Thrift Store Finds...

[SR69]

I came across a bucket full of old axes going for about $5.-$10. each.
I'm thinking about getting at least one of the big felling axes @ 36".

Is there anything I should look for besides obvious markings of makers?

I'm in rural West Virginia, so I'm hoping to come across some good vintage stuff.

 

[Square_peg]

Look for axes with long pointed toes. Also check the bit for grinder marks - the temper could be ruined. The older axes (pre-1960's/1970's) tend to have better steel. One good indicator is convex cheeks (sometimes called a high centerline). Another good indicator are ridges inside the eye. Those are usually good axes made by the major manufacturers, even if there's no stamp on the axe. Many of those were made for resale by hardware chains who applied their own paper labels to them.

 

[killa_concept]

Pretty much just geometry and lack of abuse (too rounded of a bit, grinder marks, too much of the bit removed, etc)

 

[cooperhill]

I look for axe patterns I like (or dislike - I dismiss Michigans immediately); I look for alignment, cracks, and any other potential issues;and then convex-ness in most axes (except Maine patterns).

 

[G-pig]

Mainer's often still have a high centerline Coop, just not as much of one due to the thickness of the wedge shape in itself regulating depth of cut.

 

[SR69]

Look for axes with long pointed toes. Also check the bit for grinder marks - the temper could be ruined. The older axes (pre-1960's/1970's) tend to have better steel. One good indicator is convex cheeks (sometimes called a high centerline). Another good indicator are ridges inside the eye. Those are usually good axes made by the major manufacturers, even if there's no stamp on the axe. Many of those were made for resale by hardware chains who applied their own paper labels to them.

Pretty much just geometry and lack of abuse (too rounded of a bit, grinder marks, too much of the bit removed, etc)

I look for axe patterns I like (or dislike - I dismiss Michigans immediately); I look for alignment, cracks, and any other potential issues;and then convex-ness in most axes (except Maine patterns).

Mainer's often still have a high centerline Coop, just not as much of one due to the thickness of the wedge shape in itself regulating depth of cut.

Thanks!

One looks like a "Rockaway" and the other like a standard "Wedge".
I believe the Rockaway is fastened with 2 circular steel wedges and
the other one has wood missing in the eye with no wedge visible.

I might be a few and practice my restoration skills and if I have keeper,
I'll give that one some extra special treatment and give the rest to my
family members that can use them.

Matter of fact, I'm going to check them out now.

 

[SR69]

Looks like a True Temper, a Plumb and maybe a Collins along with a few others that I can't get
a name on. Have at it. Axes $10.-$15. and handles $5. Let me know which are worth anything.

 

[Deoje]

I can't find stuff like that around here. Looks like a lot of fun work ahead of you.

 

[Square_peg]

Wow! Nice haul. Love the Plumb.

That 5th one - a Jersey - I think that's a Council. That next Jersey looks like a fine axe, too, just needs the rust removed. The 2nd double bit looks pretty worn. It might be a cruiser.

 

[bearhunter]

Hey, those are some nice finds, congrats

 

[SR69]

I can't find stuff like that around here. Looks like a lot of fun work ahead of you.

Yeah. More projects.

Wow! Nice haul. Love the Plumb.

That 5th one - a Jersey - I think that's a Council. That next Jersey looks like a fine axe, too, just needs the rust removed. The 2nd double bit looks pretty worn. It might be a cruiser.

Thanks. Going to pick them up tomorrow. I'll clean them up and re-handle the ones that need it and refurbish the decent handles. Then, when I get out into the sticks, I'll see what they're made of.

Hey, those are some nice finds, congrats

Thanks.

 

[SR69]

Questions:
What do you guys think about these handles for $5. a piece? Yay or nay? Worthy?
Or are there better alternatives quality-wise even if they cost more?

Also, I'm kind of a brute when I bring old tools back to life and just get to sanding off what's on top (rust, dirt, imperfections, etc...) and going down to bear metal. I've noticed some vintage axes that are more patinaed. I like that look and am thinking of going that route where I can get to a workable surface/substrate on the axe without bringing it back to a brilliant polish and just protect that stage of it while leaving the edges clean and open for sharpening.

Any advice?

[I'm not trying to be an axe collector, but today, I realized that I laid out 3 axes in size order just to stare at them (my Council, the Wetterlings and my Kobalt) and thought to myself, "Wow. I REALLY need a 36" felling axe and a double bit axe now." ]

 

[Deoje]

Try a wire brush in an angle grinder on the heads if you have one.

 

[gadgetgeek]

I'd just give them a good scrub to take off the loose rust, then hit them with something like fluid film or used engine oil to protect them until you can "clean" them up on some timber. Then they will patina with age and sap and the like. Nice looking find man!

 

[halfaxe]

I would buy those handles for $5. I've cleaned up a lot of axes and other old tools just with steel wool. It takes longer than with a wire wheel but it's about the cheapest way to do it.

 

[cooperhill]

love new old stock handles. i would.

 

[rwn2000]

Offer him $50 for the whole bucket, you never know till you ask.

 

[SR69]

Try a wire brush in an angle grinder on the heads if you have one.

Thanks. I think I'll take the "gentle" route. Do have one, but I think I'm going to use a Dremel to work out any nicks on the head and to get to the stubborn rust spots. I know that with some of them, there's going to be no life unless I take them down the the bare metal and start from scratch. I'll try to preserve the good ones as best I can and just clean up the edges to bare metal. This is definitely going to be more a learning process for me.

I'd just give them a good scrub to take off the loose rust, then hit them with something like fluid film or used engine oil to protect them until you can "clean" them up on some timber. Then they will patina with age and sap and the like. Nice looking find man!

Thanks G!

I would buy those handles for $5. I've cleaned up a lot of axes and other old tools just with steel wool. It takes longer than with a wire wheel but it's about the cheapest way to do it.

Thank you. I'll do that.

love new old stock handles. i would.

Definitely. That's why I had to ask. Sometimes, old stuff is good, sometimes it's not.
He has about a dozen brand new old stock handles that look all to be in excellent shape.
I'll do a more thorough inspection and maybe pick up a few more. Might as well take
advantage of the situation while I can.

Offer him $50 for the whole bucket, you never know till you ask.

Oh, I have that in mind for sure!

I think I can get 5 for $50. I might even barter with him a bit as I have some brand new power tools that
I have twins for so I won't need them. He'd definitely be able to sell the power tools far quicker than the
axes, so maybe we can work out a deal and I can unload some stuff I don't need.

 

[SR69]

This one here...would this be more for splitting or delimbing logs?

 

[bearhunter]

Yeah, I'd prolly buy the handles!