Thoughts on newer Old Timer fixed blades

Stringplucker

Stringplucker

Joined
Jun 1, 2016
Messages
152
Good evening everyone. I recently ordered two replacement knives for a pair that was liberated from my vehicle last week. Both were in the back end of my SUV, hidden from sight. Apparently some teenager decided he wanted to bust a window out and have a look-see at what I leave in my vehicle. Nonetheless, being a creature of habit, I decided to go ahead and replace these blades.

I've been the proud owner of an Old Timer Deerslayer and an Old Timer Sharpfinger for over 25 years. Mine were made back when they made them out of good carbon steel...the stuff that could show it's age...made in the USA. The replacements appear to be made in Chicom out of SS. It's been my experience that the Chicom SS doesn't hold an edge near as good as carbon steel. I've already made the order, and should have these blades in my hand in a couple of days. I'd like to know what everyone's opinion of the newer Old Timer blades are.

Thank you
 
They're ok for the price and the examples I've experienced are actually better made than my 2 old timer folders, granted mine are both lemons that happened to slip through so it's not really a fair comparison. The schrade carbon steel is better imo, but I've heard that the Chinese stainless they're using now pretty comparable to the uncle Henry or schrade + blades.
 
The prices on them were good...two knives with leather sheaths for under $45. I can't remember what I paid for the originals, but I know it wasn't necessarily cheap. I've always liked the Sharpfinger design...nice swept down handle with a swept up blade. Perfect feel in the hand with ample thumbrest. The Deerslayer was ample enough for most jobs. I used both of them a number of times to clean game over the years. I hope the new ones are close enough to what the originals were, because I really liked those blades.
 
The Taylor Schrade Imperial/Old Timer/Uncle Henry knives I have are all slip joints or lockbacks, with stainless blades. They seem to hold an edge just as well as my old US made 6OT, 7OT, and LB7, all with the Schrade+ stainless blades.
Fit and finish of the Taylor Schrades I have are every bit as good as the US made samples I have.
 
They are just as good knifes. Been happy with mine.. But your old ones in that carbon will take and keep better edge. Sorry for you loss.
 
Last edited:
I bought a sharpfinger out of curiosity and slung in on my belt to try her out. It lasted a few days until I sat down in my truck and heard the handle make a pop sound... upon immediate investigation the handles were loose, and I was confused. I'm not an overly large guy (6'2" and 235lbs) and I've never had the sometimes awkward position of a belt knife in a truck seat damage any other knife in any way, well here is what I found:

At $20-25 curiosity overpowered the notion of a replacement, so I tried to re-peen the rivets to tighten the scales which had absolutely zero effect. Then I noticed one of the rivets had sunk without mushrooming or pushing out the other side which is impossible so I grabbed a screwdriver and pried the scales off (the fact that I was able to do that is a problem in itself.) I then found that the scales are not solid but hollow and made of a material that doesn't behave at all like real Delrin, its quite a bit mar-able and bendable, and appeared to have been molded which is very curious if it was delrin. Also, the rivets aren't rivets, they are Chicago screws with faux rivet heads pressed on and are undersized for the holes in the tang which allow them to shift around if loose. I just rehandled it with some white oak(solid) and brass rod stock for rivets(also solid) and it proved to be quite a nice blade, taking and holding a decent edge, and durable. I eventually ended up giving it away to a very happy recipient.

I'm sure most people haven't had this problem, but the fact stands that the construction is deceptive and substantially weaker than the U.S. made predecessor.

I am not impressed with Taylor Brands in the slightest, not specific to this knife but rather to the company: I had a Taylor Brands Camillus with a faulty linerlock detent open in my pocket and slice my finger open (I afterwords discovered that you could lightly shake it and the blade would fall open). I emailed their customer service explaining that the knife had injured me due to a design/material failure seeking a replacement, and no response. Re-sent email after 2 weeks, still haven't heard from them, its been over 2 years.
 
Being a schrade collector I strongly, strongly dislike the chinese ones. That being said I have tried some, just to see what they're like and I can't honestly say they are bad knives no matter how much I don't like them. But, the usa ones are still pretty available, if you so choose to get some.
 
I picked up this current production Uncle Henry PH1N and I love it. Price considered I think its a great value. Good old carbon steel would probably hold an edge longer, but the current production stainless isn't disappointing. Honestly for the money their a great bang for your buck.

