thinning down the coating on a BK-16

[fatherhudson]

So i'm in the process of reprofiling my bk16 (5 minutes here 5 minutes there whenever i get the time) and i'm thinking about thinning down the black blade coating just behind the bevel to maybe make it a better slicer. The coating is pretty thick and really rough so i thought it might improve the performance. I'm reprofiling at ~17.5 degrees so maybe i could do a couple passes at 15 degrees to smooth out the shoulders? I'm sure a lot of you have done this whether it was on purpose or not :Þ did it make much of a difference? did it affect the life of the coating a lot?

 

[jim62]

So i'm in the process of reprofiling my bk16 (5 minutes here 5 minutes there whenever i get the time) and i'm thinking about thinning down the black blade coating just behind the bevel to maybe make it a better slicer. The coating is pretty thick and really rough so i thought it might improve the performance. I'm reprofiling at ~17.5 degrees so maybe i could do a couple passes at 15 degrees to smooth out the shoulders? I'm sure a lot of you have done this whether it was on purpose or not :Þ did it make much of a difference? did it affect the life of the coating a lot?

F,

I have not done anything yet to the coating on my BK16 which i the only Becker I have with the new coating.

I build some Epoxy paint coated gunstocks While the stuff provides a great grip, the paint has enough "tooth" to it that it feels unconformable along the cheek piece etc on a shooter's face. In those cases, I have used 220 and 300 grit Black carbide Sandpaper to lightly knock the "tops" off the surface to make it less grippy.

I am still wanting on some etchant/equipment to more deeply the markings on my BK-16 before I strip it's blade for good- but in the interest of science I performed a little experiment with the handle portion of BK16.

From what I have seen, 400- grit Carbide paper works about perfectly. It takes the ridges off the paint surface and makes the coating about as slick as the old Becker coating. Use a flat backer for the sandpaper and also lubricate it with some water when sanding. It should slick it right up and yet preserve it's protective qualities.

 

[Chameleonbear]

Sounds like you're convexing your blade. From what I can tell, it doesn't affect the life of the coating THAT much but it does make it a much better slicer.

 

[thrillbilly]

I slicked the coating on my 4 (same coating as the Tweeners) and I think it improved the performance, plus it dont collect half of everything I cut anymore. I dont know how it will affect durability....but the new coating *from my understanding* is applied differently and is a different formula then the old coating, so even with the rough knocked down it should hold up quite a bit better then the old stuff does.