Through tang tips needed

Joined
Feb 17, 2006
Messages
64
I've been cussing and struggling with my first through tang puukko. I drilled holes close together, finally got some daylight. I've been filing and burning and using dynamite, and finally got a decent fit. This took me about 4 hours!

But there has to be a better way. Can anyone point me to a tutorial specifically dealing with getting a tang through a block of wood? Or, knifemaker tips, and/or pointers toward some tools that I can get or make would be appreciated.

rookie7 aka Phil Millam
LaConner, WA
 
Depending on the density of the wood and whether or not it's been stabilized, I think dynamite might be a bit weak. I'd go for some C4.
 
You ought to try drilling a stag crown for a threw tang. Wood is pretty simple. I'll hold the blade with the tang on the block of wood and then trace the tang onto the wood. Find the center of the block and mark top and bottom of the slot on both ends. I use my drill press and a cross vice. You can set the angle using the vice and the drill bit by lining the bit up with the tang tracing. Drill from both top and bottom. A rotary zip bit works great for cleaning out the slot.
 
Good info, Ray. I do a lot the same. I have various pcs. of large angle iron that I clamp blocks into to drill. I use long masonary bits with good luck. Roto-Zip bits in a Dremel tool are GREAT for slotting and cleaning!!

I think we all go thru the same learning process until we find what works. Good luck and keep at it!!
 
I've been cussing and struggling with my first through tang puukko. I drilled holes close together, finally got some daylight. I've been filing and burning and using dynamite, and finally got a decent fit. This took me about 4 hours!

But there has to be a better way. Can anyone point me to a tutorial specifically dealing with getting a tang through a block of wood? Or, knifemaker tips, and/or pointers toward some tools that I can get or make would be appreciated.

rookie7 aka Phil Millam
LaConner, WA


There is a tool you can make to make the hole you drill wider without making a huge cavity like if you just used a larger drill. Get a round rasp and grind a flat on two sides of it. There will only be teeth on the top and bottom cutting faces of the rasp. Clamp the handle end of the rasp in your vice and slide the block over the rasp. Move this back and forth and you turn your hole into a wider slot.You can do this with a round file also.


As far as drilling the hole, Use a drill press. There is a method where you drill an indentation into the bottom of the material where you want the hole to come out. You mount a locator pin (the same dia as your drill bit) on your drill press table and line it up to the point of your drill bit. Use this to locate the block using the indentation you made. Drill from the top as far as the drill will go. Flip the block over place your drilled hole on the locator pin and drill into the indentation the holes will meet perfectly every time.
 
I am new to this site and am unshure how to start my own thread. that being said I hope someone can help me with my problem(s)
I need to find out what kind of epoxy to use for the making of mozaic pins.
I have tried fiberglass resin and it does not yeild satisfactory resaults. PLEASE HELP.
 
Ciphery GO to Wallyworld and get some 30 minute epoxy .colorant can be added to it. It will give you time to make sure everything is together properly.
 
Thanks all, I'll give those ideas a try. Not the C4, which I used to burn to warm up C-Rats.

Rookie7
 
ciphery -
Welcome to the forum.
We try not to change the subject on the threads that are already started. The info you want on the epoxy was answered at:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454445
Instructions for posting new threads are at the same place.

Since you have blocked emails ,no one could send you this info except to stick it in these other threads.
Start a new thread for unrelated questions.

Once again - Welcome.
Stacy

Sorry, Rookie7 for the hijack. - Stacy
 
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