Matthew Gregory
Chief Executive in charge of Entertainment
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2005
- Messages
- 6,395
I've been meaning to get around to making a useful boning knife for a while. All the one's I have suck, and with deer season not all that far away now, it'll be called upon for duty. Yet, I put the project off, again and again... until I didn't have any choice, because it absolutely NEEDED to be done. I had a standing request for a set from someone, and had been waiting for the right inspiration (and the right complement of handle material!), and a few weeks ago it all came together.
I acquired a pile of blocks of what looked to be really nice curly maple from my now-in-Europe brother Derrick Wulf, all of which came from his former state of Vermont. I'm supposed to be referring to it as 'Vermont curly sugar maple', I think, as this apparently is really important to people in Vermont. I'll let them believe this, as there's no point in arguing with them - they just don't hear you, and everything from Vermont is superior in every respect.
I cleaned a bunch of it up, and shipped it to my stabilizer, and asked him to dye some with what he felt was a good choice of color.
This is what I got back, and I WISH I could capture the flame and flash in this with a lens. I've only seen chatoyance like this in a few pieces of the craziest Koa - it's THAT crazy. Kind of shit that keeps me awake at night. Point is, there were exactly three pieces that exhibited precisely the same type of action and figure, so it was high time to commence the project!
The chef is my usual 8" pattern in .098" AEB-L, full distal taper, and is just over 2" at the heel. The 7" boning knife is of the same stock, but offers a full thickness spine until about and inch and a half from the tip, where it tapers naturally to a point. I think I'm going to try a couple in .080" stock to see if a bit more flex is a good thing. All the boning knives I've used before didn't offer much, but there's a couple folks that have mentioned I should try it. We'll see! The 3.5" paring knife is .052" thick, and full distal taper, so it's flex-y and thin as hell, and slices like a razor.
I'm awaiting the magnets I ordered so can finish the matching magnetic wall holder I'm making for these, then they're off to their final destination.
Thanks for looking!
I acquired a pile of blocks of what looked to be really nice curly maple from my now-in-Europe brother Derrick Wulf, all of which came from his former state of Vermont. I'm supposed to be referring to it as 'Vermont curly sugar maple', I think, as this apparently is really important to people in Vermont. I'll let them believe this, as there's no point in arguing with them - they just don't hear you, and everything from Vermont is superior in every respect.

This is what I got back, and I WISH I could capture the flame and flash in this with a lens. I've only seen chatoyance like this in a few pieces of the craziest Koa - it's THAT crazy. Kind of shit that keeps me awake at night. Point is, there were exactly three pieces that exhibited precisely the same type of action and figure, so it was high time to commence the project!

The chef is my usual 8" pattern in .098" AEB-L, full distal taper, and is just over 2" at the heel. The 7" boning knife is of the same stock, but offers a full thickness spine until about and inch and a half from the tip, where it tapers naturally to a point. I think I'm going to try a couple in .080" stock to see if a bit more flex is a good thing. All the boning knives I've used before didn't offer much, but there's a couple folks that have mentioned I should try it. We'll see! The 3.5" paring knife is .052" thick, and full distal taper, so it's flex-y and thin as hell, and slices like a razor.
I'm awaiting the magnets I ordered so can finish the matching magnetic wall holder I'm making for these, then they're off to their final destination.
Thanks for looking!