thinning out dymondwood?

S

SR_matt

Joined
Jan 4, 2007
Messages
623
hey,

i just got in a bunch of dymondwood from TKS and i realized that it was thicker than i thought.

what would be a good way to go about thinning it down some? just take it to my sander, set up my table saw to knock off 1/8-3/16? somethign else?

for some of my smaller knives i think i coudl almost cut the piece in half and use both pieces for the knife but for larger knives it seems like that would be to thin but ust leaving them and taking down just a little is almost to think?

and help would be great.

also for dymondwood do i need to sand with the "grain" like on a natrual wood or does it not matter?

thanks
-matt
 
Treat that Dymondwood just like you would treat any stabilized wood. It is simply laminated layers. If it is too thick, then grind to the desired thickness and sand (with the grain).

It can be very pretty if sanded and polished properly. Pay special attention to getting everything sanded even in order to show the layers.

Robert
 
This week I worked my first piece of Dymondwood, also from TKS. Before
starting I read an article on how to work Dymondwood and the info was
helpful. This stuff splinters easily! First select the side which will join the tang. Flatten that side. I rubbed mine on a strip of shop-roll against a flat
surface. From the flat side drill all holes. Drill only a little at a time. Lift the
drill and remove debris and allow the bit to slightly cool. Repeat. Even so you may see smoke! Quickly withdraw the drill. Supposedly heat can crack this stuff! When you drill through, no matter how carefully, the exit hole
will split out material around it. No matter since this stuff is so oversized.
Mine was supposed to be 3/8 (6/16) but I measured it at slightly over 7/16.
And there are problems with filing. If you reduce the thickness by filing
across the flats, the oposite side will be splintered by the file. I worked
around this by filing at an angle. On the good side I had no problems using
a sanding wheel. I sanded both across grain and with grain. This stuff is
made with polymers or epoxy and it will clog a sanding belt fast. If you have open-kote (coat) belts try those first. Also because of the polymers
it throws some dust into the air that has to be dangerous. And it does stink.
The stench gets in your clothes and nose. You might try sawing a thick piece into two sections. I just wonder if it will splinter enough so that the
two slabs will become too thin? I plan to email TKS and ask if they can
provide Dymondwood in 1/4 " material. Jesse Wilmer
 
ok so treat it like wook, drill carefuly/slowly/clearing frequently, and plan out before i grind to hopefuly show off the other layers.

that basicaly the gist of it right?
-matt
 
Yup, that's the gist of it all right. It's good stuff, just work slow and leave room for tear-through like wilmerj explained. It will take about as fine a finish as you care to put on it. Wear a dustmask for certain.

I think it would work really well checkered like a gunstock, but that's a bit beyond my skills...
 
thanks, how should i go about mtrying to expose the layers well, just shape the grips like normal or should i try to contore the sclae a lot so that they are almost wavy?

o and BTW good choice of guitars gibsonfan.
thanks
-matt
 
I will add my 2cents. Slow the drill press down, and place a piece of smooth wood under the dymondwood as you drill. When the drill does break through it will stop/reduce the splintering problem.. 2) when drilling holes for the squeeze style cuttlers rivets drill the hole one size larger than the rivet. This will allow room for expansion and eliminate splitting. For a 5/32 rivet, use a 11/64 drill bit. Be sure to use sharp drill bits, if in doubt stop and sharpen the bits. Dull bits are responsible for burning and cracking of wood, and improperly sized holes.

As others have mentioned, if the dymondwood is too thick, simply grind a layer or two off of it. I first cut the scales to shape for the handle, then grind them down to desired thickness. But pay attention, take a little off of each scale, lay them down of the bench to compare symettry. If one is bigger than the other, then take it down abit more on the grinder.
 
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