Thrower a good start?

gga357

gga357

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I have been reading through out the site and have learned quite a bit. I have installed a few handles on some finished knife blanks. All went well.

Anyway I want to go to the next level, but small steps. I was going to buy a few simple throwers like from CS. I figured I could make some. From my reading, buying (from maker here), and using I like 5160, W2, 1095/1084. I was thinking about buying about 12' of 3/16 x 1 1/2. Profiles seem easy enough plus a simple beveled edge.

Now finally to the question. How should I heat treat? Can I leave them at a high RC or do they need to be tempered to say a low 50's or high 40's? Are the above steels too high in carbon? Thinking about 6-8 12" throwers. Then either saving for a used HT kiln/oven or looking at sending out for HT.

I'll welcome any comments. Consider me a beginner so all advice is appreciated. I have oxy/acet torch & access to any of the "hobby" small torches. Also have most tools (wood working, construction, basic mechanic tools).

Thanks,
Greg
 
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i would think with a thrower you want the kind of hardness that you would normally put on the spine of a differentially hardened blade. I'm not exactly sure what that is...maybe mid to low 50's?

Nothing would hurt more than watching your brand new thrower miss its target and hit a rock, and watch it almost shatter.
 
Emphasiski said:
i would think with a thrower you want the kind of hardness that you would normally put on the spine of a differentially hardened blade. I'm not exactly sure what that is...maybe mid to low 50's?

Nothing would hurt more than watching your brand new thrower miss its target and hit a rock, and watch it almost shatter.
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Agreed. I looked up specs for springs in the low RC 40's and wonder if that is too low.
 
gga357 said:
Agreed. I looked up specs for springs in the low RC 40's and wonder if that is too low.
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That might be too low. Kelly Cupple's 1080 that I use is HR [not annealed] and he keeps it at about 35...and it is VERY VERY workable.
 
Emphasiski said:
Nothing would hurt more than watching your brand new thrower miss its target and hit a rock, and watch it almost shatter.
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Sure there is, watching it miss and never finding it when you go looking for it. Knowing that somewhere deep in the woods is you knife, rusting, covered in deer urine, is heart breaking. I looked for two years for that knife and never did find it. Hopefully some hunter found it later that season and kept it.
 
I would recommend 5160, or 1080, and shoot for a low 50's Rc.

With 5160 or 1080, and on a thrower, the HT is fairly simple. You only need to HT the point and about 3" up the blade . Heat it with a torch until it becomes non-magnetic ( the tip part), and try to heat it a shade redder ( about 100F hotter). Hold it at that temper for a minute if possible, and quench in canola oil. Temper in the kitchen oven at 500F for one hour, cool to room temp, and temper again. It will be hard to be sure, but this should get the tip at about Rc 54-55. The rest will be much softer ( which is good).
 
Either would not be good.

From a text book prospective it seems that 5160 would be the "toughest" there for appropriate for a thrower. Any of these can be tempered to around 50, but none of the spec sheets say "this is the range for a thrower that you might also want to have a decent edge". What I like about 5160 and 1095 is the availability and low price.
(Again this is my "text book" info not experience)
 
Thanks Stacy. I must have been typing while you were posting.

If anyone has any influence on those spec sheets, have them add a "thrower" zone. ;)
 
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So far, I've only worked with 1080, and that stuff grows rust extremely easily.

I finished grinding, and sanding a blank the other day, didn't dry it off after it's last dip, went in for dinner...and when I came back outside the entire blank had a nice orange tint to it. If it wasn't so easy to heat treat, I would work with SS.
 
I made quite a few "throwers" for black powder competions , The point of balance should be in the middle of the blade literaly. So half of the length and at a point there of half the wideth. A length about 12"to 14" long and a very spear point head of say 2 1/2" to 3" widein 3/16 or 1/4" stock. The handle may end up being 3/4" to 1" wide and 3" long. These were always thrown by holding the handle. A friend of mine named Harald Moeller went into producton on a similar but very stylized and finished version in 3 sizes I believe. They were made by Viper knives. Frank
 
Emphasiski said:
So far, I've only worked with 1080, and that stuff grows rust extremely easily.

I finished grinding, and sanding a blank the other day, didn't dry it off after it's last dip, went in for dinner...and when I came back outside the entire blank had a nice orange tint to it. If it wasn't so easy to heat treat, I would work with SS.
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I was thinking of cold blueing them. Thanks for the input.
 
Frank Niro said:
I made quite a few "throwers" for black powder competions , The point of balance should be in the middle of the blade literaly. So half of the length and at a point there of half the wideth. A length about 12"to 14" long and a very spear point head of say 2 1/2" to 3" widein 3/16 or 1/4" stock. The handle may end up being 3/4" to 1" wide and 3" long. These were always thrown by holding the handle. A friend of mine named Harald Moeller went into producton on a similar but very stylized and finished version in 3 sizes I believe. They were made by Viper knives. Frank
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Wow 14"x3"x1/4" times 6 or 8. Thats not peanuts. Maybe I will go 12"x2"x3/16". I suppose if I plan on having extra 1/4" would be a better way to go. I will mock some up on cardboard.

Seems like some that I have are more point heavy I will find their center and see what I find. Thanks.
 
I'm not a knife maker and know nothing about the process. But I have to ask, why even heat treat a throwing knife? It's not like it will be used for any cutting, just throwing and sticking.
Will a non-heat treated knife be destroyed by throwing? Just wondering. Not trying to give any advice.
Thanks
-Chris
 
ac1d0v3r1d3 said:
I'm not a knife maker and know nothing about the process. But I have to ask, why even heat treat a throwing knife? It's not like it will be used for any cutting, just throwing and sticking.
Will a non-heat treated knife be destroyed by throwing? Just wondering. Not trying to give any advice.
Thanks
-Chris
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The blind leading the blind here, but I think it would bend and dent somewhat. I would like to have edge holding ability to a degree.
 
You want enough spring that it won't bend or the tip won't just be flattened if you miss or it bounces back. I agree with what bladsmth said. Depending on the blade style you want the edge comes second.
 
Blackfeather said:
You want enough spring that it won't bend or the tip won't just be flattened if you miss or it bounces back. I agree with what bladsmth said. Depending on the blade style you want the edge comes second.
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Even an Rc of 54 should give me a decent edge, right?
 
I believe the 3/16" should work well for you. By the way, if you ever find the material and meayhod to keep handle scales on , please post it. A few bad throws with the handle hitting and they will be g o n e. Frank
 
i use cord wrapped handles.
nothing to break off and when they wear out from missed throws, i can tie on another handle.
i also coat in superglue to lock the knots in place. otherwise any cord wrap will loosen over time.
 
Frank Niro said:
I believe the 3/16" should work well for you. By the way, if you ever find the material and meayhod to keep handle scales on , please post it. A few bad throws with the handle hitting and they will be g o n e. Frank
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I was thinking of either wrapping (with glue or epoxy as edgemaster suggests) them or maybe dipping them in tool grip rubber.
 
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