to upgrade the tools I use the most. As a list I would like to upgrade my

#1 and #2 Edge Beveler.
Overstitching Wheels 5, 7, and 9 TPI for instance.
A set of round punches perhaps up to 3/8th inch.
A V-Gouger and perhaps a French Beveler


Who do you think makes tools better than the Craftool tools I have and fit a person who uses these tools every day?

Thanks for your suggestions.

TF
I'm with Paul buy what you use the most and buy the best you can afford
 
I would really recommend the Barry King edgers too. I have two of the Weaver Master tool edgers and they are very good also. In fact for one specific purpose I grab the Weaver first. For general use I prefer the Barry King's, however I think that is more just what you are use to as they are different styles. I use a #1, #2, #3 constantly and a #0 (Weaver) on occasion. Both brands are very good tools. The Weaver punches are simply the best I've used, period. They come sharp, they hit square, they hold an edge well and the round punches release from the leather easily. Paul gave you a good list and he is really right, you don't need the whole shooting match. Same deal if you ever get into carving, or stamping, get good tools but ya tend to use the same 5 or 6 all the time. #5 creaser is an absolute for me and Osborne makes a good one, I've not used the Weaver. A French Edger I simply do not use. I have two, somewhere. What can it do that I can't do with my round knife? I do use a v gouge as two of my sheath styles fold back on itself. Its an old Rampart Tool Co in size 3/32". Works very well. Found it at a yard sale gave a $1.50 for it. Like Paul said you can spend more on an overstitch wheel but why. What you have will work fine. They are pretty much the same. I'm a huge proponent of good tools.
 
I agree with Paul but I got the complete sets of everything. It was the dumbest thing I ever did . Never use them all. KT
 
I agree with Paul but I got the complete sets of everything. It was the dumbest thing I ever did . Never use them all. KT


Me too, Terry. That's how I got smart enough to give the advice not to do it!:o

Paul
 
Dave, I bought the French skiver to counter sink around the holes I make for the SB studs. I suppose I could use them for snaps too. The idea came from Al Stohlman and it works quite well. Put the leg in the hole and spin the tool around to remove the perfect amount of leather.

Outside of that, I have no use for the tool.
 
I do that with the corner of the round knife. Practice buddy.
 
You guys would probably roll around on the floor with wet pants if you saw my sad little collection of tools :)

Ken
 
You guys would probably roll around on the floor with wet pants if you saw my sad little collection of tools :)

Ken

It's THAT good?!

:D

Jason, did you ever get a maul/mallet? If so, which? I'm really thinking of pulling the trigger on a BK 32oz. They look as good or better than the Stohlmans and cost less to boot.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions - I have been wanting to order a Barry King knife and blade for some time - so I think I will check them out - and Weaver for sure.

Have I mentioned I am taking donations for my tools? ;)


Strig -

Yes - I bought a 32 and a 16 later for stamping from this site:

http://www.wrising.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=7&zenid=2c6fe08b9c54d24c5234e885ee91ba56

They are no names - but I have been using the 32 for about 6 months or so and it is great. Looks new.

TF
 
Strig, we've got two BKs, a Stohlman and a Weaver Master tool one. One of the BKs and the Stolhlman are 16oz ers. Got em for the wife. Quality wise they are about equal. She prefers the BK over the Stohlman by quite a bit. This is based merely on balance and feel. She was showing me and the Stohlman did feel awkward. The Weaver Master tool maul is not as "nice" in appearance as the BK but it sure works well, I use it almost exclusively for tooling and the BK for punches etc. BKs are really very reasonable in price for what they are.
 
I'm struggling with what size (weight) to buy. Everyone seems to prefer a relatively light maul for tooling. I currently use (I think) a 2lb dead blow where that weight is all in the top, yet I feel like I would want a maul at least that heavy.

Are they so different in feel that I should buy a maul that is lighter, or am I just different than everyone else?

Jason, thanks for the link. I'm going to go look right now. Hope you don't mind me jumping in your thread with a question?
 
I'm struggling with what size (weight) to buy. Everyone seems to prefer a relatively light maul for tooling. I currently use (I think) a 2lb dead blow where that weight is all in the top, yet I feel like I would want a maul at least that heavy.

Are they so different in feel that I should buy a maul that is lighter, or am I just different than everyone else?

Jason, thanks for the link. I'm going to go look right now. Hope you don't mind me jumping in your thread with a question?
Thats some good thinking, I have both a 2 pound maul and a 1 pound mallet and honestly I would not use a 2 pounder for stamping other than those big one hit stamps. When using back grounders and running stamps (ie lines and patterns) a one pounder is more than enough mass. A big heavy mallet gets just that, heavy with lots of use.

After using my Stohlman 1 pound mallet for six or so years I have grown to appreciate both the compact size and the short head. I tried to go to my old rawide mallet with the longer head and it felt so odd. I do think that the key to both the little Stohlman mallet and a maul is the compact head combined with the extra weight. But the flat face of my mallet I believe adds to my accuracy when doing fine work.

Someday I still want to get a 1 pound maul, just because. I dont need one, but the wants are there. But I have so many art supplies to get that the maul is a little speck on the horizon. ;) The new easel is going to cost me, that and all those cool pencils and pens. ....
 
Well I just weighed my two. The Weaver came in at one lb 13 oz and the BK came in at one lb 14 oz. The reason I use the BK for punches etc is the head is kind of chewed up. I guess I've had it for 15 -20 years. I could get a new head for it just havn't. I've had the Weaver for a couple a years I guess. I use it for all my tooling. I've tried the one pounders the wife has and they are just too feathery for me.
 
Alright, I think I'll go with a two pound BK maul. I have a lightweight (less than 1lb) yellow poly mallet (never touch it) and the dead blow. I can only imagine that the BK will be an improvement. After that (I know, I'm probably doing this backward) I'll start buying the good hand made stamps. I cannot justify the stamps quite yet, but I really dislike what I have to hit them with.

Thanks, sorry for butting in Jason. :o
 
Dave - that BK likely weighed a pound when you bought it! ;)

Strig - I am glad you asked this too - I love the new 1 pound maul (that I never weighed) and use the 2 pounder for bag punches and the bigger stamps.

TF
 
I used to have one of those yellow mallets, way too light, but heavier than those wooden things that come in some kits. I dont know how they expect those to work.

Curious. Does anyone here prefer one head material over another? I have both rawhide and poly and found that each has its uses. The rawhide has a softer impact while the poly has a nice sharp hit when I need it. Using big stamps that sharp impact can be handy.
 
I prefer and use the poly mauls, but have found there is no one size fits all regarding weights. I currently have three on my bench, 12oz., 25oz., and 2lb. The 12 gets the most use for general tooling and stamping, the 25 takes over for larger faced stamps or areas that need a deeper impression and well as punches and maker's mark duty. The 2 lb is reserved for much larger face stamps and other work where a very heavy strike is necessary, like bag punches through multi layers of leather.

Much like the overstitch wheels, I haven't found any real appreciable difference in poly mauls by way of maker. I have three different makers and they all do the job and do it well.

The different weights allow for a uniform strike force which delivers very consistent impression depth without having to just wham the hell out it with a lighter maul.

Paul
 
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