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thinning steel

G

GRapp

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Nov 14, 2022
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I have some leaf springs that I'd like to make some knives from. I understand I don't know the exact composition and therefore don't know the exact HT parameters. If the truck these came from wasn't sentimental, I wouldn't be doing this. However, I'm considering it. So my question is how can I thin it down?
I don't have a rolling mill and the ones I looked at that are monetarily feasible I doubt can handle this. Correct me if I'm mistaken though.
My 25 ton press is manually operated.
My shoulder cries and threatens rebellion every time I think about hammering it out.
Do I have options, or should I stay in my lane and continue removing stock before I hurt myself? Keep in mind, I'm making knives as a hobby. It will never be a profession so large investments are not happening.
 
How much thickness do you need to remove? I made some knives from leaf springs years ago and thinned them down with just a large bench grinder. A large contact wheel on a belt grinder could get the job done even better. Grind parallel to the bar and keep it moving while grinding on the bottom side of the wheel. Done correctly you can keep it flat enough that some draw filing will correct any waviness.
 
A power hammer or a press should make short work out of drawing out those springs. You only need about 6" of one to draw out a 12" blank.
 
Find a local smith, most I know would do this for a minimal fee even if they don't know the person.
If I understand correctly, if they are US made, the steel is most likely 5160.
You may already know this, but If it came from an older, well used truck (which it sounds like) you might be plagued with microcracks all throughout the piece, so it might not be worth the effort.
 
weo, I hadn't thought of that. This is a '77, so it might be no bueno. At this point, my only option is grinding it down like Contender said but that is a lot to grind. They appear to be about 5/8-3/4" thick. Maybe I'll meet a smith at Bladeshow TX this weekend that just loves to squeeze steel in his/her mill or hammer. Thanx for the ideas folks.
 
Yeah the springs I ground down weren't nearly that thick. I'm sure someone will smash them for you.
 
GRapp said:
I was under the impression a hand cranked press was too slow. Too much heat transfer. Am I wrong?
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If you are speaking of something like a "25 ton hydraulic brake press" from Harbor Freight or the like, you are correct, not right for this application.
Check around at Blade TX. Much like North Carolina, it's hard to throw a rock in Texas without hitting a knife maker. Very cool.
Reach out. Knifemakers like to help. You might even want to haul a hunk of that iron to the Show with ya as you introduce yourself. Sorta like stinkbait, eh? "Whatcha got there?" ;)
 
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My press is not a brake press. It is a Dake MODEL 25H. Could it work, or too slow?

I certainly plan to meet some folks at Blade. However, my intentions are to mingle with the local community, learn, share ideas over time. My intentions are not to meet folks so I can borrow tools. I'm not saying I can't do both, but I'd much rather be seen as a guy who's eager to learn and help rather than a guy who needs stuff. Maybe one day I could ask to use a tool, but that won't be anytime soon.
 
GRapp said:
My press is not a brake press. It is a Dake MODEL 25H. Could it work, or too slow?
Click to expand...
It might be too slow, but keep in mind, slow is a relative term.
As a blacksmith who can still swing a hammer, for steels up to ~1", using a hammer and anvil would be faster than that press.
But if you can't swing a hammer, that press will move the steel faster than just looking at it. Because the dies will quickly suck the heat out of a billet, you might only get one good squish per heat with that press. Whereas forging presses are fast enough that you can get multiple squishes (10+ or more) per heat. That's why knifemakers constantly reply that those type of press are too slow.
(Have you thought about trying to find a striker who can swing a sledge hammer to help?)
 
My 15yo son could help. Maybe between the 2 of us, something good can happen. Those micro cracks you mentioned. Could stacking, forge welding, and drawing back out eliminate those, assuming they exist?
 
Cut small strips off instead of trying to thin the whole spring. A piece of 5/8" square can easily forge out into a 1.25" wide blade. Use a torch or plasma if you can. If using a cutoff disc then run the temp of the spring up to a dull red below magnetic to soften it up some first. With a 2# rounding hammer you can thin a smaller strip out in 15 minutes this way. Most springs from that era I have found to be 5160 or something that acts just like it and forge welding to itself can be tricky cause of the chromium and likely not going to fix any cracks unless maybe using a canister and forging from all directions which would be a ton of work. I have forged a few springs out and not run into any cracks so you may not run into them and since these are sentimental then why not give it a shot.
 
S obsessed has a very good suggestion. Work it almost welding hot as you draw and spread it. Then lower the heat as you refine the blade.

As far as your Drake press, it is not for forging. It is for assembly/disassembly of parts like bearings. There is not a lot of knifemaking uses.
 
GRapp said:
My press is not a brake press. It is a Dake MODEL 25H. Could it work, or too slow?

I certainly plan to meet some folks at Blade. However, my intentions are to mingle with the local community, learn, share ideas over time. My intentions are not to meet folks so I can borrow tools. I'm not saying I can't do both, but I'd much rather be seen as a guy who's eager to learn and help rather than a guy who needs stuff. Maybe one day I could ask to use a tool, but that won't be anytime soon.
Click to expand...

You do you, by all means. Good luck with your project.
 
99% of knifemakers are more than willing to have someone come over and show them how to use a press or power hammer. Many would also be glad to demonstrate how the piece could be drawn out by hand. Your project will take longer to heat the forge than to draw out the metal. There are a lot of makers in Texas. I bet one would be glad to help you. Meeting him/her at Blade is a great way to introduce yourself to a new friend.
 
Personally, I found that buying bar stock steel in my preferred thickness from a reputable dealer of a known steel eliminates a lot of ???????? While I made a few knives from files & mystery steels I wanted to know what the heck I was working with & most importantly selling to my customers! YMMV.. Stay safe & have fun!
 
I haven't heard using a guillotine suggestion. I haven't used one for what you need to do, but it concentrates force in a smaller area and you might be able to work a couple spots per heat. Good luck
 
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