Thoughts on rust removal vs Damascus?

S

shootershack

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Boy I hated to see this when I opened this box. Poor storage prior to me acquiring it. I called Boker they had nothing to offer and referred me to Ross Cutlery who does their work. They can clean/sharpen although it'll lose some pattern since they won't acid etch it again. I contemplated just a soak in evap-o-rust since it's fairly benign just to see what would clean up. Any other thoughts from the pure men of genius here?
Thanks
Alan

(I also have the similar knife Tirpitz which is perfect so it pains me for its brother to suffer) Tirpitz picture just for fun


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Don't touch it!

I posted this yesterday.

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Put the knife tip down, in a glass jar or cup. Fill it with Evaporust to cover the rust on the blade.

Let it sit for a couple hours to overnight. It will get rid of the rust, if there's any pitting, it just became an EDC knife/user.
 
I'm not sure. I wouldn't think so but who knows. We are about to find out soon enough though. I'll try it this weekend maybe.
 
My help is mostly elementary,
1. spray wd40 in a cup until you can submerge the knife in it then scrub it with a old tooth brush.
2. Flitz
3. Gun oil and scrub the area with a piece of hardwood (old world method)
4. The softest sandpaper you can find and polish it in overlapping circles slowly, (there will be damage to the blade with this method)
5. Boiled linseed oil and a soft brush
 
From their page.

EVAPO-RUST® rust remover works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution.

Most chelating agents bind many different metals.

The active ingredient in EVAPO-RUST® bonds to iron exclusively. It can remove iron from iron oxide but is too weak to remove iron from steel where the iron is held much more strongly. Once the chelating agent has removed the iron, a sulfur-bearing organic molecule pulls the iron away from the chelator and forms a ferric sulfate complex which remains water soluble. This frees the chelating agent to remove more iron from rust.
 
Would Bar Keeper's Friend liquid cleaner remove it without too much damage? I would try putting a little on a paper towel and rub the spot for a few seconds, followed by an immediate rinse and dry.
 
Last edited:
Bill DeShivs said:
I know how Evaporust works.
It can also remove the etching background.
I have been restoring/repairing knives for 55 years.
Click to expand...
I’m with you, Bill. I’ve used Evaporust on a bunch of different items and only a handful of results was I happy with. It’s hit and miss and a big risk.
 
Mk-211 said:
From their page.

EVAPO-RUST® rust remover works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution.

Most chelating agents bind many different metals.

The active ingredient in EVAPO-RUST® bonds to iron exclusively. It can remove iron from iron oxide but is too weak to remove iron from steel where the iron is held much more strongly. Once the chelating agent has removed the iron, a sulfur-bearing organic molecule pulls the iron away from the chelator and forms a ferric sulfate complex which remains water soluble. This frees the chelating agent to remove more iron from rust.
Click to expand...
I think I'd take 55 years of experience over the manufacturer's recommendation.--
I'm a big fan of 0000 steel wool any way.
 
I would be more worried about leaving the rust and the pitting it can cause than the exaggerated concerns of evaporust.

Invasive methods of rubbing it with something abrasive will likely scratch the surface making even more work. Rust erasers, barkeepers friend, wicked clean and steel wool will all scratch/alter the surface.

OP's choice ultimately, but I would always pick the non-invasive method when there can be concerns of hurting the original finish.
 
Bronze wool should be softer than the steel, but harder than the rust. I would attempt with oil and bronze wool.
 
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I soaked this knife in Evaporust, had to do it in steps, then clean around the logos with q-tips.

The last picture is after I buffed it out with my dremel.
 
I thought that second pic was it.

After looking... can't find it, it didn't have as much as the side pictured. Just a few spots.
 
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