This forum cost me some $$$; now I need help

[MT Hanson]

After years of carrying a SAK or an old 110 when I needed something bigger, I decided on some new purchases (after a few months of reading the forum). I also had only crock sticks and one of those horrid draw-through things for kitchen knives in the sharpening category, so I got a WorkSharp (wanted to go convex), built a strop and got some white compound from Home Depot. Now, I apparently need some help. I guess I'm going for push-cutting news print, simply because it's easy to measure. I learned the WS on the cheap kitchen knives, and I'm careful with heat and the tips.

CS Recon (stripped): easiest to sharpen and gets the most use. Yard work, house projects, some camping. I don't typically abuse knives, but if I do it will be this one. Used the 220 belt, then the 6000 (doesn't seem like it does much), then strop. It will shave, cut newspaper in both directions. I think I have this one sorted out.

Ratmandu: used for.....eh, who am I kidding. It's used for not much. But I didn't have a good fixed blade, and 14 years in the infantry taught me that it's better to have and not need than need and not have. So I have it. I used it some to see what it would do, and the factory bevel wasn't even, so I eventually put it on the WS as well after it laughed at my crock sticks. The WS definitely didn't take it off like it did with the others, and I stropped a LOT to get the edge finished (figured it was safer). It will push cut both ways, but to my uneducated thumb the edge feels really smooth. If I didn't see it cut I wouldn't think it had been sharpened at all. A property of the steel, maybe?

Standard black Leek. My EDC office, gentleman's knife; will see only very light use. It's kicking my behind. Do the same thing as I did on the others, and it will cut newsprint with the grain only, but it's not very smooth. It will shave, somewhat. I think the angle is shallower than the Recon, and I've adjusted accordingly (and sharpied), but something's not working.

So, my questions:
Is newsprint a decent sharpening metric? Is there a better way to test an edge?
Will stropping pretty much eliminate the chance of a wire edge? Or will it just push one back & forth?
I know steels behave differently; is my success with the Aus8 and trouble with the Leek (I don't know which Sandvik it is) normal? I've never had a problem with my old Buck, but I understand they're notoriously easy to sharpen.
The 6000 belt on the WS seems fairly useless. Looks like I need to get some more grits; 400 and 800?

I'm not going for whittling hairs or anything. I'm very happy with the WS, so for right now I'd like to stay with it and a strop(s). Any tips/pointers will be appreciated.

 

[MT Hanson]

Forgot to add, I'm using the WS freehand on my good knives, edge trailing only. 20 degrees for the Recon, slightly less for the Leek, and the RMD is a good 25; maybe more.

 

[Komitadjie]

I can't do a WHOLE bunch for answering your questions there, but I can shed some light, perhaps.

1: Convex edges cut a LOT better than they feel. For some reason they always feel a tad blunt to me, even when they're whisker-trimming, paper-carving sharp. If it works well, don't worry about it.

2: That's waaaaaay too large of a jump in belts. I'm not sure how their grit system works, but I would definitely get some intermediate grits. When I'm going for a polished edge on my Kalamazoo, I usually use about five belts on the way to 'sharp', not counting the two leather ones with compounds. I sharpened a Leek here with the belt just about a week ago, and it came out well, with a very nearly mirrored convex edge. My thought there would be to just keep working on it, go gently and keep that tip cool, especially. Fine tips are REALLY easy to warm up fast.

 

[spiralarchitect]

Generally you will have to chase the wire edge on Sandvik a bit. I do mine to about 600 grit then strop with flitz on leather.... it does a really nice job. I would try some lower grits and strop then check it. I have always progressed up through several grits when working Sandvik to get to the 600. I don't know what it is, but, something about Kershaw Sandvik just seems to love its wire edge. However, once you defeat it..... you will be greatly rewarded.

 

[MT Hanson]

I can't even get to a wire edge on the Leek; can't get a burr, nothing. I guess a 220 belt just isn't going to do it. I can get it serviceable by using the 220 and then stropping....and stropping....and stropping. Unfortunately, it's the one I'd like to get sharpest because it'll see the lightest use and won't need much maintenance.

Time to order belts, I guess.

 

[eccvets]

i agree that the jump in grit size is way too big. also, are you sure your getting to the edge? if you know you are, how do you know? finnaly, why are you not trying to get your knifes sharp enough to wittle free sanding hair? You got a motorized system, it should be doing all the work for you! your not just using the angle gauge on the works sharpener are you?

Paper is not a good substrate to test an edge. at minimum a knife should be able to push cut newsprint. even hair isnt really a good indication of testing a knife as all hair is different, even when it comes from your own head although it is better then paper. after you can wittle free standing hair. take it to a microscope to really figure out whats going on if you really wanna know whats what...

 

[eccvets]

I can't even get to a wire edge on the Leek; can't get a burr, nothing. I guess a 220 belt just isn't going to do it. I can get it serviceable by using the 220 and then stropping....and stropping....and stropping. Unfortunately, it's the one I'd like to get sharpest because it'll see the lightest use and won't need much maintenance.

Time to order belts, I guess.

if your not getting a wire edge/burr, your not getting to the edge of the blade at all! try using a sharpie marker to see how much your taking off and use some kind of magnification device to get a closer look cuz even though you dont see any sharpie doesnt mean there isn't a very thin line on there still.

P.S. all that stroping you did was a waste of time.

 

[eccvets]

oh, i forgot to mention one little thing i like to do. I tap the entire edge of the blade agaisnt my nails gently to see if they will catch. If they dont on one side of the blade, that means there is probally still a wire edge on that side which needs to be removed. you can use a needle as well and slide it off the edge of the blade. if it catchs, you know where you gotta work on more.

 

[cramsey3006]

The Work Sharp isn't your problem. I've got one of the first ones to hit the market and I sharpen EVERYTHING on it. Kershaw, Kabar, custom, etc.

If you aren't getting a wire edge, you aren't hitting the edge with your sharpener. Period. Maybe your freehand technique isn't steady enough to get a consistent angle. Have you tried using the guide? The guide WILL allow you to get a newspaper cutting, hair shaving edge. Use your 220 belt and do 5-10 strokes on each side. You should have an edge that will shave hair. Then put the 6000 on and run the blade 5 passes on each side and you will have a very sharp edge.

Stropping a blade that isn't sharp already is an exercise in futility. On your Rat, if the edge is uneven, put the 80 grit on the machine and set your bevels. It cuts fast, so be aware of what you are doing. When you have even bevels, then use the 220 for 5 or 6 passes per side and check for sharpness. If it's not easily slicing paper, do a few more passes. See if it shaves. If so, then use the 6000 and do 5 or 6 passes per side.

Strop if after you get done and you should be good to go.

I break a wire edge by running the knife edge at an angle against a piece of wood. It'll bite in and get rid of the wire edge. Then you finish touching it up.