This May Be a Common RMD Thread Question But...

knifewing

knifewing

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Sep 16, 2006
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I want to buy a RatManDu and am wondering what the difference is between paper micarta and linen or canvas micarta? I'm familiar with linen and canvas from Bark River and Esee. Is paper micarta as durable? Is it preferable for RMD handle scales? Any opinions on this? Thanks for any info you can provide.
 
It is smoother and less durable, but very nice:) Still durable, just not as much as canvas.
Al
 
The paper is a smoother and slicker IMHO I prefer the canvas because it is "gripier". Not sure if that is a word but canvas just grabs my hand better.

*Just to be fair I own several RMDs and have both types. You can't lose either way!
 
Paper is great and clean looking. Canvas in more textured with the fibers in it causing more grip. Some people even dye canvas micarta. G10 is heavier than canvas but durable! I like canvas for users like choppers for grip. I like paper for my smaller blades. Just a personal prefference.
 
Thanks for your input and the info. Since I'll only have one RMD (for now) and I appreciate more "grippiness" I'll look for the standard canvas.
 
I just ordered and recieved my new Ratmandu. Satin blade w/Black Canvas Micarta and some liners for extra width on the slabs! You can't beat it!
 
I'll try but they'll be hard to see as they are gray/silver. I wasn't after the color effect, just the spacing.
 
OK you dirty Rats. So I suck at taking pics. My cat shredded the tissue paper on my light box. These will have to do for now. Meet my baby.
Now I need to get a kydex sheath made for her. Who could I get to make me one?

Knifewing, I wasn't trying to hyjack you out. I hope you're not mad. At least you can see what you could have? IMO, canvas has better grip if damp.
 
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Looks great! :thumbup: Very utilitarian, blends well with the steel and scales. How much did the shop charge you for those customizations, if I'm allowed to ask? These FFG RMDs are killing me :cool:
 
No problem with the jacking :) I have a bunch of questions about SR knives. And you just answered three: about spacers being available, about satin finish being available, and about the existence of FFG RMDs. Now if someone would just tell me what makes a RMD LE different, I'd be ready to order...
 
knifewing said:
No problem with the jacking :) I have a bunch of questions about SR knives. And you just answered three: about spacers being available, about satin finish being available, and about the existence of FFG RMDs. Now if someone would just tell me what makes a RMD LE different, I'd be ready to order...
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RMD-LE comes standard with saber-grind on a satin blade and black G10 (?) scales, priced ~$180 from the shop? Customized satin-finish FFG with liners, etc. is special order only, you'd have to contact the shop for a quote...
 
Mine has a zero grind? I asked for a convex grind and they said this is as close as we can get. Can someone splain the zero grind? And I naming that right?
 
porkbilly.223 said:
Mine has a zero grind? I asked for a convex grind and they said this is as close as we can get. Can someone splain the zero grind? And I naming that right?
Click to expand...
The blade is ground with without a definite micro-bevel at the edge. A blended "ultra-convex" grind is flat ground with a convex final microbevel at the edge (what stropping produces). A microbevel widens the final edge angle, making it more obtuse at the apex than "zero-grind" would produce, enhancing edge strength but reducing cutting ability.
 
Isaacson has moved on to apparently a better spot in the swamp. Hindsight is the contact on here nowadays, & I've got a custom Solution that's moved into a special place in my heart! Really pissed I passed on 'em when they were a regular offerin'!
 
porkbilly.223 said:
Is this a desirable/easily maintainable edge?
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Is "zero-grind" easily maintainable?
That depends on how wide the bevel is and how you want to maintain your edge.
A zero-grind is more acute at the edge than if it had a secondary bevel increasing the apex edge angle. Most users/makers strop the edge as a final step in maintenance, which puts a micro-convex bevel at the apex (can be invisible to the eye). If the edge is quite narrow and not overly hard, the steel may roll or fold out of alignment and may be stropped or steeled back into alignment to maintain cutting efficiency and durability (i.e. to keep the edge from folding over and/or tearing/chipping away). For all this level of maintenance, a zero-grind is easy to maintain and evinces superior cutting performance.

Once the edge is sufficiently damaged (apex is lost), restoring that edge at the same angle as previously held requires removal of material along the bevel. A "zero-grind" usually entails a wider bevel, which translates to more material to remove to restore the edge at the original angle which takes more time, skill, and resources than a narrower bevel requires. In such circumstances, a zero-grind is harder to maintain. However, if the user is not concerned without maintaining the same edge angle as previously held, he/she can adjust the sharpening angle slightly wider and create a secondary bevel narrower than the primary bevel, thus reducing the amount of material that must be removed (and the time, skill, and resources required) to restore the edge, making it "easier" to maintain in the field. The new edge will be just as "sharp" at the apex, will have more material support to enhance durability (including resistance to folding), but the wider edge-angle will reduce cutting efficiency in certain media.

In practice, one wants the most acute edge-angle possible while retaining sufficient edge-durability to not hamper performance. If your "zero-grind" knife can hold a sharp edge during your use of it without requiring frequent maintenance, :thumbup:. If not, you might consider giving it a secondary bevel...




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