Threaded Tangs

M

mpcoppin

Joined
Dec 8, 2017
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I’ve been looking at different ways to get threads on the end of a stick tang and had an idea/question.

Has anybody used something like a spring swage to round out the end of the tang?

I read complaints about how it’s too hard to file it to round and others about how they can never get the threads to work unless it’s perfectly round.

Wouldn’t a spring swage get you close enough to run a die and thread it.
 
I would say that it is much easier than you think.
Even on my first few blades, this is one step that I didn't mess up.
I use my grinder, and approach gently, rotating the piece. Stop frequently to mic it. It is also important to hold it flat against the wheel so you don't taper and make a cone.
In the end it is pretty forgiving. My worst were at least 10% off of being round, but still worked fine.
I usually jb weld it for a non-removable fit.
 
Grinder and a pair of calipers. Of course, I am working with tang that has not been hardened.
 
Could you take the pilot out of a (interchangeable pilot) counterbore & use it like a hollow mill to make it round before threading?

I think I'm going to give that a try.
 
I like to add a threaded extension, myself. That way if I want to, I can add threads larger than the tang thickness would allow.
Not really what you were wanting to hear maybe, but just thought I'd mention it as an option to keep in mind.
 
You can also do a "clevis" hinged setup too. That can make a screwed on buttcap a bit easier.
Salem Straub said:
I like to add a threaded extension, myself. That way if I want to, I can add threads larger than the tang thickness would allow.
Not really what you were wanting to hear maybe, but just thought I'd mention it as an option to keep in mind.
Click to expand...
 
I'm with Salem … make the tang as a tang, and weld/braze a piece of threaded rod to the end. That way you get to choose size, pitch, metal type, etc.

TIP:
When adding a threaded extension to the tang, cut a slot the width of the rod in the tang before HT. After the blade is done, put the threaded rod in the slot , whack it with a hammer a few times to lock it in tight, and weld or braze it in place. Then you can grind away any excess tang to get the transition needed.
 
Agree with Stacey, brazzing a piece of threaded rod into a slot is the better solution. I personally do not trust in threads cut on the tang itself. The slot can also be cut with angle grinder and a thin cutting disc after HT.
 
I've been toying with the idea of making a tenon spring swage type of deal so I could forge the end of the tang to size and then run a die over the end to cut my threads. I never see anybody do this though but I've wanted to try it for a while now!
 
You do realize that you have just claimed on a public knife forum that you trust the pot metal all-thread that you bought at Home Depot more than the steel that you have carefully chosen for your blades, right? :D
Armin Drumm said:
Agree with Stacey, brazzing a piece of threaded rod into a slot is the better solution. I personally do not trust in threads cut on the tang itself. The slot can also be cut with angle grinder and a thin cutting disc after HT.
Click to expand...
 
Make a T-shaped hole at the end of the tang and put the head of a screw in there with the thread sticking out
 
That works as well as anything if you don't want the threaded rod to pivot. Machine screws, baby!!!!!
Hengelo_77 said:
Make a T-shaped hole at the end of the tang and put the head of a screw in there with the thread sticking out
Click to expand...
 
It's not that hard. Make sure it's annealed, then start with a square section that matches the diameter of the thread. Take the corners off at 45° to make it octagonal, being careful to keep the facets parallel and equal. Then round off the corners.
It doesn't have to be perfectly round, it just can't be too big, and the part you're threading can't be hardened.
It also helps to leave the shank a little long and taper the end to make the die start easier. As always with thread cutting, use good quality taps/dies, and use oil. It gets better with practice, like everything else.
 
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jdm61 said:
You do realize that you have just claimed on a public knife forum that you trust the pot metal all-thread that you bought at Home Depot more than the steel that you have carefully chosen for your blades, right? :D
Click to expand...
Do I want to cut with the tang?
And yes, I trust more in the rolled thread of a threaded bar than into a thread which was cut into tool steel.
 
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