 
Thanks for the info on handle construction, as well as the information on it keeping an edge. Honestly, those are concerns I have about the Chicom made versions. With my old ones, I kept them to a keen razor sharp edge. I've not had good results doing the same with blades from China. The edge rolls too easily on the ones I've had in the past. I've got a Chinese made folder that I carry everywhere after losing the Buck my dad bought me when I was a kid. I paid $5 at a U-haul depot. It feels nice,easy to open with the flick of a thumb, and is easy to keep at hand with the pocket clip, but won't hold an edge very long.

Losing that sharpfinger upset me the most, since it's been the handiest blade for day to day use. I don't think I've ever carried a blade that felt as perfect for me as that one. I hope the sheath is as good as the old leather one was.
 
The Deerslayer came in this morning. While it's a decent enough version of the original, it's far from the original. The scales have a definite mismatch step between the blade handle and the scales, where my original was seamless. One scale is slightly cocked from the other. The "rivets" aren't right...one is at a slight angle. The textured surface isn't flat, it has a roundness to it. The sheath doesn't catch the finger guard to act as a retention point. The first serration of the thumb rest has been washed away by sanding and polishing, as well. The font on the nameplate is different, and the nameplate is barely attached...it feels like it will likely fall off in short time.

The above being stated, it's not a bad knife for the low price. There are points on it that I plan on addressing...the scales being the last. The knife edge is chattered, so that will be my starting point. Once I get that smooth and keen, I'll move on to the sheath, and add a stitch or two to fix retention. The scales will be the last item I tackle, if I get that far before getting my hands on a Schrade USA Old Timer.

The hunt continues. I plan on keeping this, and the sharpfinger when it comes in...as a reminder of what US manufacturing quality used to be, before the bean counters took over.

I know it sounds like I'm being picky, but the quality of the brand and name is what drew me to the brand in the first place, many years ago. I hope you can see the flaws I found in the new Old Timer, and that it helps someone in the future in deciding on the brand. Like I said, overall, it's a decent knife for the price. Quality is nothing like it used to be, though. I'd like to see them make a version like it was when it was made int he USA, with attention to details in material chosen, and construction. Have a budget level and a classic level. But...it's a serviceable blade that can be worked on to be made better.

***EDIT*** Upon closer inspection, the left side of the blade with spine being top, is bent slightly to the left. I will see if I can't bend it back into shape. I thought about sending it back, but the hassle of dealing with returns over the 'net versus the money I spent isn't worth it. On the bright side...if this one winds up sprouting legs in the future, I won't be out that much, and it wasn't a high quality blade to worry about. LOL

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc

screenshot on pc
 
Last edited:
Well, I've made the decision to scrap the scales on it, and make a set. I just can't get past the step between handle and tang. I'll likely go with Delrin. Once I'm done with a few other projects, I'll start in on this.
 
The original U.S. made knives in the two patterns aforementioned are available on the internet auction site EVERY DAY in poor, fair, good, and excellent condition at (usually) very affordable prices. Am I missing something here?
 
Some people, myself included, occasionally insist on learning stuff the hard way. The US made sharpfingers cost on average 3 times more than the taylor brands version which is in my opinion very much worth it. However, they are so cheap that not much is lost, and in my case it made an easy rehandle project. I personally wont buy another unless its US made, but I still see value in tinkering with cheap stuff.

Matter of fact I ordered a US made Old Timer Minuteman last week, and its supposed to deliver today!
 
Aside from the pinned thru bolster construction of the folders, Taylor cutlery has completely destroyed the schrade brands it makes. Dont support counterfeiting. Dont buy american brands that sold out to chicom slavelots.
 
Lesson learned. The Taylor Brands version will wind up with a reworked handle. Wife has decided she wants it as a truck knife to replace the knife she currently has in that duty.

I've got a Schrade USA version of the 15OT, as well as the 152OT from an online auction site. The 15OT (Deerslayer) shows some patina, but no pits and no signs of use...no box The 152OT (Sharpfinger) is one of the early models, with a single restraining strap on the sheath coming around from the back to be snapped on the front, and leather lanyard attached. Minor patina as well. You just can't beat good steel like this.

I hope this thread can go to help someone in the future.
 
I keep seeing a small Old Timer fixed blade, full tang with a finger choil, but the steel is 3cr13mov... If it were even an 8cr13mov it would be ok but I feel it would just be disappointing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top